www.iFourWinns.com :: View topic - Toilet priming woes

Standard 248 toilet. Is there some trick I don't know about to get this thing primed? I did as the manual stated: flipped the lever to "WET" and pumped the handle. No water ... just the sound of air being pulled up. There is a "Toilet" electric switch on the vanity next the "Light" switch. I flip it on/off ... doesn't seem to make a difference. What is this switch for and what's the trick to get the toilet to work?

Craig C.

The switch is for the vaccuflush unit if your boat is so equipped, mine like yours is not therefore the switch does nothing.

Sounds like your pump needs some TLC. You can get a rebuild kit for your pump from West Marine, or you can just replace the pump. I think the pump was like 90.00 last time I did it, and it takes about 10-15 minutes to change.

I'm going to guess he doesn't have that sea cock on his boat. The reason is that he claimed to have two water inlets on his boat. I'm guessing one of those is going to where they gray water tank is and that his toilet pulls the water from there.

Let us know Craig.

How much is the Jabsco rebuild kit? I have never done it but from memory remember folks saying it is about 4 screws that need to come out.

Author:	mcraigchr [ Tue Jun 30, 2009 7:41 am ]
Post subject:	Toilet priming woes
Standard 248 toilet. Is there some trick I don't know about to get this thing primed? I did as the manual stated: flipped the lever to "WET" and pumped the handle. No water ... just the sound of air being pulled up. There is a "Toilet" electric switch on the vanity next the "Light" switch. I flip it on/off ... doesn't seem to make a difference. What is this switch for and what's the trick to get the toilet to work? Craig C.

Author:	jsimon [ Tue Jun 30, 2009 8:05 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Toilet priming woes
mcraigchr wrote: Standard 248 toilet. Is there some trick I don't know about to get this thing primed? I did as the manual stated: flipped the lever to "WET" and pumped the handle. No water ... just the sound of air being pulled up. There is a "Toilet" electric switch on the vanity next the "Light" switch. I flip it on/off ... doesn't seem to make a difference. What is this switch for and what's the trick to get the toilet to work? Craig C. The switch is for the vaccuflush unit if your boat is so equipped, mine like yours is not therefore the switch does nothing. Sounds like your pump needs some TLC. You can get a rebuild kit for your pump from West Marine, or you can just replace the pump. I think the pump was like 90.00 last time I did it, and it takes about 10-15 minutes to change.

Author:	mcraigchr [ Tue Jun 30, 2009 8:26 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Toilet priming woes
jsimon wrote: The switch is for the vaccuflush unit if your boat is so equipped, mine like yours is not therefore the switch does nothing. Sounds like your pump needs some TLC. You can get a rebuild kit for your pump from West Marine, or you can just replace the pump. I think the pump was like 90.00 last time I did it, and it takes about 10-15 minutes to change. This might sound overly simplified ... but could the seacock valve be shut? Does the toilet have it's own seacock? If so, where is it? I'd like to check that before opting for the new pump. Craig C.

Author:	jsimon [ Tue Jun 30, 2009 8:30 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Toilet priming woes
Good call, I always like to start with the easiest things first and totally blew it on that one. The sea-cock for the toilet is tagged in the bilge on the starboard side between the stringer and the "shelf" area. Definalty start with that, before the whole pump thing.

Author:	sniper222 [ Tue Jun 30, 2009 9:57 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Toilet priming woes
As was mentioned the seacock is on the starboard side, the only one in area. Just had to replace my valve as it wouldn't pull water in but would push it down if I added from faucet. If all else fails, I found it easier to replace the whole unit (assuming it is manual) than rebuild the valve. At this time, a whole new Jabsco toilet (standard on 248) is available at West Marine for $119, at that price, not worth rebuilding. Replacing is simple, a couple hose clamps, 4 screws and its out and repeat going back in. Only headache, had to reverse everything on new toilet, but that is simple and only takes 10 mins. As far as your switch, it is probably a macerator that is disabled if you are using on inland waters.

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Author:	captwalt [ Tue Jun 30, 2009 10:04 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Toilet priming woes
I'm going to guess he doesn't have that sea cock on his boat. The reason is that he claimed to have two water inlets on his boat. I'm guessing one of those is going to where they gray water tank is and that his toilet pulls the water from there. Let us know Craig. How much is the Jabsco rebuild kit? I have never done it but from memory remember folks saying it is about 4 screws that need to come out.

Author:	mcraigchr [ Tue Jun 30, 2009 10:11 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Toilet priming woes
captwalt wrote: I'm going to guess he doesn't have that sea cock on his boat. The reason is that he claimed to have two water inlets on his boat. I'm guessing one of those is going to where they gray water tank is and that his toilet pulls the water from there. Let us know Craig. How much is the Jabsco rebuild kit? I have never done it but from memory remember folks saying it is about 4 screws that need to come out. I think you're probably correct. After browsing the Four Winns website, I think it's entirely possible that what I thought was my gray water tank, is actually the fresh water supply tank for the toilet. I'll know for sure when I can get the toilet to prime. Assuming that I have a fresh water toilet, is there a valve? If there is, I'd like to check before purchasing a rebuild kit or new toilet pump. Craig C.

Author:	Choices II [ Tue Jun 30, 2009 10:26 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Toilet priming woes
This is a normal thing on our boat, I rebuilt it and it maybe helped for a little while, but still have to prime it from time to time. Do this: Where you have the "wet" and empty switch you are talking about, pull the top tube off. It's about a 1 inch tube and should slide right off. Then work the pump in the "wet" mode. While you do this cover the male end you took the hose off of with your hand when you do the up motion (I believe, possibly could be down) so you create a vacuum. You will feel it sucking and after about 3 or 4 pumps, water will come out that end when you remove your hand. Put the hose back on and you are done. Quick and easy. I think in the process of not using it a lot and pulling the boat out of the water it gets air locked. Also, are you guys sure his head pulls from the fresh water tank??? I am under the impression the manual head pulls from sea water and the discharges into black water tank. Vacuflush pulls from freshwater I thought, but not the manual.....I could be wrong though.

Author:	captwalt [ Tue Jun 30, 2009 11:06 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Toilet priming woes
I'm pretty sure about. Also there is a chance he may have had an electric unit in there before since he stated previously he has a toilet switch in the head.

Author:	Choices II [ Tue Jun 30, 2009 11:11 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Toilet priming woes
I also have the toilet switch in my head. It's wired because when I turn it on the light comes on. But it does nothing.

Author:	captwalt [ Tue Jun 30, 2009 11:12 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Toilet priming woes
Do you also have 2 others, the lights and overboard discharge?

Author:	Choices II [ Tue Jun 30, 2009 11:40 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Toilet priming woes
Lights, yes. Overboard discharge, no. Inland water set-up

Author:	sniper222 [ Tue Jun 30, 2009 12:54 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Toilet priming woes
From what I can remember the standard toilet is manual and will pull from overboard not from the freshwater tank and empty into the blackwater tank. I suppose it could have been modified for something else since the freshwater tank is 15 gallons, I think, the toilet would use a lot of valuable fresh water. Mine is setup to pull from overboard vs grey water tank. The 248 head has 2 switches standard. 1 for the lights and the other is intended for a macerator/overboard discharge which is generally not installed or active when setup for freshwater use, therefore it is a dummy switch and does nothing. The rebuild kit is about $60-70. I also had a crack in the pump so $120 for a new vs just a rebuild kit was easier for me.

Author:	mcraigchr [ Tue Jun 30, 2009 10:24 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Toilet priming woes
captwalt wrote: I'm going to guess he doesn't have that sea cock on his boat. The reason is that he claimed to have two water inlets on his boat. I'm guessing one of those is going to where they gray water tank is and that his toilet pulls the water from there. Let us know Craig. How much is the Jabsco rebuild kit? I have never done it but from memory remember folks saying it is about 4 screws that need to come out. Found where the air was leaking into the pump. Took the pump apart and headed up to WM to get a rebuild kit. It was $69. Sitting next to it was an updated version of my whole toilet for $99. I bought the toilet and installed it. And yes ... what I thought to be the gray water tank is a fresh water tank for the toilet. Thanks for all your help. Craig C.

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Author:	captwalt [ Tue Jun 30, 2009 11:37 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Toilet priming woes
Cool! How much work was the swap out?