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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 10:41 am 
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Good tip rpengr! I took measurements of where the engine was sitting on the top nuts that are threaded onto the bolt so I can get the height correct when we re-install.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 11:38 am 
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Here's that pic! The Ford just hangn' out with my good budy (another four winns owners).

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 12:46 pm 
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Location: Bush River, Maryland
tymorrissette wrote:
Well with some help from a few good friends removing the engine from the boat was not that difficult. Have the right tools on hand made it pretty quick (about an hour). A few tips for folks in the future:

1) Because of the location of the attachment points on the engine for lifting the engine wants to roll to the left (when looking at the engine). This makes the engine get hung up on the front motor mounts which are just two long threaded rods that fit into very tight fitting holes on the engine. To solve this we had one person push DOWN on the right side of the engine while another person used a pry bar to lift UP on the left side. This process worked together so the engine would come up nice and straight and over the mounts.

2) My setup (beam 134" from the ground) was about the minimum height I would build this setup again to raise the engine high enough to get it out of the boat. I had about 3" of extra "lift" left in the chain hoist above what I needed to get the bottom of the oil pan over the edge in the boat. I was proud I did all the math right the first time :D

3) To attach the engine to an engine stand means you need to remove the starter, flywheel housing, flywheel, flywheel cover and flywheel coupling. Pretty much everything that would be where the transmission would attach in a regular car engine. This was more than I was initially expecting but was not hard at all.

I have a picture of my engine swinging in the breeze and I'll post it later.


A load leveler like the one in the link is helpful for addressing number 1.

http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive ... veler.html

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 6:18 am 
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tymorrissette wrote:
Well we really have a hole in the boat now! More to come...

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awesome picture !

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1998 four Winns Horizon H200
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 8:08 am 
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I don't know why we all look so happy? I think it is because by this point we figured out it was going to come out without anymore issues...

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 12:00 pm 
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Spent this morning cleaning up all the gaskets off the block and then really gave the engine a good once over clean up. It is amazing how much grit and grime can accumulate on stuff. I am always impressed by you guys who keep your engines looking this clean year round...

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I need to touch up all the low spots where moisture seems to collect and cause a bit of surface rust.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2015 8:03 am 
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There was a thread here where someone did a good investigation of what to look for when purchasing a replacement marine starter but the Search is not helping me find it. Someone know which thread it was?


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2015 11:55 am 
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Location: West Palm Beach, FL
tymorrissette wrote:
There was a thread here where someone did a good investigation of what to look for when purchasing a replacement marine starter but the Search is not helping me find it. Someone know which thread it was?

Here is one of them:
http://www.smwebhead.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=14136&hilit=starter

Look for: "SAE J1171 Marine"

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"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 4:35 pm 
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Been washing and cleaning a ton of parts before they go back onto the engine or back in the boat. Also been trying to get a final list and best places to purchase all the new parts.

I have two starters I found. Both sellers indicate they are sealed and intended for marine use (but vary greatly in price):

$41
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Starter-fit ... 47&vxp=mtr

$127
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Starter-Motor-S ... 67&vxp=mtr

I hate to cheap out but then I would hate to over spend after I got the final fiberglass quote today :?


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 4:58 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
I've bought 2 marine starters over the years, one (which I still use) is an MES and the other was a Sierra (that was used till it got flooded with salt water when that little hose from the transom mount to the P/S cooler popped off 2 years ago). Both were good, and used by local marine mechanics. I usually buy stuff like this based on what mechanics I know are using. They were in the range of $150-175 or so.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 6:43 am 
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tymorrissette wrote:
...I got the final fiberglass quote today :?

Do Tell.

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"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 8:10 am 
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rpengr wrote:
tymorrissette wrote:
...I got the final fiberglass quote today :?

Do Tell.


Both quotes were in the $1,750-2,000 which is a little more than I had budgeted. I will get the written quotes today including the breakout in materials vs. labor. The guy who had the lower quote was reconmened to me by a good friend who had work done and he could start on it ASAP while the other guy was 2-3 weeks out till he could start.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 11:49 am 
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Another question. Can someone explain to me (the shop manual is not 100% clear) on how to install the transom seal?

PN: 3852550

Which looks like this:
http://www.shopboatpartsonline.com/imag ... 852550.jpg


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2015 3:12 pm 
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I am compiling a large spreadsheet to determine the best place to purchase all my parts (almost 20 PNs). Here are my list of vendors I am looking at. Am I missing anyone good?

Michigan Motorz
Ebay
Amazon
Discount Marine Source
West Marine
Wholesale Marine
Boats.net
iboats.com


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2015 3:52 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
Here's one that's harder to find, but very valuable in terms of knowledge...
find a good local boat repair shop, find out what they use and buy it from them, even if it costs more. Then when you need some advice you can talk to a real mechanic who works with this stuff every day. I have a very good local shop where the mechanics work on outboards and sterndrives. The guy who does the I/Os went to the OMC service school back in the day. I go there every year to get my spark plugs, points, condenser, dist cap, anodes, etc. And anytime I need a question answered, I can depend on them for good advice.
Finally I learned how to set up the OMC Cobra shift cables which is a job many marine mechanics don't know how to do and don't want to bother to learn. I have not had to bring the boat back to them for about 9 seasons worth but if I did, they have been seeing me every year...

PS those prices you got are not bad for the amount of work and the kind of work that job involves (requires precision, for the transom mount to fit right and that kind of glass work is about as nasty as it gets). Here I'm sure because of the cost of living it would cost more....Just make sure, that the shop makes sure that the edges of that outdrive cut out are really sealed up all the way and the same with the 6 holes for the mounting studs. Remember its the fresh water collecting in places like that that rots wood. Not the evil salt water I have to deal with (rots manifolds, destroys starters, etc)....

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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