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 Post subject: Windlass Height on a 328
PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2012 3:33 pm 
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Location: Lake Ontario
I'm looking at replacing my broken Concept 0 windlass with a Lewmar Pro 1000 Horizontal - it's 5.75" high. Does anyone know how deep the compartment for the windlass is on a 1999 328? Mine is all wrapped up at the moment.

Thanks,

Steve.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2012 8:10 pm 
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Location: Winthrop, Ma.
I would down load the manual on the old one for the specs. BUT, I would not be worried about hight in the compartment. There should be at least 18-24" below the old one. Otherwise the rode would not fall right. I would be more concered (if it was me) about the deck "foot print" between the 2 models. In other words, are the holes going to line up. If not, how much im I going to cut and/or fill in?


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 8:28 am 
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Location: Lake Ontario
I'm actually trying to figure out how much space is under the hatch on the deck. The one you lift up to access the windlass (not the anchor locker). Moving from a vertical windlass which was only say 2" tall (above the deck) to a horizontal windlass 5.75" tall (fully sits on the deck). I need to make sure I will be able to close that hatch.

In a related question - has anyone run new wiring from the batteries to the anchor locker? I need to replace the original 8AWG with 4AWG - not looking forward to that so any tips would be helpful.

Steve.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 10:45 pm 
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Location: Winthrop, Ma.
I have a V258, it never had a windlass so I had to snake wires too. I wish I could you tell how to do it on your boat, but I have done it twice.

Each time, I look for way just to snake it a few feet. From the engine compartment, I went to the fuse box just under the stick. I pulled the fuse bowx out and used a 3 foot snake. From there I pulled put the TP holder in the head. Again using the snake to go from the fuse box to the TP holder. You can see were I am going with this.

In your case, you could use the two #8 wires and tie them together. Then run one #4 wire, this way you will have some of the work done for you. Also, it will fit into tighter places. I would make the two #4 wires NEG. & use black or yellow electrical tape on each end for at least 12". This will better show what the wire is.

Good luck


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 5:14 am 
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Location: Freeland, MI
On my last boat, an 03 268, I put on a lewmar h700. I used it for a few years, but always had trouble with the rope coming off the gypsy at the most inopportune time, so I put a V700 on, and it was much better.

On my current boat it has the maxwell on it, and if I had to do it over I would put a vertical maxwell unit on. Whatever the size they put on from the factory. Just seems to me the Maxwells are built heavier.

I didn't like the horizontal unit at all.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 9:29 am 
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Location: Georgian Bay, Ontario
I had to run new wires on our 248. The 8awg was not big enough. I ended up putting the maxwell RC8 not the RC5 Got a deal I could not refuse. With some patience and if you don't mind taking some things apart it's not that bad. I'm sure there are a few around here that have had the inside of there 328 apart for other things. Just get a case of beer and go sit in the boat and plan the root out!
I think they have discontinued the Maxwell line. You may find a good deal on one if you can find it, start searching the net

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 10:30 am 
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Location: Lake Ontario
acguy wrote:
I had to run new wires on our 248. The 8awg was not big enough. I ended up putting the maxwell RC8 not the RC5 Got a deal I could not refuse. With some patience and if you don't mind taking some things apart it's not that bad. I'm sure there are a few around here that have had the inside of there 328 apart for other things. Just get a case of beer and go sit in the boat and plan the root out!
I think they have discontinued the Maxwell line. You may find a good deal on one if you can find it, start searching the net


I like the beer idea - even I don't manage to plan the route...

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1999 Four Winns 328 Vista - SOLD


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 9:19 pm 
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Location: Frisco, TX
weather wrote:
I'm actually trying to figure out how much space is under the hatch on the deck. The one you lift up to access the windlass (not the anchor locker). Moving from a vertical windlass which was only say 2" tall (above the deck) to a horizontal windlass 5.75" tall (fully sits on the deck). I need to make sure I will be able to close that hatch.

In a related question - has anyone run new wiring from the batteries to the anchor locker? I need to replace the original 8AWG with 4AWG - not looking forward to that so any tips would be helpful.

Steve.


Steve, I can get you an answer by the weekend. I have 2001 328. Just by the eyeball test, I'm not sure there will be enough room. It will be close. This is what you are looking for, right?

Image

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2012 12:11 pm 
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Location: Lake Ontario
txvista wrote:
weather wrote:
I'm actually trying to figure out how much space is under the hatch on the deck. The one you lift up to access the windlass (not the anchor locker). Moving from a vertical windlass which was only say 2" tall (above the deck) to a horizontal windlass 5.75" tall (fully sits on the deck). I need to make sure I will be able to close that hatch.

In a related question - has anyone run new wiring from the batteries to the anchor locker? I need to replace the original 8AWG with 4AWG - not looking forward to that so any tips would be helpful.

Steve.


Steve, I can get you an answer by the weekend. I have 2001 328. Just by the eyeball test, I'm not sure there will be enough room. It will be close. This is what you are looking for, right?

Image


Yes, exactly what I'm looking for. I appreciate you going out of your way to measure it. Looking at it, the flat deck space looks small in there too. While your doing the height, could you also do the width and length of the flat bottom?

Thanks,

Steve.

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1999 Four Winns 328 Vista - SOLD


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2012 11:02 pm 
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Location: Frisco, TX
Steve,
The deepest part is 7.5"
The shallowest is 5.75"
From the port side to the cleat is 13"
From bow to stern is 12.5"

Hope this helps.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2012 8:50 am 
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Location: Winthrop, Ma.
I wish I had that locker, thats great. I guess my boat is too small for that!!


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2012 12:33 pm 
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Location: Lake Ontario
txvista wrote:
Steve,
The deepest part is 7.5"
The shallowest is 5.75"
From the port side to the cleat is 13"
From bow to stern is 12.5"

Hope this helps.


Perfect, thank you. Just 2 questions:

1. is the shallowest part the front or back?
2. When you measured the depth, was that to the surrounding deck height, or to the bottom of the closed lid? Essentially I'm wondering if I have at least those depths with the lid shut?

Thanks Txvista!

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1999 Four Winns 328 Vista - SOLD


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2012 3:25 pm 
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Location: Frisco, TX
The shallowest part was near the front (bow). I measured the height to the top of the lip that hatch rests on.

Let me know if you need anything else.

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