www.iFourWinns.com

OK, I've got a slightly silly question.

Can you change the sea water pump impeller with the boat in the water? I've got a 1997 Volvo 5.7Gi with SX drive. I have the workshop manual and know how to do it, I just want to make sure it is ok to take off the intake hose to the pump while in the water.

I got the quote of 2 hrs @ $100/hr plus parts and I'm ready to do this myself. I searched the forums and found most everyone else has come to the same conclusion.

I'm just trying to plan my spring launch procedures.

I changed vehicles over the winter and have to borrow or rent a truck to get from winter storage to the marina so I'm planning everything step by step.

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Terry
Current: 07 Crownline 255 CCR cuddy - 350 Mag MPI/B3 "Casi Cielo"

Previous:97 245 Sundowner 5.7GI/SX

Tow vehicle: 1986 GMC 2500 Camper Special 454/TH400

You can change the impeller with in the water. I've removed the hose from the housing, which is below the water line. Just to ready to plug the end of the hose with something and try holding it vertical, which for me on my boat got it raised above the water line.

But why bother if it's still on land. Much easier.

I don't bother removing the hose from the water pump housing anymore when I change the impellor; If I'd have to change the impellor on the water, I'd just use a pair of molegrips ( = visegrips) on the rubber hose with some plastic pieces to spread the load. Much quicker and you can do it before the water pump cover is removed.

Graham

Along the same lines, I need to do this in the spring also.

Problem is I managed to break the head off of one of the screws. (Boat is a 2000 248 Vista)

Any recommendations on how to get the screw out? I'm pretty sure its broken down far enough that I can't even get needle nose pliers on it.




Thanks

The head was damaged on one of the screws on mine; I eventually had to use a Dremel and grind the bolt head off ( they are only brass or bronze, so quite soft). Once the offending bolt head was off and the pump cover removed, the remains of the bolt was not particularly tight in the backplate.

If you mean your bolt has broken off flush with the baseplate, it may be quite loose. If it's seized, then you'll probably have to drill it out, initially with a small diameter drill bit; easier if the whole pump is removed from the engine.The heat from the drilling may be enough to un-seize it. You need to be really careful that the hole you drill is central, for fear of damaging the thread in the backplate.

I replaced all 4 bolts with greased up M5 stainless socket head bolts/ washers (and keep a few spare on the boat). They are much easier to fit/ remove than the original ones, as the Allen key locates positively in the bolt heads.

Graham

You can get a tool that is made for the purpose of removing a broken bolt or screw. They carry them individually or in sets at Sears, and I'm sure at other quality tool stores. It's called "EZ-Out". You drill a hole, then insert the tool, and use it on your drill in reverse.

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2008 Four Winns F224
5.0 Volvo Penta
Towing with Audi Q7 4.2 V8

The screw in question is only 5mm in diameter; I'd be very wary about using a screw extractor in a drill for such a small diameter screw. Too fast, it breaks and you've then got the problem of a snapped off hardened steel extractor to remove ( rather than a rather soft brass screw!)

Graham

When I changed out our impeller on our 248, I have yet to find a brass bolt on our 5.7L volvo motor. Every one I have work with has been SS. Granted, I have not touched every bolt on the motor, but raw water and main water pump I know are SS.

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2000 248 5.7L DP
'92, '94 SXI 750, '08 STX 15F, '12 Ultra LX 300
Videos

Interesting, the impeller housing screws on mine, which I know to be original, are brass. I've intended to change them to SS but haven't gotten a round tuit yet.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

Maybe I am wrong, but I just don't remember handling anything but SS.

The original ones on mine were definately brass ( or bronze); they were still covered with the thick red paint. That paint might have been part of the problem I had; the paint prevented a socket or screwdriver from locating well on them.

Graham

Regardless of the bolt material, I probably wouldn't use a power drill with an EZ-Out....I have always taken the manual approach when using EZ-Outs AND used a liberal amount of penetrating oil to help out.

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2002 Funship 214
VP 5.7 GX Si
2003 Tahoe