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PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2016 3:55 pm 
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Location: NY
Looking for a well-cared for Horizon 180 or 190.

Requirements:
-Fiberglass construction (no wood)
-4 stroke w/ fuel injection

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2016 3:57 pm 
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Location: Lake St. Clair USA
You mention 4-stroke. Are you looking for an OB?

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2016 5:49 pm 
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Location: NY
Yes, if it's a four stroke with fuel injection.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 16, 2016 10:38 am 
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Location: West Palm Beach, FL
Well I certainly would not rule out the Evenrude ETEC 2 stroke. It is superior to the 4 strokes in some ways.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2016 2:34 pm 
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Location: NY
rpengr wrote:
Well I certainly would not rule out the Evenrude ETEC 2 stroke. It is superior to the 4 strokes in some ways.


I agree, I actually wasn't aware that the ETEC was a 2-stroke.

I test drove a 2013 H180OB with a 135 ETEC HO and it was a great engine from what I could tell. The only turn off I have to that is having to top off the oil tank every so often.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2016 2:51 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
That's much less of a turn off than winterizing and maintaining a stern drive and the Etec also needs less maintenance that a 4 stroke outboard in some ways (no timing belt to replace or valves to adjust).

They are self winterizing and in your area that's a great feature that will save a lot of $$$ over the years.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
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2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2016 9:48 pm 
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Location: NY
A marina about an hour and a half north of me has a 2016 H180 SS with an Evinrude 135HO.

I'm really not a fan of the tinted low profile windshield and red interior, however.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 18, 2016 9:43 pm 
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Location: Lake St. Clair USA
Misterfu02 wrote:
A marina about an hour and a half north of me has a 2016 H180 SS with an Evinrude 135HO.

I'm really not a fan of the tinted low profile windshield and red interior, however.

Come on now, all the cool kids are doing it...

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2016 12:35 pm 
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Location: NY
I found a 96 Horizon 170 for sale, asking price $ 4,800. Looks clean from the one picture the guy has uploaded of it:

http://rochester.craigslist.org/boa/5643288090.html

I'm messaging them now to investigate. Stay tuned.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2016 1:11 pm 
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Location: West Michigan
Misterfu02 wrote:
I found a 96 Horizon 170 for sale, asking price $ 4,800. Looks clean from the one picture the guy has uploaded of it:

http://rochester.craigslist.org/boa/5643288090.html

I'm messaging them now to investigate. Stay tuned.


I would suspect that boat has the 3.0L. Adequate at best. Get a newer model with OB power,
without VDO gauges, I/O maintenance and all the headaches. It's well worth the
presumed "savings" of a 20 year old boat IMO.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2016 1:30 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 04, 2013 6:28 am
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Location: South Carolina, USA
their are 2 ways to decide about old vs new,

Ok for sure new will depreciate rapidly over the first 5 years.
new has dealer service and warranty BUT you have a big payment or your bank account takes a blow.
used can cost you just as much as the financing on a new ride if it is BUSTED. BUT if you are mechanically sound and have the skills to do your own work and maintenance then old can save you a fortune.

No mater how you argue with me or whatever delusional thoughts you have ALL BOATS ARE MAINTENANCE HORES.

Do not buy the cheapest boat for the sake of buying the cheapest boat because that 3-5k savings could have put you a large step ahead in quality and features that in the long run will cost you less as that more expensive boat was better maintained in its life.

FOOD FOR THOUGHT.

also their is nothing worse than an under powered boat that cannot move its own ass.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2016 1:47 pm 
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Location: NY
It has the 4.3 GL.

It's very hard finding a used boat that was taken care of the same way that we take care of our mechanical assets. I know I am meticulous about care and maintenance. I daily drive a 10 year old economy car still shines like it was new, and when things break I fix them with OEM parts.

Finding an old bowrider that looks the same as it did as when it was on the showroom floor 10-20 years ago, and still has all OEM parts in good shape, is like finding a needle in a haystack. And you guys are right, sometimes it's worth it to spend a little more now to save headaches and money later on.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2016 2:56 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 16, 2006 9:49 am
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Location: West Michigan
Misterfu02 wrote:
It has the 4.3 GL.

It's very hard finding a used boat that was taken care of the same way that we take care of our mechanical assets.


It may very well be a well taken care of boat, pictures are not proof of that. Also, you mention in your opening post that you
want a fiberglass "wood free" boat, this 1996 is not wood free at all. Bring a moisture meter and hammer with you if you go look at it.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2016 3:26 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
These questions depend on your budget and how much fixing up you can tolerate. The older it is, the more unknowns there are, such as wood rot, fiberglass damage, certain engine parts become NLA (no longer available) etc. That one if it was really stored inside, and has no rot, could be a good deal. All fresh water use, another big plus. I re-habbed an older boat in a salt water area and trust me its a lot of work. Some don't mind and actually like it, but some will be soured on boating if they get involved in a deal like that. So ask yourself what you can handle first. While its true that all boats can be high maintenance, there is a world of difference between an old school I/O and a modern DI outboard that is self draining and can winterize itself (Etec). Plus the outboard will have better performance due to much lighter weight for comparable power (as in 450 lbs less on the stern) and being a 2 stroke outboard it can run at higher revs consistently than an old school I/O can.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2016 3:38 pm 
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Jdpber wrote:
Do not buy the cheapest boat for the sake of buying the cheapest boat because that 3-5k savings could have put you a large step ahead in quality and features that in the long run will cost you less as that more expensive boat was better maintained in its life.

FOOD FOR THOUGHT.

also their is nothing worse than an under powered boat that cannot move its own ass.

Ha, my mom and stepdad found that out the hard way about 5 years ago. They bought a ~1987 Chris-Craft bowrider for about $3,500. They found the boat on craigslist after doing exactly zero research and only going by a well-known brand name my mom remembered from growing up in Michigan. They bought it from a young guy who "refurbished" the boat with his "master mechanic dad" after the boat was found in some guy's muddy yard. This "master mechanic dad" was also telling my mom and stepdad to never pay for ANY marine parts as they are all exactly the same as the auto parts (starter, alternator, etc).

The $3,500 boat soon became a $7,000 to $8,000 boat after the engine had to be replaced soon after buying it. They should have just cut their losses and moved on but whatever. Worst of all, it is a 4-cylinder. At least my stepdad listened to me when I told him it would be a good idea to remove the spray paint from the anodes after he painted the outdrive.

I bet they could get $2,000 for it now, even after all that money they dropped into it. Think about how much better of a boat they could have had if they would have just expanded their initial budget to $8,000?

I learned from their lesson and did my research when we were ready to buy our first boat (see the H180 link in my signature).

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