www.iFourWinns.com

I just started using my 2006 vista 248 - 5.7GI duo-prop in saltwater. I plan to flush with Salt Away after each use. Does anyone have any idea how much this will extend the life of my engine & outdrive? Will the Salt way hurt my engine or water pump? Would it be best to convert to a closed system?

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Seajay-v248

IF you planned to use it in salt most of the time from now on it would be best to put in closed cooling but that depends on how much rust is in the block and heads already...flushing will help but you still have to stay on top of checking the manifolds/risers after 4-5 years of salt use..unless you can go with a full closed system that includes the manifolds too...
I have run in salt for 8 years and I changed the manifolds once as a precaution (boat was 14 years old then but mostly freshwater up to that time) and I have not had any major problems due to salt use except you have to replace the thermostat often (1-2 seasons) if you are raw water cooled because they get sticky and even sand or other debris will keep them from closing...and the engine will run too cool then...

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Thanks for the good info. The engine temp runs at 185F now. Just trying to get a good idea if it is worth going to install a closed system for the engine, since I usually take the boat out of the water after each use and flush with salt way, I am thinking it may not be worth the extra cost.

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Seajay-v248

If you have a standard Volvo 160* thermostat it should be running at 160-170...I think 185 is too hot for raw water cooling and I'd be looking for why it runs that hot..
With raw water cooling the system is not under pressure so water boils at 212*F but you can get boiling even at lower temps in the hotter parts of the system
With closed cooling with a 15 psi cap and antifreeze it raises the boiling point to 265*F that's why a closed cooled engine can run hotter (as the engine was designed to in the first place).

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

+1 on the temp and thermostat. We have an 8.1L but always runs at 170F.

We were advised to change risers at 5 years. ~$1200 installed for the manifolds and risers was the amount we were quoted for a small block, $2200 installed for the big block. Once every five years is not bad, change them once and then upgrade before having to do them again.

Salt water seems to get into everything even from the first time out, especially electrical connections.

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2006 Four Winns 278 Vista.
Volvo Penta 8.1L, Duo Prop,
Kohler 5E Generator.

I bought my 248 in 07 so it was a six season salt boat. I was impressed with how well the drive looked on it but I went ahead and replaced my manifolds and risers, circ pump,therm housing and eventually the impellar housing. It was worth it for peace of mind. Did this before I even put it in the water - all oem vp parts. Somewhere on here I posted what the corrosion looked like in the riser/mani jackets. It was pretty eaten up. Not sure if they flushed it after running but I know they never used salt away..

FYI guys, SeaJay is the Proud new Papa of my 248

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Brett DiMichele

Welcome to the board!! You have one fine boat!

Only you can answer how much money you want to throw into boat to make things last longer or just replace as needed.

I boat in fresh water and believe in flushing system often, I don't do it after every outing, but at least a few times during the season. For me, just to check everything in the driveway.

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2000 248 5.7L DP
'92, '94 SXI 750, '08 STX 15F, '12 Ultra LX 300
Videos

Oops! My 5.7Gi engine runs with the needle straight up at 175F. I didn't have my glasses on, so thought it read 185F, which in car land would be good. It drops down to about 150 something when the termostat cycles when hooked up to the hose. In the water it stays at 175F, but are water temp in Florida are close to 90F.

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Seajay-v248

that's fine

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

.......and I'm not sure I believe 100%, in absolute absolute terms, the information the gauges give us. I think they're more useful in telling us if something is different to normal, or if something is changing.

Graham.

Well, for what it's worth concerning that gauge.. 175 is spot on.. It's always run at 175. A lot of EFI engines run 190 thermostats, which I've always thought was too hot.. but apparently not.

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Brett DiMichele

We take the boat out the water and use salt away after each use. Dont be greedy on the productr and you'll be fine... Here in South West FL, there are very few boats in this class with a closed system.

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Richard - FL - 2005 Vista 248

I am in Navarre, Florida, just 20 miles east of Pensacola, along the Gulf Coast. I don't think I want to go much bigger, with pulling it out of the water each time. Thanks for the info about replacing the manifolds and risers, circ pump, therm housing and eventually the impellar housing.
Hopefully I will be able to stay away from that expense by flushing and using salt-way.

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Seajay-v248

I think you will be fine using the neutra-salt type products, but I would pull the manifolds every 3 or so seasons and check the integrity, because a little bit of time and a new set of gaskets is much cheaper than rebuilding a hydro locked engine.

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Brett DiMichele