Flyer51 wrote:
I've been following this thread and have in fact winterized my Volvo 8.1 by removing the hoses and the block drains and filling everything back up with -100. I always get nervous I've missed something and in fact will go back out over the weekend on another project and double check all the hoses. On my engine I have the blue engine flush connector. I've always wondered why I couldn't run my engine up to temperature using that connection then shut everything down, open the block drains then use that connection to introduce -100 antifreeze and start the engine back up. Like everything on this I find conflicting information. Just wondering if something like that is an option. When I do remove the hoses I often blow some air through them to make sure all the water is purged before introducing the anitfreeze back into the system. I did use right around 6 gallons of the antifreeze in my engine.
The first year I had the boat I had my dealer winterize the boat and they ran the engine on the muffs over a kiddie pool that was filled with the -100 antifreeze. I understand many dealers do it this way to save time but I did not find it to be the best way to perform the task. It did seem easier though than me reaching into the bottom of the bilge and wrestling the hoses off my raw water pump. Many bruises and some blood later the job was done but my wife thought I had been in a fight when I got home.
OK if you don't want to look like you got into a fist fight then try this....
next time if you have access to electric, bring a hair dryer and an extension cord, plus a set of picks. The hair dryer can be used to carefully warm up those hoses, and the picks will help you get the hoses off without a wrestling match. I like to smear a coating of OMC/Evinrude triple guard grease on the neck of the thermostat housing hose fittings & circulating pump neck because this cuts down on the corrosion that makes the hoses get stuck.