www.iFourWinns.com

I've got some 2003 268 vista questions after all of 4 days owning this boat. I've been through the manual and wondered about the following:

1. In the head, I've got two water tank level gauges. This weekend I pumped out the holding tank and filled the water supply. The left gauge has buttons for "holding tank" (when I push this, the level lights show 'full') and "fresh water" (when I push this, the level lights show 'empty'). The right gauge only has a 'holding tank' button--when I push this, the level lights show 'empty'. My uneducated guess is that the left gauge is showing fresh water (when I push the 'holding tank' button), and the right gauge is showing holding tank--either that, or the gauges are screwed up. Any idea how this should work?

2. On the port side near stern, my 268 has two water inputs--I checked in the engine compartment, and one of the water inputs goes nowhere (the hose is cut off)--is this factory error that I've got two of these?? (waste is on starboard side).

3. When I leave the boat (it will be mainly unvisited m-f), I've been leaving the "Shore Main" (which is connected to a "Reverse Polarity" breaker) and "Charger/Refrigerator" breakers on, I've got the battery charger dial set to "On", and the "Ship Systems" breaker by the battery charger dial set to on. Is this right? Do you recommend something different? Is it better on the batteries/etc. if I shut everything down and set these things in a different way while I'm away from the boat.

4. I turned the heater on the other day at the marina to test it, and got warm-ish air out of the vents (at best). I didn't leave it on very long, so it may be that it didn't heat up yet. Does the heater get very warm?

5. Is it normal to want to live on your boat when you first get it, because you can't bear to be away from it (first boat ever), and be willing to leave work and family behind temporarily to do this????????

I can't say these will be my only questions, but that's all for now. Thanks!
Jeff

On the tank monitors, which brand is it? Fireboy/Xintex? If so, they probably will never work well. Holding tank will definitely not, water tank, maybe sometimes. These are terrible! Best option is to replace it with something that works. That's what I did on our 328. See http://www.boatingabc.com/ubb/ultimateb ... tml#000000

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2014 Vista V435
2011 Glastron GT180
2013 Sea Doo RXT-260

My 258 has two water inputs as well. One city water and one that I think is an engine flush although I haven't tried it as yet or followed it into the engine compartment.

as far as shore power goes, I leave mine the same way you describe. and on a side note I always shut the water supply off at the dock

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1995 258 Vista

1. If it's a Fireboy/Xintex, it simply won't be reliable. Short answer...they suck!

2. If ther are connections consisting of a standard 3/4" hose thread, one should be for the potable water on board rather than using water out of your storage tank. The other was probably a flush kit that was taken out of service for some reason.

3. The Shore main is not a reverse polarity breaker, that's just a warning light. Best to leave the shore power on with the batt/ref on to keep your batteries charged. If they are deep cycle, they last the longest if kept fully charged. If they are stored not fully charged they will sulfonate regucing their capacity and life. Monthly check the electrolyte level. As to the Battery selector switch setting, this should be independent of the battery charger charging the batteries.

4. Chances are the A/C unit is actially a heat pump. It will warm the cabin quite nicely. They don't ever blow "hot" air.

5. Yes, welcome to boating!

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Jvalich
http://www.badcock.com

'04 FW 288 Vista "Mental Floss"

Thanks for the replies. I'm looking at switching to a Snake River monitoring setup--looks nice and more functional!

Another question--about shower sump location. There are two access panels--one right in front of the aft cabin in the center of the boat, which has four screws. Opens to a holding are with a pump in the middle. I thought this was the forward bilge, and not the shower sump.

There's another access panel in the hanging closet that I can't fully get to--is that where the shower sump is located, or is the shower sump actually the first one I describe above?

I was trying to clean the screens for the shower sump (as the manual suggests), and I opened the middle access panel, and cleaned out the area, but didn't find any screen. I also wasn't able to reach under and find where the shower line fed into that center area, which made me think the shower sump was something different (under the access panel in the hanging clost). I haven't found a way to easily remove the access panel yet in the closet, so don't know what's under there yet. Thanks

Jeff

Jeff the sump for the shower is in the hanging locker. you need to remove the side trim pieces to get the floor piece out. Once that is done the sump is easy to get to.

Jeff

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JPEloian
2000 268 Vista

Thanks Jeff

Jeffery:

I have a 2000 268 that I have owned for 1 season. The replies to your questions from the others are correct. One thing I can tell you to look for is a problem with the forward bilge pump discharge hose as well as the shower sump discharge hose. My surveyor didn't catch this. I don't know if this is inherent to all 268's but I have read it on other forums. Anyway, the thru-the-hulls for both the shower sump pump and forward bilge pump are located behind the hanging locker. Apparently when the hanging locker was installed at the factory, it pushed against the looped portion of both discharge hoses and kinked them over because it is very tight betwwen the back of the closet and the hull side. They may work initially, but after time, the hose collapses and becomes blocked. Therefore, both pumps will run but not discharge and eventually burn out. I found this on my boat before I put it in the water this past spring. The solution I found: It was too hard to remove the hanging closet in entirity (it is put together very well). I cut an access hole (about 7"x7") in the back wall of the locker so I could get to the hoses. I then ran 2 new hoses from both pumps to the thru-the-hulls. I secured both hose loops up with wire ties so that they would not again crimp over. I then covered the opening in the locker with a piece of marine board secured with SS screws. A lot of work but obviously needed as you could have major problems if both pumps are not operating. I suggest checking operation of both by 1)running the shower and 2) opening up the bilge access panel on the cabin floor and putting a few gallons of water in the bilge and manually running the forward bilge pump. Check and make sure they discharge. If they work you are probably good but if you want to check the discharge hoses behind the locker, you can also do so without cutting a hole in the back of the locker by removing the long, narrow access panel in the ceiling of the aft cabin under the helm. You can they get your head up there (watch out for fiberglass shards) and look forward over the bulkhead and down behind the locker. Otherwise, our 2000 runs great and we reall enjoy it. Good Luck!

Thanks aquamak! I'll check this tomorrow. Sounds like an excellent solution to this problem. Jeff

Great post aquamak ! I have a 2000 268 as well, and have not had a problem yet, but I will check it now. Thanks for the great info.

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One of 4 Previous (Sold) Boats:
2000 Four Winns 268 Vista

Current Boat: 2004 Chaparral 235 ssi cuddy

Well--checked the shower sump and figured out that it is not working. Looks like the sump is (and has been) full, and I started to take the cover off but decided to wait until I had more time to spend with it--I'm hoping it's just a minor float issue, but doesn't seem like this sump will be too costly to deal with, even if I have to replace the whole thing. Not alot of room to work in there! From the shower, water was draining very slowly into the shower drain, and I now realize it was leaking through the area where the shower drain connects to the hose that runs to the sump, and flowing into the forward bilge.

Vacuflush also seems to be leaking some into the head.

I also noticed with the vacuflush, when I turn the vacuflush pump on, and I hear it pumping up and then stop--if I leave it sit for awhile I hear it re-pumping itself up, as if air is slowly leaking out of the pump that is used for the flush. Is this normal?

Thanks--this board is a great resource!

Nope on the vacuflush question. Sounds like it needs to be serviced. make sure the seal in the bowl is clean. Also, you need to let the pedal "snap" closed. many let it clase easily which is wrong.

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Jvalich
http://www.badcock.com

'04 FW 288 Vista "Mental Floss"

Jeffrey:

Going back to my original reply, my shower sump also did not work even before I found the discharge hose problem. The float switch and pump (nothing more than a standard bilge pump set-up in a sealed box) in my '00 are Attwood. I checked the switch with a multi-meter and it was bad so I changed that 1st. The pump would still not come on and I found it to be burnt-out (as a result of the kinked hose) so I replaced the pump also. If your is an Attwood, you can get the float switch and pump at any marine parts store and open the box and replace the guts. Be sure to use waterproof electrical butt connectors and give them a liberal coat of liquid electrical tape. The rebuild cost me under $50 compared to over $100 for a new sump unit. Good Luck!

Regarding the shower sump, I checked the forward bilge and it is pumping overboard with no problem. I pulled the ceiling from the aft bed but couldn't easily tell if there was crimping in the discharge line from the sump.

My shower sump was full of water and mold (I have no idea how long that water has been sealed in there!), and the fuse was blown (5 amp but I notice the pump is rated at 4 amp). I tried a new 5 amp fuse but still didn't get the pump to work.

I went to buy a new pump to replace the guts, but ended up splurging on a new attwood Sahara shower sump kit (with a new storage tank, and different/new design from the one on the boat). It's a little longer than the current sump container, but I think it will work.

I pulled the old sump, and I noticed that there was a second drain hose input into the old sump. I didn't follow the hose to see where it comes from yet (spent to much time wrestling the old sump out of the opening), but I didn't see this in the manual--does anyone's shower sump have a second drain hose attached to it? I'll report back where mine is when I do the new pump install--probably next weekend if not earlier.

Also, already found out the dangers of having two water inlets on the port side--I hooked up to fill the water, thinking I was using the right inlet (and not the one with an open hose into the engine compartment...)--filled about 1 1/2 gallon and heard water splashing out the drain on the other side of the boat (I thought this was water coming out of the overflow vent from the water supply and that the water supply was full). Turns out it was water being pumpout out of my bilge, as I was adding water right into the engine compartment, right ontop of my batteries. Really dumb! Then, bilge wouldn't turn off and I was fighting it to find out why. I got it to stop--think it was a float jam issue. Of course I decided to do all of this late in the evening on Saturday night, and by the time this fun started in was very dark.

Well, I can say I learned some lessons this weekend. Great experience, but frustrating too.

A/C condensate drain...my guess

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Jvalich
http://www.badcock.com

'04 FW 288 Vista "Mental Floss"