www.iFourWinns.com

Well, been meaning to upgrade the stereo for some time. Did some reading about bilge pumps, and thought that area needed attention too. Both of the above would benefit from a second battery, so worked that into the plans. Been reading and aquiring equipment since last July. Finally found some time (read worked up enough courage) to actually install some of the equipment I've acquired over the long weekend. I'm not done yet, but here's what I've done so far.

_________________
2007 Horizon 200
4.3L GXi/ SX 225 HP

Ok, I got a little farther than that. I also ran wiring, and installed the following:



(I didn't have the cover snapped on right - it's level, really!)





I ordered my '07 Horizon 200 with the standard stereo package which drives four clarion 2 way speakers with up to 60W each from the Clarion MD-4 head unit. I elected to install the same amp that FW used on the premium stereo package, Clarion APX-480, and install two additional speakers and a sub-woofer. The amp will throw up to 80 per channel continuous at the speakers, and 160W at the Subwoofer (still as yet to be installed). I originally bought Polk db-650s cheap off ebay, but then decided I wanted the look of the additional speakers to blend more with the stock speakers, so I went with Clarion CMCX 7.1 speakers instead. I managed to do all of this with the Sunsport seating bench in place, then on Monday, pulled the bench, and started, but did not finish, the wiring for the second battery.

More to come.

_________________
2007 Horizon 200
4.3L GXi/ SX 225 HP

Thanks Jim. I myself am about to tackle the speaker/amp upgrade myself and yours as well as others posts always give me a little insight Noticed you are using a rotozip type from Ryobi. Hows it cut - was it a fight or did it work pretty smooth?

_________________
2008 Four Winns 210 5.7 GI/SX
2007 GMC Sierra 2500 Crew
1966 Fed-Up Wife

Works fine, although it helps to have an extra battery on hand. Also where I cut, I could not go full circle with the circle cutter, so I had to free hand a bit at the top and bottom.

_________________
2007 Horizon 200
4.3L GXi/ SX 225 HP

Spent more time than I should of this past weekend, and took some heat from the Admiral.

I swapped my Aluminum zincs for Magnesium zincs.

I swapped out the ribbed style bilge hose for some nice thick smooth wall stuff.



Also doubled up the hose clamps on both ends.



Added a second 1 1/4" SS thru wall on the port side for the second bilge pump. Like the first one, I sealed it with 4200.



The second bilge pump is a Rule 1500 Automatic (built in float switch). The raised area of the bilge meant for screwing down bilge pumps and float switches was getting crowded, so I rigged up a bracket at a level about 1" higher than the primary bilge pump. This way the pump will only kick on when the primary pump can't keep up, and has the added benefit of keeping the pump above any cr@p in the bottom of the bilge that could foul it.



(Couldn't find a stainless bracket, so I gave a regular sheet metal angle iron bracket several coats of enamel, and used SS mounting hardware. Again, I used 4200 on the screws mounting the angle iron to the fiberglass.)

Here's the pump installed.



Last year when plotting all of these upgrades I came across an Aqualarm Bilge pump monitor. The monitor had a considerable list of features, including audible alarm, digital read out showing running time, on board switch for test (manual), off, and auto, as well as on board fuse.



I snagged one for less than $30 shipped, and was thrilled as they retail for $149 (less 15% if you buy direct from the aqualarm.net website). When I got it, I was less than impressed. Check the flip side.



Not ignition protected to say the least. I boxed it in some starboard, and temporarily installed it. Time will tell if it rates an install more permanent than velcro.

My plan is to wire the back up bilge to the group 24 combo cranking/deep cycle battery, the primary bilge will be on the larger group 27 combo cranking/deep cycle house battery.

While on the subject of dual batteries, I installed a second battery tray.



Added a second ground wire run direct to the engine block. Pre-wired the Blue Sea Systems "Add a Battery" ACR and Switch.



And cut more holes in the boat!



BTW - you now see two circuit breakers in the above pic, I added the second one to protect the power wire run to the amp.

The "Add a Battery" ACR and switch are both ignition protected. This allowed me to face the ACR inward to the engine compartment, to keep a cleaner look. This did cost me a few trips to the hardware store, and some fiberglass 'rash' on my forearms, but otherwise was worth it. Here's the holes all filled.



And a pic with the Sunsport seat and panels re-installed and buttoned up.



Also gave the boat a bath, cleaned the seats and interior surfaces. I'll give it a wax and drop it in the water next weekend. The final piece of the upgrade installation of the 10" Polk Audio Momo subwoofer requires that I build a custom enclosure - more to come, but don't hold your breath!

_________________
2007 Horizon 200
4.3L GXi/ SX 225 HP

_________________


Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

Thanks! It took a lot longer than I expected, and there's still quite a bit more to do.

_________________
2007 Horizon 200
4.3L GXi/ SX 225 HP

Pics of projects like this make my knees hurt.

_________________


Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

Tested out the bilge pumps this past weekend. Decided the easiest way was to pull the drain plug, and drop it in the water. Well, ok, lower it into the water as it's on a lift.

Check out this jet of water coming off the main bilge pump.


I don't know about 1500 GPH, but that was a serious flow of water. I might have to try this again and see how long it takes to fill a gallon bucket from that stream. Any guesses?

The main pump easily handled the water coming in through the drain plug hole. It'd run for about 35 seconds, shut off, then 15 seconds later kick on again. The back up bilge pump cycled once or twice during the test, but never got wet. Think I have some excess capacity. I did find that the Aqualarm Bilge pump monitor sounds the alarm every time the back up bilge pump cycles. Not good. I talked to Aqualarm and for $12 they shipped out a circuit board I can install that will change it so that the alarm only sounds after 2 minutes of run time on the back up bilge. Much better. Judging by my testing if the back up bilge runs for two minutes, then I'll want to know for sure.

On the stereo upgrade side, I installed a contura switch on the remote power lead running from the head unit to the amp. I hid it just below the helm. When off, I run the head unit and stock speakers alone, then with a flick of a switch the amp, two 7" speakers, (and soon the sub) kick on. The Clarion APX480M has a soft start feature, so I can kick it on while playing tunes and it slowly ramps up volume - no thumps. I did this as a before and after comparison for the admiral, changed her mind about "the stereo sounding the same" real quick. You know, if I didn't have that switch, I'd never have been able to convince her.

I did quite a bit of work on the sub too. There's more pics over in Blessed's Amp install thread, http://www.smwebhead.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2069 ,so I'll just post the near finished sub enclosure here.



It's a 10" Polk Audio Momo subwoofer, the enclosure is constructed out of 3/4" plywood to the .66 cubic foot dimensions that Polk advises for a sealed enclosure. I elected to mount the sub under the Sunsport seating rear bench. I found that the only way I could devise to accomodate those dimensions and have enough 'face' area for the sub was to follow the angle of the starboard support FW used in the bench. It angles at about 75 degrees inward towards the cockpit, so by angling the face I picked up an extra 1/2" allowing for the 11 inches needed - a tight fit as you can see.

I gave the enclosure three coats inside and out with truck bed liner (I found Hercules liner for $21 a quart at Fleet Farm). I still need to wire the sub to the terminal cup, affix the sub to the enclosure, cut some 'vent holes' in the starboard bench support, bracket the sub to the deck and connect the speaker wires. Can't wait. Too bad I don't have a before/ after switch for this one.

_________________
2007 Horizon 200
4.3L GXi/ SX 225 HP

Reminds me of that old saying about a race horse - nice job! Although I will say, you've got a lot more nerve than me to be able to lower it into the water without a plug . That would be the moment when my lift failed .

_________________


Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

Nice work Jim. That is quite the bilge pump setup! Just curious, but what was the original plan of the project?

You've got to be the first one I've seen purposely dump their boat in the water witout the plug

_________________
-Rob.


Current boat: 2011 Yamaha AR210
Previous boat: 1998 Horizon RX 4.3GL SX

This project got bumped up on the list after I had read Pascoe's ramblings on bilge pumps.

http://www.yachtsurvey.com/bilge_pumps.htm

The plan was to meet the minimum specifications recommended by Pascoe for a 20' boat. I may not have gone that far, but I sure went way beyond the Rule 500 pump that FW provided as OEM. I now use the Rule 500 (which Pascoe hates so much) to pump out the admiral's pedal boat after a hard rain.

_________________
2007 Horizon 200
4.3L GXi/ SX 225 HP

That shows confidence in your work! I tested my auto bilge switch (and do this every season before launching) by just putting the plug in with it on the trailer and putting some water in the bilge with a hose, until the pump kicked on. This boat came with an 1100 gph Rule, I added a Sure Bail auto bilge switch, I may add a second pump with a separate thru hull, it's a good safety plan.

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II