'shower drain' collector... there has to be better than this

cougarcruiser · **Posted:** Thu Jun 23, 2011 8:18 pm

I spent some time going through systems on the boat today... I have been neglecting a few nagging issues.

One thing that is really bugging me is the shower sump collector... the float switch doesn't work, the box isn't sealed, and it turns colors from crud if you don't spend alot of time maintaining this.

My questions for folks...

1) Any idea why my float switch doesn't work? The pump comes on when I trip the breaker... I've checked fuses at the panel and the engine switch panel. I thought maybe it was tied to the fwd bilge pump where my genny/ac sea strainers are - but that doesn't affect anything. Has anyone else figured this setup out?

2) Is there a sealed box with an automatic switch? There has to be something better here that I can ground and wire 12v+ and just be done with it.

3) There are 3 inlets... 1)sink drain 2) shower foor drain 3)????? A/C overflow maybe? Does anyone know? It's not the bathroom sink - that has a thru hull.

318boating · **Posted:** Thu Jun 23, 2011 10:25 pm

I really don't know, I can tell you that all my sinks drain over directly, and I've got a 2007 too. I did read that the AC and shower go to that pump, not sure about the third hose. Ill try to look that up when I go to boat Sat.

Cheers

318boating · **Posted:** Thu Jun 23, 2011 10:27 pm

ouch, sorry you have a 2008, maybe different to mine?

Turtle · **Posted:** Fri Jun 24, 2011 5:47 am

Well I went thru this issue with mine and your shower sump has several issues.
Firstly the float should be screwed to the pan, it should have a debris collector (strainer)to prevent pump clogging, there is a lid that screws and seals to prevent overflow/ smell. It does drain the items you have identified exactly to your waste tank. Do not bother trying to figure it out just spend a $100 and you will get a direct replacement shower sump that includes a float, lid and pump..ie the complete box brand new. It is a generic RULE box available anywhere.
As for why it doesn't work it is probably clogged from grease, gunk and debris
Pull it out join the wires / drain pipes and problem solved. Shouldn't take 30 minutes.
Good luck

danwolfca · **Joined:** Sat Dec 13, 2008 8:36 pm **Posts:** 24

I had the same issue with my shower sump, so I replaced it with Attwood shower sump pump...I had to adjust some of the hoses since this box is slightly longer but overall it performs better than the original one...But you do have to keep it clean and avoid small food parts to drain to it via the galley sink...

Partycove2 · **Posted:** Fri Jun 24, 2011 8:20 am

Cougar,

Yes it is the Galley Sink, Shower Floor Drain and the A/C that drains into this box.
That said, the float switch is a common problem, just replace it (about 20 bucks).
As for maintaining it, dump a little bleach down the drain when your not going to be there for awhile, it wil help clean it.
One modification I did to mine, because the pump would cycle on and off about every 5 minute was to install a inline check valve in the discharge hose. The box sits below the water line so it had to go up before out, meaning what is in the "up" part of the hose would drain back into the box and it would cause it to cycle ( there's a joker valve in the clear tube coming off the pump but they are junk)

I can send you the part number of the check valve if you like, it is a raritan.

Paul I. · **Posted:** Fri Jun 24, 2011 8:29 am

The float switch is easy to replace. What I noticed is that there is no screen or strainer as in the Atwood box. The Atwood is a all-in-one unit, more money, but a simpler design. Pump & float in one. As to the other hose, try to follow it, what generally direction is it going in? Leave the cover off and try pouring water down anything that is in that area.

If it is from a sink, I would seal it and drain the sink overboard. Less work on the pump and the box will stay a little cleaner

cougarcruiser · **Posted:** Fri Jun 24, 2011 8:37 am

Thanks guys.

When I took the picture, I had already disassembled the cover, strainer, and removed the float switch to clean out the box. It was black.

I suppose my knee jerk reaction is that the wiring is bad - not the switch. I just didn't have my tester with me. I am guessing that float switch is all '+'. One constant, and then one switched that will trigger the pump to come on. I need to double check the wiring and make sure it's the switch.

The question of whether or not I overboard the galley sink is one I am considering. We don't usually put significant food particles down the drain - but we will pour out old coffee, and other items. There is definitely something to think about for changing that drain.

jrcinnh · **Joined:** Fri Sep 14, 2007 9:13 am **Posts:** 313

The motor needs 12 volts and ground to run. So one side should always be grounded. The other side gets 12 volts from two different sources. One the manual switch on the breaker panel. This applies 12 volts right to the motor. The other side is the float switch. There should always be 12 volts on one side of the switch. There should be 12 volts on the other side of the switch only when the switch is up.

Get a decent voltmeter with good probes. Follow the wires to connectors so you can measure these voltages. Or just change the float switch. The wires are not going to be bad on a 5 year old boat, unless you see visible damage.

My switch failed the second year I had the boat, since they went away from mercury, these switches are very flaky. Mine failed halfway it put out 4 volts no matter the switch position. I did find an old mecury one on the bottom shelf of an old boat store. Two cuts, crimp two butt connectors, a little tape and done.

jnizi · **Posted:** Sat Jun 25, 2011 8:05 am

I changed our galley sink to a direct overboard thru hull a few weeks ago and it is well worth it. In hindsight, I would have dropped the thru hull another inch or two but decided to center the thru hull in the middle of one the graphic line.

I will look at the Attwood. I have already replaced the Rule pump once and cleaned the switch several times.

Cruisin Home · **Posted:** Mon Jun 27, 2011 3:05 pm

Been there done that! That switch and pump will continue to get gunked up and fail until you direct discharge the kitchen sink. did it this year and we are so happy.

You can replace the switch or just order new sump box (defender sells for about $100).

everynow and then pour some bleach or waste treatment down shower drain.

Paul358V · **Posted:** Wed Jun 29, 2011 9:53 pm

Another vote for the galley sink drain swap to a thru-hull. Did this over the winter and have noticed a MUCH cleaner sump box this season. I've already replaced the pump twice and float switch once on our 2007 V358. We use it a lot (3 day weekends and long trips all summer long), A/C runs a lot and numerous showers keep the sump box working frequently. This season's lack of galley sink input has helped.

I replace the check valve every season to prevent leak by and frequent cycling of the pump due to drain back of the discharge hose.

Partycove2 · **Posted:** Mon Jan 02, 2012 12:14 pm

Anyone know the PN and place to buy the matching thru haul fittings, I have had enough of this sump box and will take the sink over board

jsimon · **Posted:** Mon Jan 02, 2012 2:54 pm

http://www.smwebhead.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=8147

Four Winns gets alot of their hardware here. Going from memory, the gally sink is a 3/4" hose, but double check me on that.

jsimon · **Posted:** Mon Jan 02, 2012 3:01 pm

http://www.smwebhead.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=8147

Here is an in depth discussion on that very thing.

I have done mine, pm me if you have questions.

www.iFourWinns.com

'shower drain' collector... there has to be better than this

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