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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 9:10 am 
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Goldfish

Joined: Mon Apr 14, 2008 2:09 pm
Posts: 34
Location: Frisco, TX (N. Dallas)
Well the wife and kids were gone for a few weeks so I organized a weekend with the guys - camping and fishing on Lake Texoma. Got to the Lake early enough Friday evening to go ahead and launch the boat and enjoy the lake for about two hours. Upon return when loading the boat back on the trailer the Trim stoped working with it slightly above neutral position...uh oh!

Well we loaded it on the trailer and eased it up the ramp and we were able to get it back to our campsite, but it was obvious I would be unable to get it back home in that position unless I did not want to have my outdrive arrive with me.

Turns out that the 10 amp fuse blew and a new one would blow immediately also. So in hopes of just getting it up I put in a 15 amp fuse and with the ignition off I could ease it up, so we finished the weekend on the water, but I did not use the trim by just keeping it in the down position and slipping it on Saturday night.

After we finished Sunday I loaded it back on the trailer by slowing moving the trim to the up position with a 15 amp fuse. But even the 15 amp would blow if the ingnition was in the on position.

Took it into the dealer on Tuesday and I am waiting for their diagnosis...luckily it is still under warranty...by 3 days!!!

I know it is a short somewhere, but any thoughts from you all?

Todd

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 2:41 pm 
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230 Mike
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Joined: Mon May 15, 2006 7:59 pm
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Location: Kansas City, Table Rock Lake
This isn't your question, but shouldn't the warranty end next year (assuming no extended warranty)?

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 2:46 pm 
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Guppy

Joined: Mon May 19, 2008 4:54 pm
Posts: 7
Location: Wylie, TX
I wonder what your battery voltage was? Did you try using the trim with the motor running? Did you try physically lifting the outdrive while running the trim up?

Since it didn't blow immediately with the bigger fuse, I don't think you have a direct short. My guess would be something simple like a loose wire (loose connections draw more current) although I guess you have to suspect the pump motor as well. Let us know what the dealer finds!

Andy

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 3:04 pm 
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230 Mike
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Joined: Mon May 15, 2006 7:59 pm
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Location: Kansas City, Table Rock Lake
Could also be a bad pump relay. They do go bad.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 3:07 pm 
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Goldfish

Joined: Mon Apr 14, 2008 2:09 pm
Posts: 34
Location: Frisco, TX (N. Dallas)
Mike you are correct, I was overly anxious and conerned and forgot we get 2 years on the base warranty. I did buy an extended warranty.

Andy, I was not looking at the battery voltage at the time and am not sure. I only had a few fuses so I was not doing too much research other than how to get it up so I could trailer it home. The 10 amp blew immediately; the 15 amp would only blow when the motor and/or ignition was on.

I did not try to move the the outdrive but since it stayed in the up position once I got it up I am sure the hydraulics are fully charged.

The odd part is that it just quite in process of trimming it up during loading. I hope it is something simple and obvious so it can be fixed for good and it does not become a lingering problem.

My dealer said they should be getting to it today/tomorrow. I will let you know what they say.

Todd

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Todd, Tina, Alex (11) and Ava Grace (7)
'07 244 Funship, Black, Forward Bimini, Custom Cover, 5.7 Gi DP
'03 27TBS Coachman Shasta
'08 F250 PSD
'04 Excusion EB PSD, RAS, Bilsteins and Wood Trim
'96 Camry - What I drive!


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 27, 2009 9:06 pm 
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Clownfish

Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 6:34 pm
Posts: 44
Hey Frisco Camper...you still there?? What did the dealer find out???? I have same issue. Boat is solid and I love it, but the darn thing will go down just fine, but will only come up about 5 inches and stop!!!!!!! :shock:

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 5:12 pm 
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Dolphin

Joined: Sun Aug 02, 2009 8:12 pm
Posts: 83
Location: North Texas
I bet the short is in the control arm. I bought my boat used with the trim blowing fuses and knew what the problem was before I bought it (saved me a little hunk of money 8). Take the control arm off and you'll see how the wires can get frayed and short out over time. I took pics of mine but don't see how to post them.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 5:27 pm 
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Clownfish

Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 6:34 pm
Posts: 44
Thanks. Figured out that I have to press "trailer" button to fully raise outdrive on this FW. I will probably take contro; arm apart though, because I have to move back and forth in neutral to get it just right so that it will allow engine to start. Probably frayed or corroded neutral-safety switch. :roll:

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 5:52 pm 
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Villiage Idiot

Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2007 8:28 pm
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Location: Kansas City
audible wrote:
I will probably take contro; arm apart though, because I have to move back and forth in neutral to get it just right so that it will allow engine to start. Probably frayed or corroded neutral-safety switch. :roll:


Actually, My 10 yr old Maxum did the same for a while. Eventually I just greased, and adjusted the throttle cable a little (on the carb side) and viola! Worked great from then on.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2009 9:01 pm 
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Whatever
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Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 8:39 am
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Location: Salt Lake, Utah
Frisco Camper wrote:
I did not try to move the the outdrive but since it stayed in the up position once I got it up I am sure the hydraulics are fully charged.



How do you know this, did you use a amp meter? How long does it take for the hydraulics to discharge if listening to stereo full blast? :lol:

Sorry, could not help it.

That only means that the hydraulic pump holds pressure, no leak down, which is good news, most likely dont need a new motor/pump. Hopefully should be a cheap fix.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 1:32 pm 
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Narwhal
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Joined: Mon Feb 26, 2007 10:29 am
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Location: Chicago, IL
When this happened to me, it turned out that topping off the fluid was the cure. About the only issue I've had with my 200H - knock on wood. Other 'cures' I've heard are to give the pump housing itself, a few good whacks with a rubber mallet (I forget exactly why though :twisted: )

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