Opinions Needed

Cap'n Morgan · **Posted:** Wed Jul 09, 2014 12:43 pm

ric wrote:

It reads "Undiluted bleach"

Nothing about bleach based cleaners.

Nice attempt at back-pedaling. Did not work. They did not even mention bleach based cleaners, since they obviously do not recommend them.
I pity the fool that buys anything you ever owned.

Jdpber, sounds like you are on the right track ! Good Luck with your plans.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Wed Jul 09, 2014 1:11 pm

I am thinking a henge similar to this that has a low profile. allows for full 90+ opening and will lay flat. Along with not snagging body parts or being visually disturbing. and at $12 a pop they do not break the bank. in the past 2 hours this is the best hinge that I have found not he multiple boat hardware sites that I use.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Wed Jul 09, 2014 1:18 pm

looks like a similar hinge to this was used on this 190 with the other style rear.

ric · **Posted:** Wed Jul 09, 2014 1:20 pm

Cap'n Morgan wrote:

ric wrote:

It reads "Undiluted bleach"

Nothing about bleach based cleaners.

Nice attempt at back-pedaling. Did not work. They did not even mention bleach based cleaners, since they obviously do not recommend them.
I pity the fool that buys anything you ever owned.

Jdpber, sounds like you are on the right track ! Good Luck with your plans.

Well hm. That's funny. Strange how I had Omnova warranty replace some of the vinyl on my Stingray and it was recommended to use a bleach based cleaner by them.

LouC · **Posted:** Wed Jul 09, 2014 4:10 pm

With the hinges, the kind that FW used on the older boats at least we're an aluminum wrap around hinge. That sun pad weighs a LOT trust me I've had it off to fix the rotted core. You need something more substantial that those.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Wed Jul 09, 2014 7:37 pm

LouC wrote:

With the hinges, the kind that FW used on the older boats at least we're an aluminum wrap around hinge. That sun pad weighs a LOT trust me I've had it off to fix the rotted core. You need something more substantial that those.

An example picture would be great.

The second set I posted are 6" stainless steel which is much stronger than aluminum.

LouC · **Posted:** Thu Jul 10, 2014 5:16 am

www.wolfsmarine.com
Look in marine fasteners, double wrap hinges. They are much wider and can be installed with more fasteners. I had these as OE in mine and they lasted over 20 years then the Alu started cracking so I replaced them with the same style.
Also consider adding wood backing behind the glass to keep the glass from getting stressed. Same where the gas strut mounts. I added 2 4x4 pieces of 1/2 in ply for the area behind the strut mount. The area for the sun pad hinges had some backing from the factory. Struts did not .

Jdpber · **Posted:** Thu Jul 10, 2014 2:33 pm

Well after a day of searching endless boats on Al Gore's Interwebz i think that i have made a decision on the design and styling.. Still a few little details to work out. But I think with the help of my best friend and a great boat worker we have formulated a plan of attack for the designs. This evening I plan to take detailed measurements so that while i am in europe for a couple weeks i can work on the plans for the modification..

This is what i have now. the SunSport interior with slide out second sun deck.. i feel that it is useless..

I found that the Crownline 235ss sun deck hatch and rear seat was the closest to what i have envisioned as the best use of the space for function and easy maintenance on the engine.

Note the starboard side removable walk thru i will come back to this idea in a moment, hand tight

now these walls seem a tads thick but like the hinge

this is a better storage design for maximizing space.

SO as for the walk thru, Crownline and a few other brands do a center section take out.. well i am not so keen on this for a couple reasons. A) it makes 3 cushions, B) no one can continue to lay out on the sun deck. But if it is to the starboard side (the side i prefer to dock on bc SOLO i can reach out and grab a cleat when by myself. This is my preferred enter and exit side of the boat and is logical to me.

where as this is a middle walk thru and you can see what i am saying about rendering the pad useless when at anchor.

I have also after much consideration and hunting around decided on a latch system, for the hatch. I plan to use 2 soft draw latches in SS with rubber incasement. One on each side similar to the locations that the crownline uses ing the 2nd & 3rd pictures. i have used these latches before and know the compact quality that they contain. I want to do this for a couple of reasons. 1) a center pen style will be difficult wight he full back rest attached to the hatch, and will heave a stub that is ready to stab me int he chest or duty while working on the motor or tear clothing. 2) i feel side latches will be easier to make the back rest seamless and fluid seams without obstructions. 3) 2 latches is better than one.

In closing i plan to have the hatch lift closer to 75* than the shown 30-45* being that i am over 6' tall I like engine room space. Plus if i am designing it how i please i desire a greater opening.

Another benefit of the full back rest attached to the hatch Vs this (BELOW) style of half backrest design that i was originally thinking will eliminate the need for a middle removable section that would have placed a weak point on the structure.

as you can see in the First picture my transom side is notched for the vents. well this will go BYE BYE and be a solid edge like this. In addition to the NOTCHLESS transom edge (pictured below) i plan to THICKEN the padding and height of the hatch to be level with the sides of the boat as pictured BELOW generating a taller more supportive back rest for the passengers.

Ok i think that is enough for this post.

rpengr · **Posted:** Thu Jul 10, 2014 3:17 pm

Wow, your current configuration is really different. I see what you mean now by "Slide Out second sun deck". That thing takes up all your potential storage space.

Mine has what I describe as a "Futon" style second sun deck. This is the only picture of it that I have handy:

The Seat Bottom can be lifted up to reveal storage area below (divided into 3 compartments). The Seat Bottom can also be lifted slightly, then slid forward about 1 ft. The lower backrest then follows it out and lays down to make a nearly flat 2nd sun pad. Alternatively, the lower backrest can be tilted forward enough that I can reach my battery switch, which is on the front of the bulkhead. I have thought about adding a removable panel in front of the waterpump. This would make impeller changes easy, as the sliding parts of the bench seat can be removed with 4 screws.

One problem with mine, is the Upper Backrest is fixed in place. Your idea of attaching this part to the top (like Crownline) would make engine access better. Another problem with mine is a lack of walk-through. So we must step on the upholstery to get in and out. Beach towels help with this.

Combining the Crownline idea with my configuration could give you the second sun deck, and the ample storage space. I can get pictures of the sliding mechanism if you want. It is very simple (shoulder screws, and starboard panels with slots). The second sun deck is good for activities that don't involve clothes

My (upper) sun deck is flush to the top of the boat. That looks very good, and leaves ton's of storage space next to the engine. (I can put two large plastic bins on each side) In your case, it looks like making it flush would also make it slant to the rear, which kind of kills it as a sun deck. Perhaps you want to make the aft end flush, and the front end nearly level to the back.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Thu Jul 10, 2014 9:56 pm

For starters yes I realize the sunpad will be at angle if it is completely level with the gunnel. After measuring tonight If I have the foam 2" or so thick like I want, the front will be 3-3.5" below the gunnel when the sunpad is level at rest when level waterline.

I do not want or need the second sun pad, I plan to have under seat storage big enough for a cooler.

As for "action with the wife" I am making the bow inserts for the full bow fill. Mainly intended for the baby first mate to play.

Tomorrow I plan to start tossing the design into the computer if I have time before my flight to Paris.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Fri Jul 11, 2014 10:29 am

A) love how the new design not he computer with live dimensions for the redesigned SUnpad and bench storage is going..

So far i have gained 12cu/ft of under bench storage that is tall enough for a 28qt Igloo cooler for the beach. I will have to test the height of the 38qt i feel that 20" is too tall for a back of knee seat height. but i can toss 2 28s in and problem solved lol or find a shorter cooler.

B) i have gained 6" in the engine bay so now i have room for a future BB.
C I have gained 3.5" of cockpit space.

SO over all my plan is falling together and the starts are aligning.

I am not going to know what to do with myself with this added volume of dry storage. I am sure the wife will fill it with something.. maybe i can keep it a secret and she will not try and take the entire hose to the beach with us.. :roll:

rpengr · **Posted:** Fri Jul 11, 2014 10:45 am

Jdpber wrote:

So far i have gained 12cu/ft of under bench storage that is tall enough for a 28qt Igloo cooler for the beach. I will have to test the height of the 38qt i feel that 20" is too tall for a back of knee seat height. but i can toss 2 28s in and problem solved lol or find a shorter cooler.

It would be interesting to test your line of sight from that height. My bench seat fairly low. It is super comfortable with high backrest, but you cannot see where you are going (over the bow) when sitting back there. Passengers don't care, but when I let someone else drive, I want to monitor their driving.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Fri Jul 11, 2014 11:46 am

rpengr wrote:

Jdpber wrote:

So far i have gained 12cu/ft of under bench storage that is tall enough for a 28qt Igloo cooler for the beach. I will have to test the height of the 38qt i feel that 20" is too tall for a back of knee seat height. but i can toss 2 28s in and problem solved lol or find a shorter cooler.

It would be interesting to test your line of sight from that height. My bench seat fairly low. It is super comfortable with high backrest, but you cannot see where you are going (over the bow) when sitting back there. Passengers don't care, but when I let someone else drive, I want to monitor their driving.

Well this is what it looks like at the moment. (NOT DONE) the seat height will be higher than original which I hope results in a good line of sight. i guess i can boost up and test it out after Europe and report my findings with the wife driving. The seat bottom will have a 4" offset hinge that will allow it to not rest on the overlap calf bolster.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Mon Jul 28, 2014 7:22 am

ok so I have a new Question for the MASSES.. how is the seal on others engine hatch.. At the present my boat has no seal at the edges against the gunnels and if i am washing the boat or say it rains while we are out the sun pad side gaps go maybe 1/8-1/4" allow water down into the side floors next to the engine. So i would love to see some pictures of any seals or rain gutter troths that are int he engine area.. my thoughts are to glass in a split 1/2" glass tube so it is a 1/2" wide 1/2" deep water gutter that would carry the water to the 2 back corners and out frail holes attached to 1/4" hose routed to the bilge. SO far this is the best solution that i can come up with. As i am not fighting a flood simply a couple cups of water now and again i feel that this could solve the issue... mainly i do not want the water not he deck making carpet soggy, mildew, stain, rot the floor.

rpengr · **Posted:** Mon Jul 28, 2014 7:41 am

Jdpber wrote:

ok so I have a new Question for the MASSES.. how is the seal on others engine hatch.. At the present my boat has no seal at the edges against the gunnels and if i am washing the boat or say it rains while we are out the sun pad side gaps go maybe 1/8-1/4" allow water down into the side floors next to the engine. So i would love to see some pictures of any seals or rain gutter troths that are int he engine area.. my thoughts are to glass in a split 1/2" glass tube so it is a 1/2" wide 1/2" deep water gutter that would carry the water to the 2 back corners and out frail holes attached to 1/4" hose routed to the bilge. SO far this is the best solution that i can come up with. As i am not fighting a flood simply a couple cups of water now and again i feel that this could solve the issue... mainly i do not want the water not he deck making carpet soggy, mildew, stain, rot the floor.

Mine has no seal or gutters, but like you said, it's not much water that gets through. But a 1/2 x 1/2 gutter and 1/4" tube sounds too small to me. My previous boat had a doghouse engine cover with no seal at the back, so water would drip on the engine. I added a 1" x 2" aluminum channel as a gutter to bring this water to either side of the engine. I would suggest 1" x 1" minimum (and at least 5/8" tube?)

www.iFourWinns.com

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