www.iFourWinns.com

What looked like a small project has now turned into a big one. I need to replace my hot water heater, but after taking measurements there appears to be no other way to get it out except removing: 1.) the alternator 2.) all pulleys and tensioned 3.) the raw water pump 4.) the circulation pump and 5.) the fuel pump from my port engine. I need 12 inches of clearance between the front of the engines and the edge of the engine bay hatch to get the old heater out and new heater in. I have about 8 inches. Has anybody done this job and am I missing something obvious here that could save me an enormous amount of time?

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2002 Vista 298
Video of boating from The Florida Keys, to Miami, to Bimini/Bahamas

HI

Sorry to hear about your problem. Lets turn the problem around!!! How much room do you need to get the new one in??? To me that is the question, because you can take a sawsall or something to the old heater. A new heater can come in all shapes & sizes.

Good luck with it!!
Paul

Very good idea Paul. I'm going to measure again today and snap a few pictures. There is approximately 8 inches of depth available until I run into the belts etc... Width available is about 2 feet considering I need to "round the corner" to bolt it down. The old heater is an Attwood 6gal.

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2002 Vista 298
Video of boating from The Florida Keys, to Miami, to Bimini/Bahamas

This one might barely squeak in: http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... &id=606334

Althought at $750 for 4 gallons of hot water... the question is, how much is my time worth?

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2002 Vista 298
Video of boating from The Florida Keys, to Miami, to Bimini/Bahamas

Yes. I had the same problem in my 258v. I disassembled, in place - destroyed is more accurate - the old heater and coupled the appropriate engine hoses and potable hoses together until the next port riser replacement, when it was easy to get the new heater in place.

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Tom
Cape Coral

'99 Four Winns 258 Vista
http://www.ustream.tv/channel/bowcam
http://www.ustream.tv/channel/cape-coral-marine-radio VHF
http://67.207.143.181/vlf9.m3u VLF: Lightning, spherics

I replaced the hot water tank in my old motoryacht and had the same issue, as stated above by another member, I unscrewed the bolts that surround the actual enclosure for the tank and was able to get the actual cylinder tank out and the enclosure out in peices, I think that price for a hot water tank is a bit high and suggest looking for a better price, I was able to get a 10 gallon tank for about $400, I will dig around and see where I got it.

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1999 298 Vista [color=#FF0000]Sold!!!
twin Volvo 5.7GXI

Woody: Pour you a beer, Mr. Peterson?
Norm: Alright, but stop me at one...make that one-thirty

Not a "slim fit heater" but price is better.

http://www.boatfix.com/shop4/store/view ... duct=10707

Or an 11 gallon.

http://www.hodgesmarine.com/Atwoom-Ehm- ... w93882.htm

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One of 4 Previous (Sold) Boats:
2000 Four Winns 268 Vista

Current Boat: 2004 Chaparral 235 ssi cuddy

Hi

The Atwood is not stateing how long the warranty is. The ISOTHERM is 5 years and is also made of SS. It is a better unit, but it cost a lot more.

Paul

Narcosis,

Let me know how things work out regarding removal/installation and what purchase you decide . I have the same model and year and know that I'm on borrowed time with the eight year old water heater.

Enjoy the Boat!

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2002 Vista 298 VP 5.0Gxi

That is because the link provided is from a distributor, not the manufacturer. If you had taken the time
to look it up, you would find the Atwood warranty is 2 years.

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One of 4 Previous (Sold) Boats:
2000 Four Winns 268 Vista

Current Boat: 2004 Chaparral 235 ssi cuddy

Hi

Your right "if I had taken the time" as you pionted out. The real point is, the Isotherm is a better unit. So, of course, it cost more. Were in itself, it pays off, or at lest to me. Do you want to pay less and replace it more often, or pay more and replaces it less ofton. You might break even $$$, no right or wrong answer here other than what is right/good for you!! OH, and what will fit in you'er boat!!

Good luck
Paul

Hi

Your right "if I had taken the time" as you pointed out. The real point is, the Isotherm is a better unit. So, of course, it cost more. Were in itself, it pays off, or at lest to me. Do you want to pay less and replace it more often, or pay more and replaces it less often. You might break even $$$, no right or wrong answer here other than what is right/good for you!! OH, and what will fit in you're boat!!

Good luck
Paul

The world would be a better place if we all were as smart as the Capn.

I'll try and steer this thread back on track...

We are new to the cruiser field and have yet to use our boat for anything longer than 4-5 hours at once but I do know that my 6 gallon 120 V standard hot water heater (no engine heating) that is located in the rear most starboard engine bay has to go. I want that area for batteries. Realistically how much hot water do you need on a boat? I only see us using hot water to either wash some dishes or maybe our hair if we are on the hook. The lake will work as a big bath tub Most of our time will be single overnight stays, longer trips will involve marina visits so we can shower there.

here's what I am going to install under the bathroom cupboard.
http://www.gsw-wh.com/pdfs/products/water/spacesaver/22451_1A.PDF

The way I see it, your using the engine to heat the water in those other types of heaters and if you travel in the morning by the time you go to use it in the evening it'll be luke warm anyways so your going to have to either start a genny or an engine anyways. Why complicate the matter with extra hoses and risk a leak?

You may want to consider something similar in a more accessible location.

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Marc, Kathlin & Nathalie


'89 Chaparral Laser 32

'93 Vista 245, 5.8L w/ King Cobra

Former Boats
'01 H260, 7.4 VP Duoprop
'98 H200, 5.0 GL w/VP SX drive

Have you asked Four Winns what the recommended procedure is to remove the heater? On our 348 it required removing the bench fiberglass panel above it. This made for a lot more access to the whole area. But even with that I found it easier to disassemble the old one in place (removing a ton of sheetmetal screws around the housing). Inside the square box is a round tank and that cleared the space better. You will not want to do this without a proper 1/4" nutdriver. A right-angle cordless drill and a 1/4" socket makes quick work of the disassembly process.

I find if I run the boat for about an hour the water in the tank stays heated for at least 6 hours. Plenty warm enough for showers or washing down on the transom. The whole boat is a risk for sinking, so I'm not worrying about one more set of hoses. I can't recall for certain but is it raw water running through it? Or is it engine antifreeze? Probably raw water as the closed system coolant might get too hot for it. Regardless, it's not enough to worry about, especially when they're part of regular maintenance and inspection.

But I certainly would argue against removing it. Just be prepared to take a hit on your resale value for a defective plumbing setup. You'd probably be best served running a loop from the cold to the hot hoses at the tank. That way the hot lines would still provide water, not run dry putting various seals at risk.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista