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PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2009 1:40 pm 
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Sting Ray

Joined: Mon Feb 23, 2009 5:00 pm
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I am going to install a dual battery setup with an isolator like the blue sea type. and I like the idea of having the second house battery be purchased with the intent of being house only and not starting. SHhuld I get a marine battery, or can I get a pure deep cycle type??

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PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2009 2:44 pm 
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If it will be solely house, and NEVER cranking, I'd think the deep cycle would give you better performance and would last longer.

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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2009 2:26 pm 
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Sting Ray

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I got myself a blue seas isolator and switch and I am going to install the dual batteries. I want to install the battery on the opposite side of the original on the Starbord side. Is there any special place, or just mimic where the other one is?

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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2009 3:38 pm 
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Narwhal
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There are a number of considerations that may impact battery positioning. As I recall, Coast Guard & Boat Manufacturer guidelines preclude having gas lines run over the battery. As the gas fill is on that side of the boat, you'll want to position the battery so those lines are not directly over head. You'll also need to find a good route for the hot battery cable run back to the switch. I understand that if this run exceeds 6 feet, you'll want an ignition protected inline fuse, I'd figure out approximate lengths and give Blea Sea Systems customer support a call for a recomendation on size and type (great folks to work with over there - extremely helpful!). There again, you want to avoid having that run cross gas lines. I ran two short cables from the isolator directly to the switch rather than to each battery, something like this might work out well for your install too. I'd suggest running a seperate ground to the engine block somewhere near where you mount the second battery, a good practice in general, and could save you a few dollars on cable. You'll also want to give some consideration to battery tray & post covers versus enclosed battery box. Sounds like a fun project!

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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2009 4:00 pm 
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230 Mike
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Location: Kansas City, Table Rock Lake
As a result of the original 230 starboard list issue, the factory recently began installing them in essentially the same place on the port side. You'll have better balance in your boat after making this change.

In other words, it will bring balance to the force. :)

Here's how I did mine - looking into the port locker, sideways. One of them is inside the locker compartment itself so is in a battery box so things dropped in there wouldn't damage the battery.

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Last edited by 230 Mike on Mon Sep 12, 2016 11:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2009 8:12 am 
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Sting Ray

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Mike, did you add 2 additional batteries on the port side or did you relocated them both to port?

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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2009 9:50 am 
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230 Mike
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Relocated :)

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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2009 9:53 am 
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Sting Ray

Joined: Mon Feb 23, 2009 5:00 pm
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Why, to balance out the water tank on the Starbord side??

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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2009 1:00 pm 
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230 Mike
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Many, if not most, of the '04 - '06 230/240's with dual batteries had a starboard list. It resulted from the weight of the fresh water, the captain, and the dual batteries all being on that side (especially when I'm the captain :evil: ). The reason the dual batteries exacerbate the issue is that they're located in the part of the boat that has the steepest deadrise. Moving them to the other side not only has a net effect of moving ~200lbs. (~50lbs. x 2 batteries), it's moving that 200lbs. in the area where weight has the most significant effect of any location in the boat.

Lots of these boats (including mine) had the batteries relocated by their dealers at FW's expense.

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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2009 1:37 pm 
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Sting Ray

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Have you ever killed a battery by playing the radio, etc. out on the water. I have a factory radio and I would think it would take many hours to kill it. I have been looking at how much work it would be to move the factory battery and also install a second with the electronic monitoring, and I starting thinking what is the chance of killing the battery, maybe all I need is an easy to install on-off switch and a $40 portable booster from Walmart??

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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2009 2:10 pm 
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230 Mike
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I've never killed one, and we spend most of our time on the hook with the stereo on. But, I still wouldn't buy a boat without dual batteries. And I always take along a jumper pack. Belt and suspenders.

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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2009 3:02 pm 
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Sting Ray

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That's what I figured, I guess I may only go with the belt!!

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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 9:40 am 
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Narwhal
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Stock stereo with no amp? Yeah, lots of hours available. I've never drained a battery that way, but on a previous boat had the bilge pump drain the battery many times - slight leak on the snap on style cover, and the boat was moored in the water. A jump pack would work to get a boat with a dead battery started providing the jump pack itself is charged - another thing to remember and care for.

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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 11:11 am 
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Location: Millhaven, ON
I have three batteries (starting bat and 1 deep cycle house on the starboard side and a single deep cycle on the port side - the deep cycles are connected together in paralel) in my H260 and I also carry a jump pack and a small set of jumper cables! I never want to be stranded on the water without the means to start the boat. I like the extra capacity because I have the cockpit refrigerator on the house system.

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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 11:20 am 
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230 Mike
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I've got the "upgrade" factory stereo (which isn't very :) ) but does have an amp, and as far as I can tell I've never come close to running down a battery.

More than anything else, I carry the jumper pack because it might help someone else and keep me from having to tow someone in.

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