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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 7:02 am 
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Location: Portland, CT
Okay, now I have more questions: if you have two dissimilar batteries, one a starter the second a deep cycle they both run through the same battery switch. If you start with battery A (the starter battery) then do you switch to ALL when running to keep both batteries charged? When switching to all you will most likely see a disruption of current as you pass from one contact to the other; isn’t this damaging to the batteries and the boats electrical system? If you start and run with just the starter battery is the deep cycle battery charged when on shore power? In my 22’ cuddy I had two starter batteries and would switch which one I used (odd/even) based on the calendar day (odd/even) not the most scientific method but it forced me into not becoming a creature of habit and use the same battery consistently.

I will have to make a call to my dealer and ask what types of batteries will be installed in the V248.

Regarding the question about CO:
With the specific gravity of CO being 0.9657 a small breeze, heat convection or differential in pressure from the cabins interior when compared to the outside pressure (Bernoulli’s principle) could result in CO entering a cabin. Once inside it will most likely move freely through the cabin and not sink to the lowest point.

In reference of the CO discussion this is a copied statement from FIRST ALERT CO manufacturer. Granted the levels that a marine unit and a home unit detect are different the theory is the same. SAFETY FIRST!
When considering where to place a carbon monoxide detector, keep in mind that although carbon monoxide is roughly the same weight as air (carbon monoxide's specific gravity is 0.9657, as stated by the EPA; the National Resource Council lists the specific gravity of air as one), it may be contained in warm air coming from combustion appliances such as home heating equipment. If this is the case, carbon monoxide will rise with the warmer air.
For this reason, the makers of First Alert (R), the leading brand in carbon monoxide detector technology, suggests mounting the detector on the ceiling. This also puts the detector out of the way of potential interference, such as pets or curious children.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 8:56 am 
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Andiamo
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Location: Hudson River, NY
Beachbob, I do not have the answers to all your questions, and they are Good Questions! The best one to ask is probably Jvalich, who really knows this stuff, but...As far as I know, you are O/K to start the boat on the cranking battery, and once started to switch to "Both" while running, AS LONG AS you do not turn it past the "OFF" position. Just go from "A" to "All" and you will be O/K! If you turn the switch to "OFF" while you are running the engine you may seriously damage your alternator.

As far as charging, I am pretty sure (Not 100%) that both batteries charge while running regardless of whether the switch is on "A"; "B" or "Both"! I'll have to re-read my manual.

All I know is that I always use "A" (which is a cranking battery) to start the boat, and I run it that way. When I stop to anchor for the day, I switch to the Deep Cycle "B" battery, and that easily lasts me 2 days running the Radio; CD Player, CO2 detectors, lights, and fridge (during the day only). When I need to use the blender or coffee maker I use the 3rd Deep cycle battery connected to an inverter. So Far, So Good!! Knock on Wood!

As far as CO2 is concerned, in addition to the ones that came with the boat, I keep a battery operated digital Co2 detector on the boat which is Great since you can easily see the Co2 levels on the digital display before the levels get high enough to sound off the alarms. The only time I have any problems is when I have the canvas up and I am tooling around not on plane and the exhust fumes back up into the boat (station wagon effect) then I start to see the Co2 levels increasing and I immediatly vent the boat. The levels quickly come back to normal.

I hope this helps, and does not cause more confusion.

Regards,
Jim.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 11:08 am 
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Dude, you need to download the manual from http://www.fourwinns.net. Most all of your questions can be answered by simply reading the manual , as well as many others you are sure to have. I know it's easier to have someone else answer questions for you, but there is some little bit of pride to know you learned this stuff on your own, and are prepared to get a new boat. Good idea to confirm what batteries will be put in your boat before you receive it.

Just a suggestion, not meant to criticize.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 5:20 pm 
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I didn’t realize that I could down load a manual.

The boat will come with one deep cycle and one starter battery.

Thanks “dude”

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 5:26 pm 
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268 Vista

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:lol: You're welcome.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 8:05 pm 
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Whatever
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Location: Salt Lake, Utah
Beachbob wrote:
Thanks for all the information on the generators. I am still confused about one thing, the amount of time I can expect to run the bare necessities over a weekend on just the batteries. This being said I realize that the generator is needed to run the big draw items: AC/Heat, microwave and coffee pot but what about normal cabin items. Specifically the refrigerator, it will run the entire weekend along with lights, radio and the water heater (I assume?). These items are all new to me; we had a 22’ cuddy and the batteries would last a entire weekend running the lights and radio. As they say the bigger the boat the bigger the draw. In the past I would run on both batteries but when on the hook we would live off one of the two batteries; this would always leave one fresh for starting.



It is hard to say how long 'your' batteries will last you on a weekend trip. It depends on how old they are, what size they are, and 'your' power consumption. Water heater is 110v BTW.

I can go for approx 3-4 day in my 5th wheel boondocking, thats with (2) 27 series batteries, but the fridge runs off of propane. In the boat where the fridge runs off the batteries, I get approx 1-2 days off a charge, depending on how hot it is.
If you don't run the fridge, I would expect you would get the same results as your last boat, as long as you are running the same number of lights, speakers, ect... as your last boat, along with using the same size batteries.

I highly recomend the Honda EU2000 gen set, has worked out perfect for us on the boat, RV, and at home. Very quiet, light, dependable, runs 12 hour on 1 gallon of fuel, and its a honda. I have had our EU 2000 since '02 and not a problem with it what so ever.

Your buying what I consider to be one of the 'best' boats out there today, why would you consider anything but the best for a gen set??? Honda is your only choice, IMHO.

Good luck

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Last edited by powellcrazy on Sun Mar 02, 2008 8:55 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 8:15 pm 
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The Real Dr.Evil
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I am in completele agreement with PowellCrazy on this.

Another thing to keep in mind (and save battery power) get the fridge cold at home while in the driveway on shorepower. Then put the items in the fridge at home and let them get cold. Cold items in the fridge help the fridge work less. Then back the thermostat down some, I usually run around 3 during the day, at night I shut the fridge off, it will stay cold all night on it's own just by insulation factor.

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