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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2007 6:53 pm 
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The Real Dr.Evil
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Joined: Sun Apr 22, 2007 9:35 am
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Location: Greensburg PA
After launching and retrieving my 248 a total of two times now, I am seeing scratches where the bunks contact the gel. The bunk carpet is clean, nothing protruding and I hosed the carpets down with PAM.

I'm not real happy with this and must find a fix because scratching the bottom of my boat IS NOT an option... Any one else have this problem?

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2007 6:38 am 
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Andiamo
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Joined: Mon Dec 18, 2006 7:08 pm
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Location: Hudson River, NY
Just a wild guess, but maybe try to back the trailer a little more so that it floats on and off a little more rather than scraping it's way along the bunks.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2007 4:34 pm 
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The Real Dr.Evil
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Location: Greensburg PA
Giaccamo wrote:
Just a wild guess, but maybe try to back the trailer a little more so that it floats on and off a little more rather than scraping it's way along the bunks.


If you back the trailer in too far then the side guides are below the waterline and that's just asking to damage the underside of the boat if it drifts across the guides.

As nice as the FW trailer looks, I betcha if it was a Prestige or Heritage Custom, it would FUNCTION a whole lot better... :)

I may add teflon slicks to the forward bunks and leave the rears alone. The problem I believe is that my ramp is short and steep. There's no way to get the trailer in deep enough without having it too deep.

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 Post subject: boat loading tip
PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2007 8:18 pm 
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Minnow

Joined: Fri Jun 01, 2007 8:40 pm
Posts: 10
Location: FL
:wink: goto any lowes/home depot get vynil a post the legnth u need,cut in half as needed bolt these to the top of bunks ,problem solved


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2007 8:06 am 
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ShanMan
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Location: Huntsville, Alabama
FWIW, the side bunks scratched my Funship when I had it. In fact, I often loaded in a river with a swift current. I actually bent the supports as I glided in, they're flimsy and the carpet is not all that soft.

As a side note, FW does not use stainless staples to attach the carpet; at least on the upright bunks. I modified my bunks a bit and upon disassembly noted the staples were rusting badly. It was practically brand new, we had less than 15 hours on the boat at the time and maybe a 5-10 launches. :roll:

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2007 4:17 pm 
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Shark

Joined: Sat Dec 02, 2006 3:37 pm
Posts: 105
Location: SW Michigan
There's nothing you can do about the scratchs where the bunks meet. The lake water has tiny pieces of sand floating at all times, so even going teflon wont help much. After a few years, you can add osmotic hull blistering to that area also, as the wet carpet holds water against the gel for hours and hours. Nothing you can do about that either.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2007 5:52 pm 
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Dolphin

Joined: Mon Jun 19, 2006 3:35 pm
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Location: Michigan & Nokomis,Florida
My Vista also shows wear from the trailer bunks. When you think about the fact that your Vista weights in around 6000lbs, that's a lot of pressure between the hull and carpeted bunks. Perhaps rollers would not scratch the gel coat,however bunks give better support.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2007 6:19 pm 
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The Real Dr.Evil
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Location: Greensburg PA
Fred 248 Vista wrote:
My Vista also shows wear from the trailer bunks. When you think about the fact that your Vista weights in around 6000lbs, that's a lot of pressure between the hull and carpeted bunks. Perhaps rollers would not scratch the gel coat,however bunks give better support.



Fred,

Add at least a thousand more pounds to that figure. 70 Gallons of fuel, 20+ gallons of water, waste tank etc..

I realise that it is a lot of pressure, but I will take steps to minimize the friction. I can tell you there is way too much friction when launching. If that means I have to add glides to the front bunks that's what I will do. And that's where the wear is comming from. I think a combo of glide sticks on the front section of the bunks and spraying the carpet with Pam or Silicone will help the friction and wear. This boat is way harder to launch at the ramp I use, than I think it should be! :)

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2007 7:45 pm 
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ShanMan
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Location: Huntsville, Alabama
My 278 is still trailerable, but we sold ours back to the dealer and wet slip. If there was one thing I did not enjoy about boating, it was loading. This thread confirms that!

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2007 10:58 pm 
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email admin your custom rank

Joined: Sun Nov 12, 2006 6:32 pm
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Location: Florida
I trailered a Four Winns for over 15yrs. Put the trailer back far enough into the water so that the guides are just at the surface level. At that height the captain can see where the guides are when approaching the trailer. At that height you should only have to use the winch for a very few inches. The few inches of winching at a proper water depth for the trailer should not cause any scratching. I have seen many people either burying their trailer (and tow vehicle) in the water or are afraid to really put the trailer in the water. Bunk trailers are meant to float the boat off/on the bunks. With a little practice you should be fine.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2007 11:27 pm 
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The Real Dr.Evil
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Location: Greensburg PA
BarryBoats wrote:
I trailered a Four Winns for over 15yrs. Put the trailer back far enough into the water so that the guides are just at the surface level. At that height the captain can see where the guides are when approaching the trailer. At that height you should only have to use the winch for a very few inches. The few inches of winching at a proper water depth for the trailer should not cause any scratching. I have seen many people either burying their trailer (and tow vehicle) in the water or are afraid to really put the trailer in the water. Bunk trailers are meant to float the boat off/on the bunks. With a little practice you should be fine.


This was certainly not the case on other boat's I've had. My last boat (2002 Stingray 230SX 496 Magnum) was not a lightweight and it rode on a Heritage four bunk. The boat was solid red gel coat and suprisingly the bunks did not tear up the gel on that boat.

The 248 is no doubt a heavier boat than the 230, by a long shot. But it seems that you either get the trailer in too deep or too shallow (at my ramp). If I go in deep, sure it floats right off, and that's fine... But if I try and put it in that deep and load, it doesn't load well at all. And if you go too shallow, well we know how that goes.

There isn't a happy enough medium on this trailer for my liking. I personally feel the side guide bunks should be about 2' taller.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 5:35 am 
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Starfish

Joined: Mon Aug 07, 2006 4:28 am
Posts: 57
Location: Sydney, Australia
i have noticed some fine sratching/ scuffing from the bunks on my 2005 model but i have probally loaded and unloaded it about 100 times and a few deeper ones up near the bow (but not through the gelcoat), but i power load my boat always. i think the interpretation of "scratching" is widespread as some people run there boat hulls up on beaches and such and any trailer marks marks are going to be hidden more than a new shiney or well maintained hull. Also if you have to view the scratch in the right light close up is this a scratch? i think it is best to forget about scratches you cant see standing 4' from the boat, you can always buff them out at the end of the season, to avoid them i do not know the answer, maybe putting the trailer in deeper may be the answer but then misalignment comes into play.

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 Post subject: vinyl
PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 8:06 pm 
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Minnow

Joined: Fri Jun 01, 2007 8:40 pm
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Location: FL
put vinyl fence sections on your bunks


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 11:18 pm 
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Mental Floss

Joined: Mon May 22, 2006 3:46 pm
Posts: 919
Location: Lakeland, FL
I have no issues with scratching by the bunks with my Vista and she weighs in at 12000# on the trailer. I have to power load mostly all the time.

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