www.iFourWinns.com

I have a length of chain that came with my windlass setup... It's a fair amount, but not alot by any means...

Does anyone know?:

--How much chain they put on at the factory?
--What size is this chain? (How do you measure chain? I have no clue)

If a guy is selling 100 feet of anchor chain super cheap... is it worth picking up?

Anchoring is not my forte' by any means... I'm a newbie.

Advice? The more chain the better? Do I have 1/2'' chain?

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2008 318 Vista -SOLD, but I am still around!
All Night Long, Seattle WA

I have been anchoring in the Columbia for years in all kinds of current. I can tell you that the more chain you have the better you will hold.

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2000 268 Vista "Reely Nauti"
http://www.facebook.com/#!/rivercruiser

I have heard that the ideal is a 7 to 1 ratio (line out vs depth).

Alot of times, we anchor in 40-50 feet of water or more - but there's not alot of current in the lakes area.

I haven't gained much ground in figuring out what the boat came with - but it looks to be about 20-30 feet of chain with another 100 or so of rope. I do know that if I add anything - it will be chain.

I just have to figure out how to connect lengths of chain in a way that won't affect the windlass as well as what size of chain to use...

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2008 318 Vista -SOLD, but I am still around!
All Night Long, Seattle WA

if you have 50' of chain and 100' of rope you should be fine in a lake. If you were in the sound and had to deal with tidal current or on a river I would suggest another 200' of rope. This is supposed to be the new super anchor, they say it will hold in heavy current with a heavy boat.

http://www.slideanchor.com/Hlm_ShopIT_P ... e749bb8688

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2000 268 Vista "Reely Nauti"
http://www.facebook.com/#!/rivercruiser

Here is the way to add chain. I think I found this on here somewhere http://www.bosunsupplies.com/products2.cfm?product=S0460

I think you have 5/16" chain on your boat. You measure chain by the diameter of the material that forms each link. I know a guy that has an older 34 regal and he has all chain for his anchor rhode . Talk about hauling some weight around.

I didnt have any chain on our boat when we bought it, and only the 14 lb delta anchor. Had alot of trouble holding the boat in any kind of waves or current on the bay. I moved up one size anchor (22 lb Delta I think) and put a new anchor rhode with 20-25 ft of 1/4" chain. Wow did that make a world of difference.

My opinion is if you had 20' - 50' of chain, and the rest rope you will be in good shape.

Also not all chain is created equal, the windlasses need a specific grade of chain to fit the gypsy.

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Jeff

'14 Cruisers 380 Express "Simon Sez"
Merc 8.2 Mag MPI 380
DTS B3X, (x2) Axius Premier


(SOLD)
'08 V318
Merc 350 Mag MPI 300
DTS Seacore, B3 (x2)

Here's some basic info that I looked up when I purchased my 288
http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/34.htm

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You can't have everything...where would you put it?
Crownline 285 SS
288 V -- sold
278 V -- sold
268 V -- sold
245 S -- sold
214 F -- sold
190 H -- sold

according to the online parts catalogue, a 2007 318, has a 25 lb anchor, 150 feet of 1/2 inch line and 30 feet of 1/4 inch chain. They don't list 2008 or 09 yet.

I have this combo on my boat and have no issues with anchoring. But it all depends on what the bottom looks like, how deep you anchor, and how much wind and waves. I suggest you talk to other local boaters and get advice before changing.

The general rule has been a boat length of chain. If you go all chain, you should ask Four Winns how the boat will ride with that much extra weight in the bow. Plus make such that the chain is approved by your windlass vendor. Not all 1/4 chain is the same shape and it must be compatible with windlass.

If you plan to leave your boat while it is at anchor or sleep over night, make sure you set it well and have at least seven times the water depth of line let out. If you just want to sit for a while and have lunch or swim, you can use less. Just keep a good watch. Obviously you must adapt these rules of thumb to the local conditions.

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2008 V358 Two-tone Blue V/P Dual Prop 320 HP
Lake Winnipesaukee, NH

Thanks for the info everyone.

That's about what I thought I had - I'm just not very knowledgeable in that area.

My local boaters say "get as much chain as you can". Alot of our lake bottoms are just flat with dirt/rock -- tough to set an anchor. No soft stuff or anything to "bite" on.

That's where the chain seems to come in handy.

I'm not running out and buying a bunch of chain anytime soon - I'm just looking for the right situation when something comes through Craigslist or when I find myself needing to upgrade.

We shall see.

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2008 318 Vista -SOLD, but I am still around!
All Night Long, Seattle WA

And one small detail to add when you're calculating your scope... be sure to include the distance of the water line to your bow as part of your depth.

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Previously:
2008 V358/Volvo 5.7 GXi Inboards

I think most of you guys are putting too much thought into it... 7:1 is a text book scope number. Most of you anchor in lakes, how much current do you have??? I anchor on a locked river, current can swing from near zero (locks and damns stopped down) to 3-5Knts when the gates are opened. I've never used a 7:1 scope, I am in 18-37 foot of water and I have never not had the anchor hold. I have the factory package I beleive it's a #15 Davis, 20' G4 Chain and 150 or 200' of 8 plait 1/2"

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Brett DiMichele

In our Power Squadron Boating class, 5:1 is fine for the day and most conditions, 7:1 with a good current or overnighting. 10:1 in bad weather.

You don't need all chain for your boat. That is way overkill. All the chain does is provide weight to the line so the pull on the anchor is horizontal to the bottom assuring the anchor bites well. Factors you need to consider:

1. Bottom type: Select the best anchor for the bottom you usually anchor in. If you notice, many trawlers and blow boats carry two and even three types of anchors off the bow. They want to have the best holding power in the bottom they are over. Bruce, Plow, Danforth all work best with different bottoms. My plow works well in the sandy bottom I anchor in, but even better is a danforth.

2. Use sufficient scope.

3. Snub the anchor properly to assure it sets well. Most of the time an anchor drifts is because the boater didn't snub it well. Determine before you anchor how much rode you plan to leave out. Move to the spot the anchor will be on the bottom. Drop the anchor to the bottom and very slowly back away leaving rode out as you do. Once you have let out about 1/3 of the rode, stop, secure the rode and let the momentum of the boat pull on the anchor pulling it in to the substrate (snub it). Then begin moving away again leaving out the remaining amount you intended.

A few other items... make sure that the dealer secured the bitter end of your anchor rode. That could be a surprise that you don't need! It can be one of those little details that are missed! In addition, make sure you wire your anchor shackles. They often will come undone if not secured with a wire.

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Jvalich
http://www.badcock.com

'04 FW 288 Vista "Mental Floss"

Mental Floss has got it right. Snubbing is quite important. We anchor in Lake Michigan (sandy bottom), generally backing towards the beach. If you don't have a good set and conditions change (which they regularly do for us), you could be scrambling from the beach if she drags. It's not unusual for us to drop anchor on glass calm water mid morning only to see it go to 3-4 footers by late afternoon. My 298 did not have much chain when I got it (10') so I added an additional 25 using the same type of link Jeff (jsimon) referred to. That made the difference from taking multiple tries to hooking first time every time for me. I did notice that West Marine's connecting links have a higher working load than the ones on Bo'suns Supply but Bo'suns "Hammerlocks" are stronger yet.

The important thing is getting the same size as the chain you have AND insuring it has enough strength for your boat in the worst conditions you expect you might be in. You don't want it to break when you need it most. Remember the "weakest link" theory. That type of link was the strongest I could find that would still go through my windlass. Be sure when you peen the "rivets" you really get them mashed good. A set of vise grips will hold the two halves together tightly while you peen them but you will need some sort of makeshift anvil to hit against. Being that you're in the water already, that will mean dragging something to the dock.

If the weak link issue will make you stay up all night on anchor watch, the best method is to replace the chain completely vs. adding. That will involve rebraiding the line so it will pass through the windlass. If you have a multi-braid rode vs. a 3 strand, that could be a complicated issue and probably a job for your local rigging shop or sail loft.

West Marine has a good guide in their catalog right at the anchor section on rode & chain length, scope, etc.

Happy boating!