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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 12:35 pm 
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Hello all.

I just installed the new engine and have been trying to get it started so I can begin the break in period and get wakeboarding! Main issue currently is when I have timing light hooked to lead that goes from coil to distributor cap, I've got a good fast strobe first couple seconds of cranking engine but then it begins to be intermittent.

I have done quite a few things trouble shooting the ignition so forgive me for a long post. First I replaced the points/condenser with the Hot Spark igniter and recently tested the coil and it tested bad (open in primary coil) so I replaced that. I still had a spark that was only temporary (right when I started to crank the engine, then spark went away or got too weak for timing light to pick up).

Turned out that purple wire from solenoid to + side of coil was loose. It was loose because the small stud that is on the solenoid was turning in the solenoid. I removed wire, tightened nut on base of that stud until it was snug and no longer wiggled then cleaned and firmly reattached purple wire.

That really helped as I got a much more consistent spark but it the strobes on my timing light continue to get inconsistent after a few seconds. The engine wants to start but I can tell the spark isn't either strong enough or consistent enough to start it and keep it running. It is almost as if the starter might be drawing so much current, the spark cannot develop...maybe a starter going bad??

Well...no that's not it because what makes the engine start is a 14 gauge wire jump from + battery to + coil. Good strong spark, engine runs great. So, what does this mean I need to find an open in? I found that one of two gray wires from NEG side of coil is loose and don't know where it goes...Not sure if it is the tach wire or the "other" gray wire...I see in my Clymer manual where the gray wires are supposed to go but the diagram is so vague I don't know where they actually, physically are suppose to go.

Thanks for the help gents (and ladies)

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1983 Wellcraft 248 Sportsman, 3.0L OMC Sea Drive "Born Again"
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 1:00 pm 
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If what you did was replace the points n condenser with an electronic unit then there are other things you have to change to make it work (ESA, possibly resistance wire?)
Personally I'd put the points back in and go boating. There is nothing wrong with points, we drove with them in our cars for many years. Yes they need maintenance but for me a set lasts at least 5 seasons. You can fix it with a feeler gauge and a screwdriver out on the water if it fails. Not so with electronic.

Re the ESA, if you don't put in an ESA unit that can work with electronic ignition (CDI electronics sells them) you won't be able to shift to neutral from fwd or rev because the ESA will not lower the idle enough to get the clutch dog to release the gear.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 1:30 pm 
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LouC wrote:
If what you did was replace the points n condenser with an electronic unit then there are other things you have to change to make it work (ESA, possibly resistance wire?)
Personally I'd put the points back in and go boating. There is nothing wrong with points, we drove with them in our cars for many years. Yes they need maintenance but for me a set lasts at least 5 seasons. You can fix it with a feeler gauge and a screwdriver out on the water if it fails. Not so with electronic.

Re the ESA, if you don't put in an ESA unit that can work with electronic ignition (CDI electronics sells them) you won't be able to shift to neutral from fwd or rev because the ESA will not lower the idle enough to get the clutch dog to release the gear.


There are resistors and a couple diodes you wire in to the wire to the ESA so I'm not too worried about that right now. I am going to carry the point and condenser with me on the boat so if that igniter should fail I'll be able to swap it out and make it back to the ramp.

I am just trying to figure out what I need to replace to get the engine to start without having to jump from batt POS to coil POS. I would hardwire it but then have to pull it everytime you want to cut the engine off!! I'd rather just use the key :wink:

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1987 Sundowner 195, 4.3 OMC " Z boat"
1983 Wellcraft 248 Sportsman, 3.0L OMC Sea Drive "Born Again"
9' Patriot 40lbs TM "Quack Addict"


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 7:50 pm 
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Does the engine fire at all :?: You could be 180 out on the distributor. just a thought

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 10:18 pm 
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fiznuka wrote:
Does the engine fire at all :?: You could be 180 out on the distributor. just a thought


Yeah it fires. It wants to start but just won't catch because the spark dies out. Ill have the timing light hooked to wire going from coil to dizzy and Ill get a good strong fast flash at first and then it starts to skip sparks, then it is only once every couple seconds. No particular cylinder either.
I think the I will test the ignition switch tomorrow since I believe what is happening is the starter solenoid isn't giving the coil A)either enough juice to keep a spark and there is an open in the ignition switch so it aint doing its part, or B) that loose gray wire needs to go somewhere and that's preventing all the required voltage from getting to and staying on coil..... A quick test of the ignition switch tomorrow will tell me. I know they go bad and I hope that's what it is since it'll be cheap and easy!!! 8)

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1987 Sundowner 195, 4.3 OMC " Z boat"
1983 Wellcraft 248 Sportsman, 3.0L OMC Sea Drive "Born Again"
9' Patriot 40lbs TM "Quack Addict"


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 10:31 pm 
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one of the gray wires go to the ESA mod the other goes to the tach on the dash i would double check the dist make sure its not out 180 like fiznuka said

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 10:45 pm 
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crossram wrote:
one of the gray wires go to the ESA mod the other goes to the tach on the dash i would double check the dist make sure its not out 180 like fiznuka said


I've checked and rechecked. The engine had #1 at TDC when I bought it but I went head and redid the whole timing sequence. Also, when it does spark, the timing light gives me a good timing mark...not sure if it's exactly 0* but it's very close. In addition to this, like my original post said, when I put a jumper between + coil and + battery it started and ran great. I let it run for about 30 seconds but shut it down in fear of overheating the coil.

Yeah, Im just not sure where to look to find out which one has the gray wire already. It does have a small ring terminal on it like it goes to a small post...something with like a 10mm nut on it. I see it on the diagram in the manual but I don't know where they physically are.

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1987 Sundowner 195, 4.3 OMC " Z boat"
1983 Wellcraft 248 Sportsman, 3.0L OMC Sea Drive "Born Again"
9' Patriot 40lbs TM "Quack Addict"


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 10:57 pm 
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jumping the coil wont hurt it , thats all the ignition does is open the system to allow 12 volts to the coil did you check the connection at the harness by the alt. my wiring diagram also shows a gray wire to the dist on some models

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Last edited by crossram on Sat Jul 19, 2014 11:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 11:06 pm 
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crossram wrote:
jumping the coil wont hurt it , thats all the ignition does is open the system to allow 12 volts to the coil did you check the connection at the starter solenoid and the harness by the alt


Yes sir, like I said I removed the purple wire from the solenoid, tightened that stud, cleaned it and firmly reattached it. The alternator purple is a good, clean connection too.

I read that jumping it like that is fine temporarily but could overheat the coil if done too long. Mine was still cool as a cucumber though...either way, it ran for plenty long enough for me to see and hear it runs awesome.

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1987 Sundowner 195, 4.3 OMC " Z boat"
1983 Wellcraft 248 Sportsman, 3.0L OMC Sea Drive "Born Again"
9' Patriot 40lbs TM "Quack Addict"


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 11:09 pm 
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Sorry I seen that you fixed that after i sent the post

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 11:21 pm 
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No worries!! I know it was a long post with lots of info. I've just got the two. One is either going to ESA or main harness that goes up front to coil and the other is loose. The way the wire is bent (from being attached to one place for years) it wants to naturally wrap around the starboard side of engine, toward the top...maybe by the ESA? This is where the manual is vague...it has shapes for where these wires go but these shapes are not labeled as to what they are!!!!
I've got a PDF factory service manual but it's tough to look at...I get a headache staring at the pages scrolling by. Reminds me of a micro-fiche in the library back in the day

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1987 Sundowner 195, 4.3 OMC " Z boat"
1983 Wellcraft 248 Sportsman, 3.0L OMC Sea Drive "Born Again"
9' Patriot 40lbs TM "Quack Addict"


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 11:35 pm 
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one esa and other is tach. you have 12 volts at the coil until you crank it over then it drops out ?

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 11:53 pm 
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try unhooking both gray wires and see what happens

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 4:07 am 
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204Angler wrote:
crossram wrote:
one of the gray wires go to the ESA mod the other goes to the tach on the dash i would double check the dist make sure its not out 180 like fiznuka said


I've checked and rechecked. The engine had #1 at TDC when I bought it but I went head and redid the whole timing sequence. Also, when it does spark, the timing light gives me a good timing mark...not sure if it's exactly 0* but it's very close. In addition to this, like my original post said, when I put a jumper between + coil and + battery it started and ran great. I let it run for about 30 seconds but shut it down in fear of overheating the coil.

Yeah, Im just not sure where to look to find out which one has the gray wire already. It does have a small ring terminal on it like it goes to a small post...something with like a 10mm nut on it. I see it on the diagram in the manual but I don't know where they physically are.


can you trace this wire back in the harness and see if its got a bad connection or grounding out somewhere....

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 4:07 am 
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204Angler wrote:
crossram wrote:
one of the gray wires go to the ESA mod the other goes to the tach on the dash i would double check the dist make sure its not out 180 like fiznuka said


I've checked and rechecked. The engine had #1 at TDC when I bought it but I went head and redid the whole timing sequence. Also, when it does spark, the timing light gives me a good timing mark...not sure if it's exactly 0* but it's very close. In addition to this, like my original post said, when I put a jumper between + coil and + battery it started and ran great. I let it run for about 30 seconds but shut it down in fear of overheating the coil.

Yeah, Im just not sure where to look to find out which one has the gray wire already. It does have a small ring terminal on it like it goes to a small post...something with like a 10mm nut on it. I see it on the diagram in the manual but I don't know where they physically are.


can you trace this wire back in the harness and see if its got a bad connection or grounding out somewhere....

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


Top
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