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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 12:04 pm 
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Dolphin

Joined: Sun Aug 02, 2009 8:12 pm
Posts: 83
Location: North Texas
I just did a full service of motor and drive then winterized, but got a question. I may have missed a hose on the power steering pump. Is there a hose there that needs to be pulled to drain water? I pulled the 5 at thermo. and 2 on water pump, just want to make sure there isn't one more on ps pump. Thanks

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 1:45 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
I'm not familiar with your engine but power steering systems often have a cooler that's in line with a raw water intake hose...and the cooler itself usually has a drain plug on it...my old OMC Cobra has one on the back of the engine (some Volvos built in the joint venture era 94-98 also do..same one...) that has to be drained...I disconnect the hose that comes from the cooler up to the thermo housing and point it dowin the bilge...then remove the drain plug to make sure it drained (did every time) then I just fill that raw water intake hose with marine antifreeze to push out any water and re-connect the hose...

Make sure it's drained right because if there is water in it and it freezes they can be expensive to replace...

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 2:23 pm 
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Dolphin

Joined: Sun Aug 02, 2009 8:12 pm
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Location: North Texas
Thanks Lou. I just read in my manual that the power steering pump in my boat is oil cooled and that the oil cooler is a heat exchanger that uses engine cooling water to keep the hydrolic fluid cool. I think that's what you just said. First winterization here and thought I had it done completely, guess not. Anyone have a 5.0gxi that can chime in before I get back in there?

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 3:16 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 18, 2006 12:31 pm
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Location: Chester, UK
There is an oil cooler at the rear of the engine, in line with the raw water inlet hose. If you've sucked up antifreeze via the outdrive, it will be full of antifreeze; I'm not certain if it's angles slightly upwards, so it drains out through the outdrive or through the inlet hose to the water pump ( assuming the impellor has been removed).

Graham


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 4:11 pm 
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Dolphin

Joined: Sun Aug 02, 2009 8:12 pm
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Location: North Texas
I will change the impeller in the spring (I've got the new one, just read it's best to do in spring). I'm storing the block dry so no antifreeze. Graham, does the cooler for the ps pump automatically drain out the drive thus nothing needs to be done with it?

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 5:18 pm 
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Location: Chester, UK
I don't know for sure ; I was working in the engine compartment of my boat today, I thnk the cooler tilts towards the raw water pump. It's pitch dark here now, I can check tomorow.

Graham


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 7:27 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
The one on my engine will drain if I disconnect the raw water intake hose and point it down in the bilge...there is a drain on it but on my engine it's hard to get at it...you can reach it but it's wedged back there with the steering ram and associated parts...I have removed the plug each year after draining that hose and there was never any water in it...then I fill the hose with -100 marine antifreeze till the AF comes out drive water intakes to be on the safe side...

Not knowing how your pump is mounted I can't say for sure if it would also drain if you drain the raw water intake hose without removing the drain plug....

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 16, 2009 9:58 am 
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Location: Chester, UK
I just checked on mine (2004 5.7 GXi). The cooler is angled downwards towards the raw water pump inlet. So, unless the pump cover or the hose at the pump is removed, the hose and cooler will remain full of water (or antifreeze, of course!). There is no drain on mine. There is an unused stub virtually at the highmost part of the cooler pointing upwards, blanked off with a rubber cap.

Graham


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 16, 2009 10:22 am 
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Dolphin

Joined: Sun Aug 02, 2009 8:12 pm
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Location: North Texas
Thanks Graham. I'll get out there and pull the hose on it. Any tips on cleaning the spark/flame arrestor? I can't find anything on it in any of the manuals. Take it off and blow it out with air?

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 16, 2009 10:46 am 
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Location: Chester, UK
I immerse mine in solvent (to remove any oil mist) and then blow it dry with compressed air. I'm lucky that I have access to a very effective non flammable solvent; most readily available solvents tend to be flammable, so some care would be needed if you have to use one of those ( I don't know what is readily available in N America).

Graham


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 16, 2009 10:55 am 
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Dolphin

Joined: Sun Aug 02, 2009 8:12 pm
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Location: North Texas
Good point about using something non-flamable. I'll look around and try to find something to clean it. I've got to say it's pretty cool talking to someone in the UK about boat maintenance. If you ever make it to Dallas, Texas I'll fire up the smoker and introduce you to some great babyback ribs. :wink:

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"THE GREEN HORNET"


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 16, 2009 12:56 pm 
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Location: Chester, UK
Thanks !

Graham


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 16, 2009 5:39 pm 
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Given what you have there...I'd drain that hose...then stick a funnel in it...and fill it with -100 marine antifreeze till some runs out the water intakes on the drive...then you know for sure the water's out...the AF being more dense than water will push the water out...

With the block...I drain mine...then back fill with the big hose on the front of the engine (I disconnect it at the top end...) and with the engine drains out..I fill it with some AF till I see the last of the water pushed out by the AF.. next replace the drain plug...put a little marine grease on em......then I fill it the rest of the way with AF (takes about 2 gallons) till I see AF appear at the thermo neck...then replace the upper end of the hose...
I do the same thing with the manifolds...fill till the last of the water comes out..then replace the drain plug....fill till the AF spills out the exhaust (why you must use no tox AF).

My way takes a little longer and costs more because the -100 is the most expensive AF you can use..but the good thing is it really gets ALL the water out..and replaces the air...with AF...which will reduce corrosion...even in an engine used only in freshwater...there's a lot more oxygen in air..than AF...and it's the oxygen..that makes rust (iron oxide)...

As far as for the flame arrestor...I use brake cleaner...spray it in an area with good ventilation...and let it air dry...(to be on the safe side I always put a plastic bag over the opening of carb...don't want anything to fall down there....)

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 16, 2009 6:16 pm 
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Location: Chester, UK
Hey Lou,

You wouldn't like to invite me to a BBQ at you house as well, would you?

You'd both be welcome if you're in the UK, plenty of places around here with decent British beer; probably a little warmer than you're used to ( the beer, not the air temperature !); I might even introduce you to the brewer (not me !)

Graham


Last edited by Graham R on Tue Nov 17, 2009 3:04 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 16, 2009 6:26 pm 
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Location: Chester, UK
Lou,

- 100F is -73 deg C if I calculate it correctly; what is the basis for that antifreeze?. I'd be surprised if it got that cold at the South pole!

Graham


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