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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2012 12:10 am 
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Guppy
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Joined: Fri Jun 29, 2012 10:24 pm
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So I started to trouble shoot an electrical problem that would cause the voltage gauge to drop below 8 volts when the navigation lights are on. Alternator is working and charging both batteries.

From what I could tell it seems like a grounding issue. So I removed the dash panel and found a disconnected connector (2 Wire) BLK & ORN on one side and YEL/BLK and PUR on the other side. So I connected it......Bam!! everything works and the gauge jumps up to 14 volts all gauge lights light up a bit more. That makes sense since the BLK is the groud loop for all gauges as well. I assume the gauge lights also get their groud from this source that has been disconnected. I think I fixed the problem but then when I go to shut the engine off.......the engine stays running and won't shut off unless I disconnect the (2-Wire) connector.

So I traced the wires from the connector in the Owners Manual Page 5 or the Vista 248/268 Wiring Diagram Helm Panels.

BLK = Ground for all bulbs in the gauges
ORN = GAS VAPOR Detector

YEL/BLK = FIREEDY INDICATOR
PUR = Ignition

I am not sure how to get the engine to shut off and keep this connector connected. Any help would be great!!

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Home Port: "The Point on the River" Milwaukee, WI
1999 268 Vista
1991 Supra Comp ts6m
1990 Bayliner Capri


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 9:26 pm 
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Dolphin

Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2012 7:34 pm
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Location: Alberta, CA
It sounds to me like something has been added to the ignition(likely the wrong side), eliminating the disconnect through the ignition circuit essentially bypassing the purple wire which likely would have been the original loop. Having said this I would trace the wires connected to the ignition, and trace the purple wire for spices. If you find a splice on the ignition side ie: radio which works in the off position remove and test the starting/shutoff circuit again, repeat the proceedure with the purple wire if splices are found. Of course look for abrasions/nicks in the purple wire that may be causing reverse polarity. Oh yeah were the nav lights on or off when you tried to turn off the engine.

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2000 H190 5.0GL


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 9:33 am 
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Guppy
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I can't recall if Nav lights were on or off I will test this. One thing I forgot to add in my post when I connect the wire it's in fire ready mode I.E. the same as turning the key to the on position. Gauges move depth finder lights etc.

I tired removing fuses but engine still would run. I will trace the wires from ignition As you suggest and hopefully find something. Not any added electrical to the boat that I can see accept maybe a replaced ignition switch?

Really wish I knew who thought it was a great idea to disconnect wires to fix problems :P

Thanks for your reply

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Home Port: "The Point on the River" Milwaukee, WI
1999 268 Vista
1991 Supra Comp ts6m
1990 Bayliner Capri


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 10:01 am 
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Guppy
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After looking at the diagram and reading my manual I think this might help as a clue. Maybe someone can confirm for me sequence of startup operation.

(When you turn the key to Start position this should sound the alarm and stop when the engine starts.). This does not happen and I never hear an alarm. Can you confirm an alarm at startup?

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Home Port: "The Point on the River" Milwaukee, WI
1999 268 Vista
1991 Supra Comp ts6m
1990 Bayliner Capri


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 10:33 am 
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268 Vista

Joined: Tue May 16, 2006 9:49 am
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Location: West Michigan
Yes, alarm should sound at start up as you describe. It did on my 2000 268 Vista, and should on your 1999.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 6:21 pm 
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Guppy
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Not sure if this problem is related but I will investigate why I don't hear an alarm for - No Oil Presure or High Temp as the manual says.

They only alarm I can find behind the gauges is the depth alarm. Does it use this same alarm? Looking at the manual diagrm it does not. I will have to trace more wires.

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Home Port: "The Point on the River" Milwaukee, WI
1999 268 Vista
1991 Supra Comp ts6m
1990 Bayliner Capri


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 8:22 pm 
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Dolphin

Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2012 7:34 pm
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Location: Alberta, CA
The replaced ignition could be the clue. or the cause. An ignition switch is just that a swicth (albiet locked) and there are many different configurations and polarities stsp/stdp/dtdp/mo etc. Unplug the connector with the ignition in the off position and check the purples wires adjoining wire (the one that goes back to the ignition) and see if it is powered, also check the purple wire for power when they are unplugged. Count the number of terminals on the back of the ignition switch and note which ones are used and in what position they have power(and if they have power) do not unplug the existing wires on the ignition terminals for this test just note where they are and what statr they are in. The next question is how many detents or positions does the ignition have eg: Accy/off/start(momentary)/on.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 21, 2012 2:05 am 
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Guppy
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Okay so here is the update on today's findings.

After testing with a test light I determined the purple wire at the ignition switch is getting power from the ORN GAS VAPOR wire. I don't think I have the GAS VAPOR detector option? So the wire goes to a 15pin harness and back to the engine. Somehow its getting power so I have to trace that wire another day.

So short term fix I removed the ORN wire from the two wire connector then connected it to complete the Ground loop. All is working properly as I can tell. Hopefully nothing else needed power from that ORN wire :O

Does anyone have a gas vapor detector? Is there an easy way to tell if I have one? The manual says its an option on the 268.

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Home Port: "The Point on the River" Milwaukee, WI
1999 268 Vista
1991 Supra Comp ts6m
1990 Bayliner Capri


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 6:58 am 
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Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2012 11:17 pm
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
Epic thread revival, but I've also just found a similar disconnected plug under my dash!
My wiring also seems to go to my depth warning buzzer and was curious as to what this may have been for on a little H180 Horizon? :?

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2011 Four Winns H180 SS.
Aussie built Mustang 2800.
SOLD - 1997 Four Winns Horizon RS


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 7:20 am 
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deafwish, I had the same wire disconnected under mine as well, It is a purple wire and .. I cant remember right off hand what color the other was. anyway they were unplugged when I found it and after I plugged them in and it kept the nav lights on constant I unplugged them again. All my instruments are working. :? This could be an interesting thread here...

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 26, 2013 3:19 am 
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My nav' lights would'nt turn on with this plug connected.
When I turned the nav' lights on from the control panel, it blows the fuse... :?
WTF?! :|

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2011 Four Winns H180 SS.
Aussie built Mustang 2800.
SOLD - 1997 Four Winns Horizon RS


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2013 9:02 pm 
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wkearney99

Joined: Fri May 19, 2006 3:50 pm
Posts: 2444
Location: Boat in Annapolis, live in Bethesda, MD
Electrical issues are bug hunts of the worst kind. I'd start by looking over all the helm and engine room wiring to find what's been patched. Something has be altered, and it's likely going to be done with non-standard splices or whatever. One other hint, open any connections you find and examine the contacts inside for any signs of overheating. That's one way to tell if something had a problem in the past. It might also shed light on what other parts of that circuit to check. Never underestimate just how badly electrical work can be done, by previous owners and even mechanics.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 3:41 pm 
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This wire was disconnected on my 268 as well. I suspect it is for an alternate model with dual engines, and feeds the IP +12V circuit of another bank of gauges, or is used for optional equipment that one wants to power with ignition switched power. Your voltage gauge fluctuation is likely caused by the fact that Four Winns decided to use a common ground return for the majority of the helm system. Any current draw from other devices will cause the ground wire to become more positive in respect to the true ground. This could be alleviated by running separate grounds to all the components back to the engine ground.


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