1999 Hull Core?

weather · **Posted:** Wed Mar 28, 2012 2:58 pm

I've read a few times on here that FW doesn't use a wood core below the waterline. Does this hold true for my 1999 328 Vista? I'll be replacing my through hull transducer and 2 seacocks so I'd like to know before I start that job.

Steve.

Cap'n Morgan · **Posted:** Wed Mar 28, 2012 3:00 pm

Not a cored hull on your boat. The deck is however.

weather · **Posted:** Wed Mar 28, 2012 8:00 pm

Cap'n Morgan wrote:

Not a cored hull on your boat. The deck is however.

Perfect, hoping you'd say that! Unfortunatly I know about the deck - there is a soft spot up by the windlass buttons I need to have looked at this year.

Thanks Cap'n.

Cap'n Morgan · **Posted:** Wed Mar 28, 2012 8:36 pm

You may want to re-seal your stanchions on your bow rail while you are attending to the windlass pedal soft spots. They are also a common candidate for slight leaks over time and water intrusion into the coring.

weather · **Posted:** Thu Mar 29, 2012 8:06 am

Cap'n Morgan wrote:

You may want to re-seal your stanchions on your bow rail while you are attending to the windlass pedal soft spots. They are also a common candidate for slight leaks over time and water intrusion into the coring.

Sounds like a good idea. Is it as simple as unscrewing the bases, lifting the whole rail a bit and re-applying some 4200 around the screw holes?

Decision · **Posted:** Thu Mar 29, 2012 8:37 am

Weather, I am also curious to hear the answer to your question "Is it as simple as unscrewing the bases, lifting the whole rail a bit and re-applying some 4200 around the screw holes?", as I have rebedding of the stachions listed on my spring to do list just as a preventative measure.

I was not sure whether the screws thru the stanchions had bolts on the other side or were just screwed to the deck?

I'd appreciate any advise as well on the best way to do this.

Mike

Cap'n Morgan · **Posted:** Thu Mar 29, 2012 9:13 am

Your stanchions are bolted through the hull. To do it properly you would have to do some dis-assembly of the interior of your boat to get at the bolts. When you re-bed, I would use 3M 4000 as the bedding compound. You can use 4200 but 4200 is a one-part Urethane polymer and 4000 is a Polyether. 4200 is not UV stable, and will yellow over time, wheras 4000 will not.

It can be quite a task to do this, depending on how easy or hard it is to gain access to the bolts, but once it is done properly, you can not worry about water intrusion for many more years. Plus upi can identify at that time if you have any deck core comprimises and correct them at that time with some West Systems epoxy.

Decision · **Posted:** Thu Mar 29, 2012 10:16 am

Well, I gotta ask.

I wonder if using 3M 4000 by sealing around the outside diameter of each stanchion without going to the effort of unbolting each stanchion when be deemed adequate, or would that just be a very poor idea for helping keep water out of the deck core?

Mike.

Cap'n Morgan · **Posted:** Thu Mar 29, 2012 10:24 am

It can't hurt, but if some of the bedding has worked loose over the years, which is likely, you will never know unless you pull them off and look. Kinda like a band aid / temp fix if there is an existing problem. It's a decent chance with the age of your boats, that it could use re-bedding if it has not been done since new.

You could have a yard use a moisture meter around the deck stanchions, cleats, windlass and hatches before you do anything just to see if there is moisture detected. The longer the moisture exists, the worse the problem gets over time.

weather · **Posted:** Thu Mar 29, 2012 10:48 am

I need to run two 4AWG cables forward to my anchor locker this spring so interior disassembly seems to be in my future in any case. Good to know they are bolted through the hull, just screwed into the deck wouldn't be very strong.
I've also seen butyl tape used to re-bed as an alternative to the 3M products. Good to know that 4200 isn't UV stable, I didn't realize that.

Cap'n Morgan · **Posted:** Thu Mar 29, 2012 11:23 am

This thread had some pictures of the nyloc nuts used on the bow rails that Brett248Vista posted a couple of years ago. I can't see them at work, so I hope they are still viewable. It will give you an idea of what it looks like at least.

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2970&p=29019#p29019

weather · **Posted:** Thu Mar 29, 2012 12:35 pm

Those images don't seem to be available. Thanks for the link.

weather · **Posted:** Thu Mar 29, 2012 4:01 pm

Any idea how thick the hull is? The through hulls I'm looking have 2.2" of thread. Looks like ~1" goes into the seacock flange and I'm planning on adding a backer block. Thickness of the backer block will depend on the hull thickness. If it's 1/2" or less, then I could use 3/4" backer.

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1999 Hull Core?

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