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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2015 10:56 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 13, 2008 10:11 am
Posts: 663
Location: Corinth, TX
Hi all, it's been a while since I've been on. Haven't had to many issues with this boat. This year it started to develop a squealing sound that is coming from the fuel pump. I know because when I unplug the noise stops. It only does it at idle and not all the time. A new fuel pump for this boat (vp 5.7) is $1000 parts and I'm not going to change it so, that would be several hundred more in labor. I changed out the fuel/water separator after winterizing. So I won't know until spring if that made any difference. Anyone dealt with this issue?

Added video of the issue:
http://vid268.photobucket.com/albums/jj27/coopdawg01/Mobile%20Uploads/439C6C0F-DC2B-44A0-89F9-8254D081E946_zps4ajvcxah.mp4

The video was from before I knew it was the fuel pump, that's why I'm moving around so much trying to pinpoint the noise.

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Last edited by impulse on Thu Nov 12, 2015 3:30 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 5:46 am 
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Joined: Thu May 18, 2006 6:01 pm
Posts: 216
Location: Ohio
I had a similar problem with my 1998 VP 5.7 Gsi. It ended up being my low pressure pump and it gave out about 10 minutes after it started making a noise. My pumps are separate so I only had to replace the low pressure. I replaced it myself with a Sierra brand due to availability at the time and have had no problems for 5 years.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 6:57 am 
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Location: Minneapolis, MN
You might try un plugging the electrical wire at each pump and look for corrosion (green deposits). Bad connections could be contributing to the issue.

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Current boat: '02 FW 268 Vista
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 9:28 pm 
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Location: Corinth, TX
That's actually a great idea. I have to put the spark arestor cap back on (cleaned it while fogging), so when I go back under the cover I'll check that as well as putting some electric grease on each connection. I believe there are 2 electrical connections. The first one I pulled (when it was making the noise), caused it to stop. Boy I hope this works, but I won't be able to report back until spring.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2015 11:22 pm 
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I have same model and motor...had same issue. Mine started whining when I started on muffs before lake trip. Decided it would be a gradual issue and went for it. Poor decision as it held up until I got to middle of lake.

The issue was that the makers of the pump were not so good at making PUMPS. They painted the inside of the pump with paint that degrades with ethanol exposure. It clogs pump and burns it up. From the research, it is a widespread issue that arises about a month after warranty expiration.

They have a top secret service bulletin to remove the screen in the fuel regulator and replace with a special 2 dollar clip too. Odds are the pump is toast. The high pressure and low pressure pumps are in one unit and unable to be serviced.

I got my pump last year at a local marine supply for around 600. Wasn't too bad to change, but had to take out rear seat assembly to get to it all. Supposedly these new pumps aren't painted with same stuff, but we will see.

Fyi...I never put gas in boat or anything else without stabilizer and ethanol still crapped on the pump......search YouTube for videos even if you take it to shop...some were very informative.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 10:39 am 
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Location: Long Island NY
Really Volvo should have extended the warantee on this obviously defective product. Things are supposed to be getting better not worse. I have a 28 year old mechanical fuel pump that's never been replaced! And when you do need to change it they cost about $100!

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 11:13 am 
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The whining noise is a common symptom of a failing fuel pump as is the extremely hot fuel pump.
MPI engine, your fuel pump pressure at the fuel rail should be 50 - 60 PSI
low pressure fuel pump spec is 8 PSI +/- 4 PSI
If the low pressure pump is not within specs, you will need to replace the complete fuel cell assembly as the low pressure pump is not available as a replacement part. If the low pressure pump is within specs, and the high pressure pump is not, you can theoretically replace the high pressure pump as there is a replacement high pressure pump available.
Is it the high side or low side pump?
You can get it as a pair anywhere from $650-700. There easy to install yourself


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 3:32 pm 
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Location: Corinth, TX
It looks like the high pressure fuel pump is part of the assembly the fuel filter screws into, that's what I unplugged and the squealing stopped. I see them on Amazon for right at $700 and your right it looks like I should be able to change that myself. Should I also change the pressure regulator device? I guess this will be one of my winter projects......

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 6:46 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
Just make sure your tank is clean and that there are no restrictions on the suction side of your fuel system. These pumps are under more stress than automotive pumps because they must pull fuel to the tank not push it from the tank as in an automotive application. Also on the auto application they are cooled by fuel.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 8:34 pm 
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impulse wrote:
It looks like the high pressure fuel pump is part of the assembly the fuel filter screws into, that's what I unplugged and the squealing stopped. I see them on Amazon for right at $700 and your right it looks like I should be able to change that myself. Should I also change the pressure regulator device? I guess this will be one of my winter projects......


Remove the regulator. If there is a screen in it remove it and put a e-clip part#21491831 there.
Google Volvo Bulletin P-23-7


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 11:56 pm 
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To swap yourself you will want to pressure test the system. Auto Zone will provide test kit for free, but will ask for deposit. Make sure to ALWAYS FILL water-fuel separator filter with fuel when changing.


If u don't the void of fuel in system will fry the pump.

Pulling the rear seat is a two man job as it is bulky and heavy. I suggest to have impellor to change at same time cuz its easy with seat out as is bilge cleaning.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2016 9:51 pm 
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Location: Corinth, TX
Hello all! Just wanted to provide an update. I ended up replacing myself. I am glad I did as I'm sure I saved a bundle. I purchased off of Amazon http://amzn.com/B00KQ8D8MI. The following youtube video was a HUGE help: https://youtu.be/mTyQE3GYFgw Took me about 4 hours and it was not difficult. I did not have to remove my back seat. I am 6'8" 270 and had no issues with clearance on removal/install. I went to my purchasing dealer (parts guy) for the O ring set and he commented that Volvo was not aware of the paint clogging, fuel pump failure issue. Just what he told me, so it's quite possible I will be replacing this fuel pump in another 5 years. :roll:

I lake tested for about 30 mins after replacing and ran WOT a couple of times. She's running strong and sounds great! Boat is coming on plane quicker. Ready for summer! If you are the least bit handy and follow the youtube vid you can do this yourself no problem.

David

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2011 Ford F150 FX4 EB
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 1:20 pm 
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Location: Bush River, Maryland
"I went to my purchasing dealer (parts guy) for the O ring set and he commented that Volvo was not aware of the paint clogging, fuel pump failure issue."

I find this to be pretty unbelievable, there are many people who have had paint problems including myself. Volvo is ignoring the problem.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2016 1:17 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 27, 2008 7:13 pm
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Location: Allatoona Lake, Georgia
impulse wrote:
Just what he told me, so it's quite possible I will be replacing this fuel pump in another 5 years. :roll:


This is why my tech advised me to put a quart of 2 stroke motor oil in each gas tank when filling up (1 oz per 5 gallons of gas). This guy (not my tech) has been using it in his cars since 2008 with great success. It makes sense given the crappy government mandated gas we run our engines with.

http://www.ls1.com/forums/f48/been-testing-oil-91206/

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2016 12:01 pm 
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Your dealer parts rep is either a liar or ignorant and should be asked which he is claiming. It's all over the Internet on every boat forum. It's also tough to find the pumps in stock for this reason. I bought my pump direct from a marine supplier and when I described the symptoms the two reps immediately said it was due to fouled paint in the fuel pump, just as everyone else was saying on the forums. Another guy's waiting on other parts said he heard of this too and was waiting on his to crater.

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