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PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 9:14 am 
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Dolphin

Joined: Sun Aug 02, 2009 8:12 pm
Posts: 83
Location: North Texas
Will that hose drain fit down the bilge drain hole when it comes time to drain the oil? I've looked at the picture in the link provided on page one of this thread (Overtons) and I get the one end of it that has the brass cap on it, but the other end that has the 90 degree open elbow, What's that for and how does that connect to the motor? Maybe a stupid question but if I can change oil without a pump that's what I'd probably opt to do. Can it be done with just the hose?

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 9:42 am 
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Joined: Wed Feb 11, 2009 2:30 pm
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Location: SW Ohio
My previous boat had a mercruiser and had a drain hose attached already like the one pictured. The 90 degree end attaches to the oil pan,(I don't know where specifically) and the other fitting is designed to fit through the drain hole on the transom. It worked for me but it was pitifully slow. I would let it run(or should I say dribble) and work on other winterizing tasks. I am going for a pump this year and hope it makes the task easier and quicker.

But yes with this attached draining the oil can be done without a pump.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 12:37 pm 
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Location: Indiana
I had the Mercruiser drain hose on my Sea Ray, it was SLOW! The pump is a lot faster, but doesn't get ALL the oil out.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 1:40 am 
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sure you can do it that way. The hose is a small diameter though, so if the oil is cold it drain VERY slowly.

If it's hot it will drain a little quicker but it will still be slow. Since the drain is in the pan drain, you will get it all.

It only takes the Moeller vacuum pump about 2 min to drain the oil Cold or hot if you connect it to the hose.


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I had the Mercruiser drain hose on my Sea Ray, it was SLOW! The pump is a lot faster, but doesn't get ALL the oil out.
If you connect the pump to the hose it will get out as much oil as you can drain using gravity.

If you suck it out thru the dipstick tube it doesn't get it all but it gets enough...

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1987 Four Winns Liberator 211, formerly OMC 460 King Kobra powered, replaced in 2006 by a 1997 Mercruiser 454/Bravo III


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 8:44 am 
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Dolphin

Joined: Sun Aug 02, 2009 8:12 pm
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Location: North Texas
Starting this Weds. West Marine has the Moeller on sale for $59 so I'm going to run over there and get it then. Still undecided on the drain hose though. I'll probably try the pump without it first time and see how much oil I can get out.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 11:40 am 
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My biggest complaint against going thru the dipstick tube is what to do with the plastic hose that you stuff in the dipstick tube after you finish sucking out the oil. The thing drips for several minutes after you pull it out. (including flipping oil all over the engine if you're not careful removing it)

With some engines, the biggest problem with installing the drain hose in the pan is having to crawl in the back to connect it. Also, some marine pan drains are very hard to get to AND some have an adapter for the marine dipstick connection that USES the original pan drain. So with them, you technically DO NOT have a pan drain. (and thus, no where to connect a drain hose.........My OMC 460 was that way.)

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1987 Four Winns Liberator 211, formerly OMC 460 King Kobra powered, replaced in 2006 by a 1997 Mercruiser 454/Bravo III


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 1:21 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 18, 2006 12:31 pm
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Location: Chester, UK
Re the tube dripping after it's taken out of the dipstick tube: I've modified mine with a quick release coupling I had lying about. The tube that goes into the dipstick has the male end, the tube that goes into the vacuum chamber has the female end, which shuts that line off when it's disconnected. After extracting the oil, I disconnect it and leave the tube in the dipstick and do something else like remove the oil filter/ refit the new. By then, the tube had drained completely and as I extract it from the dipstick tube, it's very easy to wipe the outside with a paper rag. No mess.

The (rigid + flexible pipe) that I use to suck water out of the bilge etc has a similar male quick release coupling. I have also fitted a ball valve right at the inlet into the vacuum chamber; that way I can build up the vacuum, position the water extraction tube where I want it and then switch it on.

Graham


Last edited by Graham R on Mon Sep 07, 2009 4:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 1:58 pm 
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I will add that engines that have the dipstick tube connected to the pan-drain also have a threaded hose connection at the top of the dipstick tube.

On these, you don't have to push the rigid plastic tube down into the pan to suck out the oil.

And for the most part, you'll get all the oil that would otherwise drain out by gravity.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 3:44 pm 
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Dolphin

Joined: Sun Aug 02, 2009 8:12 pm
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Location: North Texas
Ht32bsx115, I believe mine has the threaded end at the top of dipstick tube like you mentioned. Is the Moeller able to thread on to the dipstick tube? If so that'd be real easy.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 4:51 pm 
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Location: Chester, UK
Your only problem with using that threaded bit is that the threaded bit at the top of the dipstick tube is full of oil when you've finished (yes, I made an adaptor to use that but I never use it!).

Graham


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