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| Problem solved? https://www.smwebhead.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=9954 |
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| Author: | MichaelB [ Mon Jul 30, 2012 8:11 am ] |
| Post subject: | Problem solved? |
We just returned from our Lake Michigan Crossing over the weekend and I had some problems in Pentwater that I thought I'd pass along in case anyone runs into this issue. Late last season I had problems with the port engine battery draining, I checked and tightened all connections, ran the isolator test, checked the volts coming off the alternator early this season and the problem did not return. We left on the 20th for Pentwater from Green Bay, the boat ran great, and again no issues with battery drain. Sunday the 22nd we went to leave for our next stop Frankfort and the port engine would not start. Changed fuel filter, still had problems. The tech on duty came down checked some connections and we got it started. On the way out of the channel it died, there was backfiring and sputtering so back to the dock we went, on the way back the fuel pump began to whine, so I left that engine off. Tech thought it was the fuel pump, it being Sunday, the part was ordered on Monday and arrived Tuesday for install. After replacing the pump, the engine started. I wanted to leave it running for a while and noticed right away the fuel pump was getting very hot to where you couldnt touch it. The tech swiched out the fuel assemblies on both engines, still got very hot. He replaced the connection to the fuel pump, still got hot. After discussing what had transpired last year he decided to try a different battery, and before he hooked it up he pulled both connections on the port alternator and discovered the ground had been painted over, he scraped off all the paint and re attached the ground. Engine fired fuel pump was cool, left it running for 45 minutes still cool. Re-attached the old battery, fired up and pump was cool. We tested it on Pentwater Lake up on plane a couple of times and had no problems. Boat ran fantastic up to Frankfort last Thursday, weather kept us in Frankfort for 2 days, and the boat ran great back to Green Bay. If you are having problems with a battery check the ground, even if its a tight connection scrape off all the paint if there is some. I'm guessing they came from the factory that way. Still some things I want to check into this off season but this seems to have solved my issue, hope. it helps someone else out there. |
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| Author: | neutron [ Mon Jul 30, 2012 10:25 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Problem solved? |
good news! a crappy ground can cause plenty of problems. I am surprised it didnt give you issues cranking at times. but I can see where it can cause major eletrical issues, At least it didn't cook your alternator. |
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| Author: | LouC [ Mon Jul 30, 2012 2:47 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Problem solved? |
Great feed back that will help someone else I am sure. One of the best things you can do with any boat even a fairly new one is go back and make sure the basics are good. Make sure the grounds on the engine are clean and tight (usually on the bell housing) and make sure the pos cable on the starter is also. I also like to see people get rid of the useless wing nuts to secure batt cables to the batts. Make up new cables have West Marine or another marine shop crimp on marine quality automotive style clamps, they have much more surface area and hold on a lot tighter. Cars don't use wingnuts for such an important connection, right? |
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| Author: | neutron [ Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:03 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Problem solved? |
I see your point, but with a car you dont remove the battery or disconnect it every year. over time an automotive one could wear out or break. I do agree about wing nuts though. I use stainless nuts with washers |
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| Author: | LouC [ Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:33 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Problem solved? |
I never take out my batts, in the fall I charge em up and maybe once over the winter. If they go dead in the spring then you need new ones anyway. Both the USCG and several engine manufacturers have come out against wing nuts. You can use nyloc nuts if you don't want to go to automotive style clamps. At least they will stay tight. |
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