Horizon 190: Add second battery or go with a "jump starter"?

deafwish · **Posted:** Mon Apr 15, 2013 2:53 am

Jdpber wrote:

Best way is all electrical is off a house battery bank and the start battery only starts.

Great advice!

ric · **Posted:** Mon Apr 15, 2013 8:27 am

Alternators don't care how much capacity they're charging as long as the draw is no greater than 80% of its rated output.

Example: the standard alt is 70a. It takes 30a to run the engine. 4a for stereo. 2a for lighting. That leaves you with 20 spare amps for accessories and/or charging.

If you're drawing 70a off a 70a alt guess what its not doing? Charging your battery..

I prefer just running two batteries in series because in one 12 hour day I can run every accessory with the motor off and still have tons of juice to start. If you have amps and stuff you probably want a switch.

rpengr · **Posted:** Mon Apr 15, 2013 12:21 pm

Hopefully the O.P. has come back and read some of this advise.

Walt · **Posted:** Mon Apr 15, 2013 12:24 pm

rpengr wrote:

Hopefully the O.P. has come back and read some of this advise.

Hopefully he realizes either option is a good one. :lol:

usje141 · **Joined:** Sat Apr 24, 2010 9:22 am **Posts:** 78

Hey guys, thanks for all of the feedback! I've been away on business so not able to post any comments but have been keeping up with the thread via my cell phone.

It appears to me that most of you feel a second battery is the best way to go but a "jump starter" would work as well. The model I was considering is a single purpose only: no inflator, light or anything else, just a jump starter. Apparently car dealerships buy them to use on their lots. This route has the advantage of being a bit lighter in weight (19 lbs) vs a marine battery.

Glad to see that the alternator is a non-issue as long as you run the boat long enough to recharge the batteries after a day on the water. Now, if you would bear with me (I'm not a mechanic or an electrician), if I go with a two battery set-up and a “1-both-2” switch, generally speaking I should use “1” when starting/operating the boat and switch to “2” when cranking the tunes while on the hook. Then on the way to our home port, I would switch to “both” to recharge both batteries. Correct?

You can buy a gadget that cuts off your battery when the reserve drops to a critical level but it costs about as much as a battery so that really is not an option in my opinion given my set-up. At this point I still have not yet decided which way to go...

Walt · **Posted:** Sat Apr 20, 2013 10:12 am

usje141 wrote:

....Now, if you would bear with me (I'm not a mechanic or an electrician), if I go with a two battery set-up and a “1-both-2” switch, generally speaking I should use “1” when starting/operating the boat and switch to “2” when cranking the tunes while on the hook. Then on the way to our home port, I would switch to “both” to recharge both batteries. Correct?

I start the boat, and switch batteries each outing, or weekend. Ie.... Start on "#1" today, switch to "both" as pulling away from dock, switch to "#2" when I drop anchor..... so next weekend would be Start on "#2", "both", then "#1". This way both batt's get start-cycles, and equally charged.

I recommend never leaving your switch on "both", unless you like 2 dead batts. I also have a battery charge indicator. See "Walt's Mod's" for my pics and details.

LouC · **Posted:** Sat Apr 20, 2013 10:26 am

If you're going to use one of those jump packs keep in mind that they have to be kept charged regularly or all it will be is dead weight in the back of your boat. Like I said I've had 3 different ones and been less than impressed. If you are going to keep the boat more than a year or two the second battery, a simple 1, 2, Both and Off switch is one of the best modifications you can make. Two dual purpose gp 27 batteries, and proper gauge marine battery cables AND lose the stupid wing nuts on the battery connections, use nylock nuts or, have regular clamps put on the battery cables. Wing nuts do not stay tight. Undersized batteries, cheap automotive grade cables (that corrode internally in a damp environment) and using wing nuts are responsible for 95% of no starts at the boat ramp.

As far as how to use the switch, the main thing to keep in mind is to never turn it to OFF while the engine is running, that could fry the alternator.
I just alternate the use of the batteries, I use #1 on one trip and then switch to #2 on the next. You can ride out on #1, switch to #2 to run the radio etc, then start on both to head in. Just don't leave it on Both with the engine off, reason being, if one batt starts to fail and go dead, it will pull current out of the good batt and maybe kill that one too. The point of the switch is to be able to isolate the batteries so you can always get started.

The reason why I recommend gp 27 dual purpose batteries is that they are a good compromise for small boats. They can crank a V-8 easily but can run loads like the radio easily and if drained down come back up to full charge more easily than a starting only batt. The starting batt gives the most cold cranking amps, but the dual purpose batt is more flexible for the way most boaters use them. So we go up one size from gp 24 to 27 to allow for the lower cranking amps of a dual purpose batt vs starting only batt.

rpengr · **Posted:** Sat Apr 20, 2013 11:37 am

Walt wrote:

I start the boat, and switch batteries each outing, or weekend. Ie.... Start on "#1" today, switch to "both" as pulling away from dock, switch to "#2" when I drop anchor..... so next weekend would be Start on "#2", "both", then "#1". This way both batt's get start-cycles, and equally charged.

I recommend never leaving your switch on "both", unless you like 2 dead batts.

+1
Of course you can leave on both while engine is running (charging), or for short periods of time (<1 hour) while stopped.

Also, before I cover my boat up after use, I turn on the blower, then turn off the battery switch. That way I am reminded to run the blower when I first turn on the battery switch.

usje141 · **Joined:** Sat Apr 24, 2010 9:22 am **Posts:** 78

OK, I'm sold on the second battery vs a "jump starter".

Last question: My current battery is a dual purpose 24. Is it a problem if I purchase a dp 27 for my second battery or should they be identical?

Thanks again for all of the great comments, information and feedback. I've never been left stranded but this summer the tunes will sound that much better knowing that I've got a back-up when the day comes to an end!

LouC · **Posted:** Sun Apr 21, 2013 6:59 pm

It wouldn't be a problem, the alt will charge it all the same. You might want to measure the space you have for the 2nd batt and keep in mind the gp 27 is a bit bigger. If its going to be too tight with the battery tray or box whatever you are using, then you can just get another 24.
You will like the sense of security of having the 2 batts. Just alternate use and do not leave the switch on BOTH when the boat is not in use.
Also depending on how far the 2nd battery is from the switch, you may have to up size the gauge of the wiring. I have my #1 batt on the starboard side by the starter and switch. So the usual 2 gauge batt cable is fine. But my #2 batt is on the port side and the wiring run including the ground to the engine on that side is 12 feet. So I upsized the wire to 1/0 which is much heavier than 2 gauge. The switch will have a bat 1 terminal, a bat 2 terminal and a common terminal. The common terminal gets connected to the starter solenoid.

deafwish · **Posted:** Sun Apr 21, 2013 10:11 pm

Good practice when back at home, is to individually charge each battery to full capacity with a quality/ computerised charger.
This will really prolong the life of your batteries.
p.s. CTek battery chargers are simple and excellent for battery management.

/captainobvious. :lol:

usje141 · **Joined:** Sat Apr 24, 2010 9:22 am **Posts:** 78

Thanks for the extra tips, LouC! I don't have twelve feet to cover but going with the heavier gage is worth it.

1+ on the CTek battery charger. Great product!

ric · **Posted:** Mon Apr 22, 2013 12:03 pm

Just to give u an idea... With my two 12v wired in series I had my anchor light, radio, and CO going all night and it started this morning as if it was just off the charger.

schoolsOut · **Posted:** Wed Apr 24, 2013 7:08 pm

I don't mean to highjack this thread, but I am unsure the "right" way to add a battery. I was going to add the blue sea automatic charging relay. I hear some saying to isolate starting and house loads. I am not sure exactly how to do that on my 210 horizon. Is that something that is more important on larger boats? Should I just go with a 1-2-both switch? Should I go with the 1-2-both along with an isolator or combiner? Or should I just use the blue sea system with the combiner and the off-on-combine switch? If I am using the blue sea combiner, then I guess it does not make sense to install a cranking battery and a deep cycle battery since there is no guarantee that the cranking battery will be doing the cranking and the deep cycle will be handling the house loads. In that case do I just install two identical batteries?

Jdpber · **Posted:** Wed Apr 24, 2013 7:41 pm

You should get a blue sea add a battery kit. Simple to the point idiot proof.

www.iFourWinns.com

Horizon 190: Add second battery or go with a "jump starter"?

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