www.iFourWinns.com

I would like to know what some of you guys are doing to protect the hull when some mooring lines (mainly ''springs'') are gently and steadily rubbing, consequently fading the gelcoat and leaving marks...Is there somekind of sleeve to put over it? Any previous topic on that???

Tks

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Dan
2008 V318 5.7 Gi
KAMARIA

Hi Dan -

I use these on all of my lines where they would otherwise come into contact with the hull and they have served me well.

Cheers!

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Previously:
2008 V358/Volvo 5.7 GXi Inboards

I've seen various ways to deal with line chafing. I use a section of bimini pole cover on my spring line. This being the line from the port aft transom cleat running forward to an amidships piling. I've got about a 28" 'sleeve' of it around the line. The outside of the covers are sort of fleece-like. This keeps the line from rubbing the side of the hull. It's worked nicely for the past three seasons. I can't recall the brand name of them, sunsox maybe? They're designed to keep the hot metal bimini poles from scorching the clear vinyl panels on the canvas.

Most of the time line chafing is more about the line rather than the surfaces on which it rubs. If the line is rubbing against something rough then it'll eventually break. One poor mans line guard is a section of garden hose. Run the line through it and then use a short bit of string to tie the hose to the line. This will keep it in position on the line. Marine stores sell chafe guards that are more or less the same thing, just without the redneck look.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

Thanks for the info... by the way Sierra i intend to sail past where you probably live this summer since we are preparing a trip from the St-Lawrence river to New York via the Hudson...

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Dan
2008 V318 5.7 Gi
KAMARIA

Wow! That is quite a trip. Is your home port on the St Lawrence? I bought my last Sea Ray in Alex Bay and did the shake down on the river. It is beautiful - and I'm very jealous of how clear it is. As you are planning your trip, please reach out to me for any info you may want on running The Hudson.

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Previously:
2008 V358/Volvo 5.7 GXi Inboards

Dont want to hijack a thread, but it is along the same subject, so I thought I would include it here.

I am always looking how others tie their boat up, thinking I might find a better way than I am currently doing it.

I am curious though how lines can rub on the side of the boat. Granted every where I dock there is no tide change and maybe that alone is the difference. I put together a crude drawing of how I tie up as to not have to use fenders at the marina, and bump into the dock all night. How does this compare to you guys?

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Jeff

'14 Cruisers 380 Express "Simon Sez"
Merc 8.2 Mag MPI 380
DTS B3X, (x2) Axius Premier


(SOLD)
'08 V318
Merc 350 Mag MPI 300
DTS Seacore, B3 (x2)

that is the same way I do it when I slip. With tide changes too

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Walter

2003 248 Vista - VP 5.0 GXi
2009 Toyota Tundra SR5 5.7L 4x4

It'd certainly work on a floating dock. And it'd likely never be a problem unless you got into at least 4' or more tidal change.

You always want things tied such that you never end up with the boat's weight 'hanging' from the cleats. I use variation of that setup. I cross the stern lines. I also run my spring line from the port rear cleat forward to a piling on the port side finger pier. The crossed stern lines give a 'scissors action' to the rise and fall of the boat during tidal changes. This allows the boat to move forward and backward slightly in the slip. Tying 'directly' like in your diagram doesn't leave quite as much room for movement.

I also use a couple of rubber line snubbers on the bow lines. These keep the lines relatively taut in normal situations while leaving about another 2' of stretch for extreme tides. We get occasional 'blow out tides' that can drop the tide as much as 3' lower than usual. It doesn't happen often. But the snubbers save me from having to make a special trip to the boat to readjust the lines.

What's also different is I don't have a lot of clearance on my width. There's really no more than about 12" of room on either side. So I have to make sure to have enough forward/backward movement without much side to side. This is why my port side spring line needs to have a cover over it to prevent chafing against the hull. I could avoid this by using a spring line from the port side amidships and then to a pole off the bow. But this would mean having a much longer line left on the port bow piling. It'd naturally fall in the water too often and end up getting slimy, which would make for more cleanup work for me.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

As you see, I bow in...


The boat is not tied off the starboard side at all so there is nothing to keep it off the dock other than fenders (which all have covers). All of the lines are subject to rubbing the fiberglass depending on how the wind/current is affecting the boat which is why I use the protectors. In addition to the bow and the spring lines, there is a stern line coming off the starboard side that you can't see in this shot.

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Previously:
2008 V358/Volvo 5.7 GXi Inboards