www.iFourWinns.com

Gents,

At the end of the season, I intend to have the bellows replaced when I have the bottom paint and outdrive paint done (also going to have an engine compression test done and an outdrive pressure test). I hope to do all of the other maintenance myself.

First, I found an online Volvo Penta distributor that seems to have much better pricing than my local dealer.

http://www.powerproductsystems.com

Anyone had good/bad luck with these folks?

Here is what I plan to purchase, please let me know if I've overlooked anything:

1. 5 - 16oz Volvo Power Steering, Trim/Tilt fluid (going to drain and refill the ps pump and the trim/tilt reservior.

2. Volvo SAE 30 (6 qts) engine oil and filter.

3. Distributor Cap, Rotor

4. Plugs and plug wires.

5. Magnesium Anode (is there only one?) One diagram shows one and another shows two.

6. Change out trim tab fluid (ATF)

7. 3 qts Volvo 75w-90 gear oil (outdrive)

8. Serpentine Belt (#3860086)

9. Fuel Lines (Napa)

10. Hoses.

11. Thermostat

12. New Bilge Pump and Sump (haven't decided on brand yet. my current model are no longer made (attwood v-series))

13. Impeller (spring time)

14. Fuel filter (spring time)

Thanks in advance.

Craig C.

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2003 Vista 248, VP 5.0 GXi-C, DP

That list sounds pretty good to me...I think the Volvo SX has one anode on the foward end of the lower unit and another one under the transom mount like my OMC Cobra...
To change the engine oil you will need a vaccum or electric pump to pump the oil out of the dipstick....and you need to check the location of the oil filter...if its a remote mount (usually on an exhaust riser) they are easy to get at but if it's in the original location (rear left side of engine block) you may have a tough time getting at it and may need an oil filter wrench that can be turned with a 3/8s drive ratchet...

For the drive oil change you need the pump that fits on the Volvo Penta gear oil bottles...

Thermostat...you need the gasket and the rubber ring that holds in the thermostat (there is a rubber ring that holds the thermo in the housing)
I like to use OMC gasket sealer on the gasket and bolts for the housing because it never hardens and come off easily the next time...

Fuel Water separating filter---comes off with an oil filter wrench...

Now don't foget that the outdrive should be removed at the end of each season to check for water in the bellows....grease the drive shaft splines...ujoints and gimble bearing (when the drive is off..you can really see if the grease is getting in the bearing)...

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Good list Craig. I get all my parts from MarinePartsExpress, I tend to order just over $100 worth and under 10lbs to get the free shipping. There are two anodes. As for the S belt, pickup a Goodyear Gatorback #4060995. I cross referenced the VP part #, its half the price for a better belt.

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2007 358 T-5.7GXi IB
Previous Boats
'08 H240, '08 V318, '04 268, '04 225

I try to buy as much as possible at NAPA, while still cost more than autozone or walmart, much cheaper than buying "marine" from any marine wholesaler.

For the fluids, and parts, you got to buy and install whatever makes you feel good about it. You want volvo, then buy volvo!

Most of the fluids (power steering, trim tabs) are just hydraulic fluid, I see no need to buy expensive volvo brand.

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2000 248 5.7L DP
'92, '94 SXI 750, '08 STX 15F, '12 Ultra LX 300
Videos

If you are doing the plugs you might as well do the compression test yourself.

List looks good. I'm gonna print it for myself.

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Walter

2003 248 Vista - VP 5.0 GXi
2009 Toyota Tundra SR5 5.7L 4x4

Thought about doing the compression test myself. What changed my mind is that the mechanic doing the bellows has an electronic compression testing computer. Less messy. I already have issues with gas fumes and I prefer not to exacerbate the problem by the potential messiness that occurs from a manual test.

Hopefully replacing the fuel lines will fix the fumes. If not, the issue is the tank, which will have to wait until next summer since I just filled up the tank when I had her out of the water last week.

Craig C.

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2003 Vista 248, VP 5.0 GXi-C, DP

The only thing I can add is I'm not sure you can get marine fuel line from NAPA... maybe you can, but USCG approved fuel line has about twice the wall thickness as automotive fuel line does.

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Jeff

'14 Cruisers 380 Express "Simon Sez"
Merc 8.2 Mag MPI 380
DTS B3X, (x2) Axius Premier


(SOLD)
'08 V318
Merc 350 Mag MPI 300
DTS Seacore, B3 (x2)

Let me clarify, I buy what I can at NAPA, I still use and buy parts from my FW dealer as well.

All I am saying, if the part/product is the same, automotive/marine, I will go with what is most friendly on the wallet.

By no means compromise safety or reliability of our boats!

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2000 248 5.7L DP
'92, '94 SXI 750, '08 STX 15F, '12 Ultra LX 300
Videos

While we're on the subject of cheaper parts ... I'm not paying $70.00 for 8 "Volvo" spark plugs. Part number 3861632. Anyone *know for sure* what these plugs cross reference to? I found some NGK part numbers but I cannot confirm if they x-ref.

Volvo plugs show a .060 gap and these NGK show a .035 gap. I know they are different brands, but in my experience the gap usually does not vary that much between brands.

Regular - TR5
Plat - TR5GP
Iridium - TR5IX

Craig C.

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2003 Vista 248, VP 5.0 GXi-C, DP