outdrive bellow, corrosion, painting etc

jontmiller · **Joined:** Thu Jul 26, 2012 8:16 am **Posts:** 296

Pic heavy post.... I removed the drive today which went better than I could have hoped.

I have owned the boat 2 full seasons and this is the first time removing the drive, I had assumed I would change out the bellows and such just to get a known date on it. But from my amateur inspection everything looks pretty darned good. There is a pool of oil/grease but no water in the drive bellows,...maybe the oil is a bad sign? Exhaust definitely had water in it but I wonder if that didn't get in when I was wiggling it around in the rain to get it off. The universal joint looks pretty darned good to me as well.

Corrosion looks bad but I wonder how bad is bad, should I bring it to a shop and have it stripped and painted? While I might be able to get it done its not something I have ever tried in the past.

aside from my drive dolly falling apart (the ikea base wood just wasn't up to the task) it was a good day.

Whats the best way to cover up the rest for the winter...tight trash bag?

Posting here for thoughts and opinions....also have a good lead on a trailer so here's to hoping

IMG_1588.JPG by millerjont, on Flickr

IMG_1586.JPG by millerjont, on Flickr

IMG_1585.JPG by millerjont, on Flickr

IMG_1584.JPG by millerjont, on Flickr

IMG_1583.JPG by millerjont, on Flickr

IMG_1582.JPG by millerjont, on Flickr

IMG_1587.JPG by millerjont, on Flickr

LouC · **Posted:** Thu Oct 16, 2014 4:01 pm

Well you've got some work to do there...
Are you sure that what's in the driveshaft bellows is NOT water mixed with gear oil, or grease from the gimble bearing?
If its gear oil did you look for water in the gear lube? Normally it comes out first from the drain hole because oil is less dense than water and the water will go down to the bottom.
What you might need to have done is to get the input shaft seal where the driveshaft goes into the upper gear housing, replaced. The gear oil leaks out of the drive and winds up in the driveshaft bellows when you trim the drive up. I'd get the drive pressure tested and have any seals that are leaking fixed over the winter. Take a good look all round that seal, to see if you see signs of gear oil leaking, it doesn't look like it though from what I could see.
If there was any water in the driveshaft bellows you need to replace the bellows.
The drive has some corrosion but you can take care of that over the winter.
Its a good thing you took it off, sooner or later it would be low on drive oil if in fact that input shaft seal was leaking. Also, they can get corroded on because there is no gasket between the drive and the pivot housing.

When you re-install, grease up the u-joints (they look new BTW) and grease the gimble while rotating it by hand. Then you can feel if there is any roughness there. If so it needs to be replaced too. Also grease the driveshaft splines with OMC triple guard grease or similar and put a coating of the same grease on the mating surface of the upper gear housing and the pivot housing. This helps prevent corrosion there.

BTW what the heck happened to your drive stand in the last pic LOL....
Ok read your explanation...you need a more beefy one. I built my first one out of 2x6s and the second one was a steel one that I bought from Stumpy's Fab Works, very nice piece of equipment.

jontmiller · **Joined:** Thu Jul 26, 2012 8:16 am **Posts:** 296

I haven't drained the gear oil yet...was planning on doing that in the garage but now have to build a stand first

For what its worth last year it was clean and dry.

not absolutely sure there's no water in that puddle but a scientific finger rubbing around in it sure felt more oil and no obvious water less it is in suspension. Big blob of grease that I think is from me trying to service the gimbal bearing at the beginning of the season. Ran out of time today but will investigate the gimbal bearing before reassembly as well.

I figure replacing the bellows is only prudent...I'm thinking doing it while the drive is off will allow me to leave the drive on next winter then go every other.

Where is the best place to order what I need for next season re-assemble (gaskets, grease etc)

Thanks for looking.

Surface Interval · **Posted:** Thu Oct 16, 2014 8:09 pm

Jon, the outdrive holds approximately 2.5 to 2.75 quarts of oil. The oil in the driveshaft bellows is from the outdrive because the driveshaft seal is leaking. The quantity in the picture is not overwhelming, but it would be a good idea to replace the seal wen you can. Having the drive off for the winter may be a good time to change the seal and get the corrosion taken care of. If you chase the corrosion, you might want to take the gimbal brackets off and work on them also. If you dig in to the outdrive yourself you should get a manual. You may be able to find one on line to download or view on line. The bevel gears in the drive are shimmed for correct clearance. Since the boat and drive have a few birthdays, the gears may need to be re-shimmed.

Here is a website for a manual:

http://boatinfo.no/lib/volvo/manuals/sx ... ve.html#/0

Hope this helps.

Gary

LouC · **Posted:** Fri Oct 17, 2014 5:56 am

I like to find a local dealer that services that make for buying parts. Then once I've been buying stuff from them for a while, they will give some advice that is helpful to beginning do it yourselfers. Otherwise, I get OMC stuff from Crowley Marine in Colorado.
The bellows, I'd use an OE one. They fit better and last longer. A new bellows under most conditions can last as long as 10 years.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Fri Oct 17, 2014 8:26 am

i would media blast it with baking soda down to alum all over clean clean.. then a good base coating of ZinChromate Aluminum etching primer. then a coat of gray high build primer smooth sand that. lay one last coat of gray primer. then a good 5 or so coats of the Volvo Gray top paint.. this is how i did my drive and it is rock hard..

LouC · **Posted:** Fri Oct 17, 2014 5:34 pm

Got a question for you...I know that you replaced your Cobra drive at some point, could you post where you got it from? I don't need a new one mine is still fine but I like to have multiple sources if something happens....

jontmiller · **Joined:** Thu Jul 26, 2012 8:16 am **Posts:** 296

thanks everyone....someday maybe I will have enough experience to lend a hand to other newcomers

LouC · **Posted:** Sun Oct 19, 2014 11:09 am

If you want to make the install easier in the spring, get a hold of one of these, it helps you get the height exactly right...
Stumpy's Fab Works, somewhere out in the Midwest....

https://www.dropbox.com/s/nbiqnmzm0zmlt ... 5.jpg?dl=0

Don't forget to smear some OMC/BRP triple guard grease on the nose of the gear carrier on the upper gear housing (it seals up against the bellows lip) and all around the lip of the bellows where the gear carrier pushes against the bellows. Also all around the mounting holes where the drive meets the pivot housing.

EvilZ · **Posted:** Sun Oct 19, 2014 4:45 pm

LouC wrote:

If you want to make the install easier in the spring, get a hold of one of these, it helps you get the height exactly right...
Stumpy's Fab Works, somewhere out in the Midwest....

Here you go - pretty cool tool!
http://stumpysfabworks.weebly.com/boat-outdrive-jack.html

Graham R · **Posted:** Sun Oct 19, 2014 5:14 pm

Lovely, makes my wood based one I've used for 12 years seem crude.

Regardless of price in the US , I'm sure if I imported one it'd be at least USD 1,000.

GottWhat · **Posted:** Sun Oct 19, 2014 5:50 pm

EvilZ wrote:

LouC wrote:

If you want to make the install easier in the spring, get a hold of one of these, it helps you get the height exactly right...
Stumpy's Fab Works, somewhere out in the Midwest....

Here you go - pretty cool tool!
http://stumpysfabworks.weebly.com/boat-outdrive-jack.html

Think I'll ask for this as my xmas and/or birthday gift from my wife.

firecadet613 · **Posted:** Sun Oct 19, 2014 6:56 pm

Pricey! I took a 2'x8'x8" and cut it into four equal parts. Screw it together. Put four casters on it, and its perfect. Used it with my 268, and gave it to Bliss36 as I doubt I'll ever use it with the 318.

They are spot on with the above advise in regards to painting the drive.

jontmiller · **Joined:** Thu Jul 26, 2012 8:16 am **Posts:** 296

Well I pretty much assured the engine will blow up next season...

Dropped the boat off to get the floor rehabbed, new carpet and a new cover.... will post after shots in a few weeks. As much as I would like to pretend I could do this myself I'm gonna spend the time it would take me doing something I am good at .... my job....

IMG_1607.JPG by millerjont, on Flickr

IMG_1608.JPG by millerjont, on Flickr

IMG_1611.JPG by millerjont, on Flickr

LouC · **Posted:** Mon Oct 20, 2014 4:57 pm

Just a suggestion....get the 'glass shop to do a good enough job on the deck, to allow you to ditch the carpet, because that's what makes it rot in the first place. Carpet that holds moisture and holes drilled for seat bases etc not sealed. That's how I did mine and I am so glad I did. It dries out and is as solid as it was when I did it 7 years ago. You can leave the carpet on the gunnels , but carpet has no place in an open boat with a plywood cored deck. At all.

www.iFourWinns.com

outdrive bellow, corrosion, painting etc

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