Surface Interval wrote:
We installed the Xantrex modified sine wave inverter with the built in transfer switch. It works, but I would recommend a true sine wave for the following reasons.
1. The microwave takes half again to twice the time to heat something using the inverter.
2. The 110 volt fan "hums".
3. There is a faint buzz in the audio system when the TV is connected to the stereo.
These issues do not occur when on shorepower or when using the Honda.
It is very nice to be able to make coffee or heat up a beverage or snack without starting the Honda while others are still waking up.
The existing shorepower system is designed for 30 amps. The 1100 watt cooktop and 1300+ watt water heater can be run at the same time. Many of the inverters with a built in transfer switch will limit current to around 15 amps, including "pass-through" current from the 30 amp shorepower connection. Higher shorepower current flow may pop a circuit breaker on the inverter. This would be one benefit of using a manual selector switch between the shorepower connection and the 110 volt panel. I would recommend connecting to the existing 110 Volt system for simplicity and so that all the existing receptacles are available to be used. Many inverters have two 110 volt outlets on the inverter. This might be a convenient additional outlet, depending on where it is mounted. You can probably connect the inverter to the 110 volt system by disconnecting the wires at the shorepower connection, connecting that wire to the inverter or switch, and adding a length of wire from there up to the shorepower connection. Several inverter makers recommend no more than 5 foot cables from battery to inverter. you will need to go longer to get out of the engine room.
Keep in mind that the 268 has a refrigerator/battery charger switch on the 110 volt panel. This works great while on shorepower. HOWEVER, an inverter draws battery power to power all 110 volt appliances in use, including the battery charger. By turning off the refrigerator/battery charger switch, the battery charger is turned off and will not further drain the battery. The OEM refrigerator is a 12v/110v unit. When 110 volt power is not available it will run on 12 volts. It needs to be switched back on to charge the batteries when shorepower or the Honda is used.
We have used a 700 watt 5 cup Mr. Coffee. The Kuerigs are great, but they draw about 1500 watts. Make sure your system is up to it.
Water Heater 1300+ watts
Electric cooktop 1100 watts
Microwave 800 watts
Kuerig 1500 watts
Mr. Coffee 700 watts
2 slice toaster 900-1500 watts
Fans maybe 100-200 watts
TVs and laptops approx 100 watts each.
Hope this helps. Merry Christmas.
Merry Christmas! Great info, as always Gary!
I was worried about the frig part and how I would handle it. My main thought was to just switch it off inverter when not in use. This is 100% the way to go. I am seeing inverters from 100-150 with the modulated sine wave and closer to 350-400 and up for the pure sine wave.... struggling with the extra cost.... if I go modulated and selector switch I can do it all for around the cost of the pure sine wave inverter.... I don't know, it's a spring project at the soonest....
This seems like one that would work for $150
http://www.starmarinedepot.com/xantrex- ... aQod1NYJZQwhat is your thoughts on that one?