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Hello all,
Just completed a re-plumb of the galley sink on my 2005 348. Frankly I was tired of cleaning the filter of food from the sump. In addition when the pump cycled it didnt completely empty the discharge line and some water would drain back and cycle the pump on again within a few minutes. I fixed that by inserting an in-line brass check valve.
The replumb went well from under the galley sink. My boat is on the hard so it was a bit easier to core drill the hull. Word of caution. I matched the core drill height above waterline to match the head sink drain which is about 8-10 inches above water. This puts the drain line under the galley sink pretty flat with just enough fall to drain well. I squeezed under the cabinet and drilled a 1/16 inch pilot hole first to verify it's location outside careful not to hit a chine. I used a 1 inch stainless thru hull with a backing nut. Siliconed the outside flange and again siliconed the threads and the mating surface of the backing nut on the inside before tightening. This helps to keep the nut from backing off.
Wah La no more food in the sump filter.

Nice! I've done this as well...hoping you didn't use silicone but a marine sealant such as BoatLife LifeCalk or something similar. When I did mine, I epoxied the core and let it fully cure before installing the new thru hull. You can't be to careful when it comes to ensuring the wood core stays dry.

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2007 358 T-5.7GXi IB
Previous Boats
'08 H240, '08 V318, '04 268, '04 225

I have to tackle this job someday as well. I have that fear that most have drilling holes in the hull.
How did you measure where the hole would line up? Did you use a window as reference or something?

I replaced my sump box with a whale sump box which has helped. It's a larger box and has a diaphragm pump which is WAY better than a traditional bilge pump. It won't clog as easy with hair or food. The float switches are hit or miss across the board I hear. This one has a no moving parts type of switch and so far 2 seasons has worked fine. It also has a delay shutoff so it will pump a little longer so you don't get that back flow. It also can be run dry without an issue. I installed a 3 way inline switch next to the box just in case it gets stuck on or to drain the box completely before we leave for a while.

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--2002 3880 Regal Flybridge | Twin Merc 8.1HO **Seven**
--2003 AB 13 VST Console Inflatable | Tohatsu 40hp TLDI **Phish'n ski**
--310 Mercury Inflatable | 1982 9.9 Johnson

Both times I've done this, I taped a heavy duty magnet inside the hull, where I thought it would work best and matched it up to a magnet on the outside of the boat. After that - get the outside situated where it's aesthetically pleasing, match up the inside and ensure it works. Use a hole saw and go! As always with drilling into gelcoat, I cover the area with painters tape and start drilling in reverse to prevent chipping.

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2007 358 T-5.7GXi IB
Previous Boats
'08 H240, '08 V318, '04 268, '04 225

Great tips all Thanks!