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PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 7:22 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 22, 2008 8:05 pm
Posts: 179
Location: Lake Norman Denver NC
The drain at the bottom of my in-floor ski locker on my 2006 240 Horizon is not draining. I called the service dept of my Four Winns dealer. The dealer says the 240 has a problem with the gas tank sliding forward and blocking the drain. I am scheduled to bring it in on Monday. They say it is about 3 hours of labor to take up the floor board to repair, $300 estimate to fix.
Has anyone had this problem?


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 7:33 pm 
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Nauti Luv

Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2009 9:55 am
Posts: 2186
Location: Little Elm - Lake Lewisville TX
Search this board....this isnt anything new for that model of boat. Good luck though!

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 7:43 pm 
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Clownfish

Joined: Wed Jul 08, 2009 2:32 pm
Posts: 43
I am having the same problem with my sl262. I am going to see about doing it myself tomorrow.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 1:43 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 29, 2006 10:26 pm
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Location: Long Island NY
I recall someone posting some pix of the brackets that they used to secure the plastic tank...it seems that they pulled away from the area of the stringer that they are screwed into...and allowed the tank to shift...so you might want to get the gas level in the tank as low as possible first if you want to try shifting the tank yourself and then re-securing it...the brackets in the pix did not look all that secure to me...
The older FWs like mine had an aluminum tank instead of the plastic ones and those come with four mounting tabs that are welded to the tank and then screwed to the stringers which is very strong...

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
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2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 11:33 am 
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Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2007 2:42 pm
Posts: 1152
Location: Kansas City, MO
Several people on here have mentioned this problem. There are a few threads on it as well. Requires re-bracketing/re-bracing of the tank.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 8:58 am 
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Joined: Wed May 14, 2008 2:52 pm
Posts: 182
Location: Pa.
LouC wrote:
I recall someone posting some pix of the brackets that they used to secure the plastic tank...it seems that they pulled away from the area of the stringer that they are screwed into...and allowed the tank to shift...so you might want to get the gas level in the tank as low as possible first if you want to try shifting the tank yourself and then re-securing it...the brackets in the pix did not look all that secure to me...
The older FWs like mine had an aluminum tank instead of the plastic ones and those come with four mounting tabs that are welded to the tank and then screwed to the stringers which is very strong...



You stated that the plastic tanks brackets pulled away form the stringer, But your aluminum brackets are welded to tank & secured to stringers. What makes the plastic tank brackets pull out of the stringers vs welded to tank on the aluminum tanks?? Is that because the plastic tanks are heavier? the stringers should be the same whether they have plastic or aluminum tanks?? Strange that when the went to plastic they started having this problem.I haven't seen the pics, just curiuos about this problem. How about the H190?

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 9:53 am 
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Location: Long Island NY
From what I recall the plastic tanks have depressions molded into them and the metal brackets fit into these depressions and are then screwed into the stringer or bulkhead. The issue appears to be that the screws do not always hold well in a composite (non wood) stringer. The older FWs had wood stringers and aluminum tanks with welded on tabs and the tabs are screwed into the wood stringers...and even though wood can rot one advantage is that it holds fasteners better than a foam cored stringer...some composites do hold fasteners well but I'm not familiar with what FW is using now...

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 11:03 am 
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Joined: Thu May 18, 2006 12:31 pm
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Location: Chester, UK
I must admt I am not a great fan of putting screws into composites, especially for heavily stressed or critical items. It's much better to incorporate a captive threaded insert of some type and use a machine screw. It's just cheaper to put screws directly into the composite, that's why they do it that way.

Graham


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 1:26 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
I have used threaded inserts for wood applications when I installed the rear seats in my old Horizon...I got these from West Marine....they are a barrel shaped insert with wood screw threads on the outside and machine screw threads on the inside...once it's installed in plywood the seats can be easily removed without stripping out the plywood as would happen just using wood screws...I bet there are some designed to be used in composites...the issue is cost...the ones I used were expensive but well worth it...unfortuantely even good builders cut corners...

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 2:58 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 14, 2008 2:52 pm
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Location: Pa.
I would use "delrons" they use then in helicopter completions. Drill out the honeycomb or composite area, insert delron fill W/metalset. Use an hardware the delron ain't pulling out before it rips away the host metarial. It's FAA approved for interior completions.Works in those aspects works for me & all the stuff is available to me for :twisted: ??????!! :lol:

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2008 H190 Blue W/Red accents 4.3L Merc
2015 Tacoma Access Cab Super White 4x4 TRD Sport
2014 HD FXDC Black Stage 1 Mods V&H Bolt Ons,Naked VO2 AC & FP3.
2011 Polaris 500HO RED]
Life Long Boston Bruin Fan 2011 Stanley Cup Champs!! :-)
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