Here is a photo sequence where I rebuilt my Raw Water Pump, including Bearing and Seal. Saved close to $250 over buying a new pump assembly...plus now it has a SST bearing.
(2000 Volvo Penta 5.7L, Brass Water Pump at front of engine, Harmonic Balancer Mount. 430 hours on engine)
Note: This procedure should not be done on a pump with excessive wear in the impeller cavity. Mine was in pretty good shape except for a bad bearing and seal. If the seal leaks, then assume the bearing is bad also because they used a steel bearing.
![Image](http://i1145.photobucket.com/albums/o512/rpengr-fw/20130727_122136_zps79e2d8b5.jpg)
Picture of front of engine with Water Pump removed. Leaky water pump has caused rust, and rusty pulleys, which also eat up the V-belts. Three bolts held the pump assy to the Harmonic Balencer. 5/16" Allen wrench to remove.
![Image](http://i1145.photobucket.com/albums/o512/rpengr-fw/20130727_122155_zps9b43a55f.jpg)
Pump housing removed (4 brass screws, 5/16" socket or flat blade screwdriver)
The Back of the rotating brass housing is still mounted on the Shaft. The Shaft is an integral part of the Pulley.
A small gear puller was required to disassemble. First I hooked the gear puller under the brass part...only hooked the teeth under the brass by about 1/8" so it hooks only the brass, but not the steel bearing.
Once the brass was removed, I used the gear puller to pull the Steel Bearing. It was quite a lot of force to get the bearing off the shaft...it was all that the little gear puller could do.
![Image](http://i1145.photobucket.com/albums/o512/rpengr-fw/20130728_115247_zps47681bd0.jpg)
This picture shows the parts.
Impeller kit VP# 21213660
Seal Kit VP# 827247
SST Bearing, SKF#6006-2RS ($55 at my local bearing shop)
The old Steel Bearing is shown (What were they thinking using steel here?)
Also shown is the pulley/shaft assembly after the bearing was removed.
![Image](http://i1145.photobucket.com/albums/o512/rpengr-fw/20130728_133142_zpsadaae316.jpg)
The new SST bearing ready to go in the brass housing. Turns out that my new bearing slipped right in without a press fit...it looks like the original was peened in. Note the marks at the top of the brass.
![Image](http://i1145.photobucket.com/albums/o512/rpengr-fw/20130728_133152_zps35555522.jpg)
The new SST bearing installed in the brass housing, with locktite...
![Image](http://i1145.photobucket.com/albums/o512/rpengr-fw/20130728_133602_zpsb0165724.jpg)
Then peened the brass with a center punch to lock the bearing in.
![Image](http://i1145.photobucket.com/albums/o512/rpengr-fw/20130728_135000_zps96b00ece.jpg)
Next I put the pulley/shaft assy in the freezer and chilled to around 15deg F. I left the brass housing and bearing at room temperature. With this temperature difference, I was able to push the two together by hand. I used a hammer and wood block to make sure it was all the way seated. (note the Frost on the Shaft and Pulley)
![Image](http://i1145.photobucket.com/albums/o512/rpengr-fw/20130728_140041_zps7ef8cbb4.jpg)
This pictures shows the new Lip Seal installed into the brass housing. The Seal is a hard rubber compound, so it is not too hard to push in. I pushed it in by placing a correctly sized washer over the seal, then placed a socket over the washer, then tapped it down with a hammer.
![Image](http://i1145.photobucket.com/albums/o512/rpengr-fw/20130728_142312_zpscd0e1465.jpg)
This is the Raw Water Pump fully assembled and ready to get some new paint before going back on the engine. Of course, the new impeller and O-ring was put in, lubricated with the glycerin that came with the 21213660 impeller kit.
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![Image](http://tinyurl.com/yc6eyl36)
"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings