www.iFourWinns.com

I need a quick tutorial on how to remove the drive.... Specifically what to do with the wires, shift linkage, bellows and whatever else. I know there are several bolts to remove.
I want to replace the u-joints and inspect the bellows. Is there a gasket required between the drive and the transom assembly? ANybody have a exploded view or procedure from a manual?

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Marc, Kathlin & Nathalie


'89 Chaparral Laser 32

'93 Vista 245, 5.8L w/ King Cobra

Former Boats
'01 H260, 7.4 VP Duoprop
'98 H200, 5.0 GL w/VP SX drive

I've done it for a number of years now every season to check things out in the fall and lube the ujoints and splines and check for water in the bellows...I built a stand to hold it and that will save your back because they are heavy--if I recall right yours is a King Cobra cone clutch which is BIG compared to a plain Cobra...so make a stand (take a look in the I/O forum at iboats for some ideas...mine is there.....)
Then see if you can get a manual....best bet is ebay...the basic procedure is
throttle in neutral
put stand under the drive
loosen the 6 nuts that hold it on the pivot housing
remove on nut on the trim ram rod and push the rod through the drive to relase the rams...
them remove the nuts that hold on the drive...
pull back and hope it comes off...(it will if the driveshaft splines are not corroded in the coupler)
now there could be some differences because this procedure is for the plain dog clutch Cobra...
check out this link....does yours look like this?

http://www.dougrussell.com/partscatalog ... ,1586,1587

http://www.dougrussell.com/partscatalog ... ,1586,1587

this procedure is for the standard Cobra but its probably similar....

http://support.crowleymarine.com/entrie ... ve-removal

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Thanks Lou!

I actually want to pull the drive of my bowrider which is a Duoprop. I am surprised that more people here haven't replied. I knew you would come through though. I won't need the stand though I plan on using the pallet forks on my tractor!

Anybody else with a Duoprop have any suggestions.

_________________
Marc, Kathlin & Nathalie


'89 Chaparral Laser 32

'93 Vista 245, 5.8L w/ King Cobra

Former Boats
'01 H260, 7.4 VP Duoprop
'98 H200, 5.0 GL w/VP SX drive

Oh, I also assumed you were talking about the KC. On the DuoProp I haven't taken mine off myself, but I know there isn't a gasket (there is one between the transom and transom shield). Everyone who has done it says they're heavy, so be prepared for that. Take the props off first to reduce the weight and reduce the risk of anything happening to them. If I were doing it I'd also drain it first. I would expect to remove the 6 nuts and pretty much have it come off, other than possible bellows clamps. Not sure if care needs to be taken with trim sender wires.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

Check this one help it's got great pics

http://www.boatered.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=108297

As far as parts this is what I get every year when I pull my drive.

Gasket P# 3889788
Oring on Drive shaft x2 P# 3852565
These are both volvo part #.

Also replace the O'rings for the dip stick and gear lube drain and the vent if you remove any of them.

Should be a good start to the info your looking for
Mike

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2001 328 Vista "Nauta Dream 2"
AB Inflatable 10AL "Little Dreamer"
2000 248 Vista
1997 225 Sundowner


Mike

What gasket is that?

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

If you click the link I found and look at the the first pic. The gasket would go between the 2nd and 3rd bolt on the port side. Not exactly sure but I think it has to do with the raw water cooling....But not not 100% sure.

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2001 328 Vista "Nauta Dream 2"
AB Inflatable 10AL "Little Dreamer"
2000 248 Vista
1997 225 Sundowner


Mike

On my 2000 DPS, there are no gaskets, 2 o-rings.

You don't have to worry about the trim sender, that is not part of the drive you are dropping, it is part of the transom unit.

I would still think that a drive stand would be beneficial, as you may need casters that will allow to move stand side to side to get alignment when reinstalling as a fork lift or tractor may be hard to get in position.

here is mine.

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2000 248 5.7L DP
'92, '94 SXI 750, '08 STX 15F, '12 Ultra LX 300
Videos

On a 2001 drive SX/ DPS (actually 1999 on) , the trim ram rods are retained by E-clips, not nuts.

The seal is for the raw water inlet. It's meant to be glued in place in the groove; stops it slipping out of place un-noticed as the drive is refitted.

You'll also need to disengage the shift cable from the drive; it's retained with a split pin/ washer on the cube nut (shift adjustment is via this cube nut, which is threaded onto the shift cable). Use a new split pin on reasembly.

When the trim cylinders are disengaged, tie them up to support them/ avoid undue strain on their hoses.

Reassemble all metal to metal parts/ linkages and the trim cylinder rods with plenty of waterproof grease.

Ensure the driveshaft bellows is sitting correctly in it's groove in the tilt assembly. Apply a light coat of grease to it's face.

Lightly grease the end of the outdrive "nose"; sealing of the outdrive to the driveshaft bellows is attained by the "nose" being pushed into the end of the bellows as the 6 nuts are tightened.

Use molybdenum disulphide grease on the splines, engine oil on the 2 driveshaft O rings.
VP white sealing compound on the 6 studs, to prevent any corrosion seizing the drive in place.

Put the drive in gear; it allows you to move the propshafts; hence input shaft, to get the splines to line up.

The 6 nuts are tightened to 25 ft/lbs initially, then to 50 ft/ lbs. This is done in a criss cross pattern, starting with the centre ones (1 + 2).

Incidentally, U/Js are not available anymore from VP, only the whole driveshaft assembly (the fitting of which which requires partical outdrive dismantling and possible reshimming). 2 types of U/Js were used, which are not interchangeable; earlier ones used external C-clips on the bearing housing to retain them, later ones used internal circlips in the carrier/ shaft bores.The U/Js on mine (2004) are made by GKN but no part number is present, just "GKN" and "3D"; aftermarket ones may still be available.

Graham

Downloadable VP service manuals (engine and drive) can be found on the iBoats forums:
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?p=2360521#post2360521

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Terry
Current: 07 Crownline 255 CCR cuddy - 350 Mag MPI/B3 "Casi Cielo"

Previous:97 245 Sundowner 5.7GI/SX

Tow vehicle: 1986 GMC 2500 Camper Special 454/TH400

Thanks for all your responses... I have yet to pull the drive. I haven't had time yet but will be looking at all these posts when i do get around to it.

_________________
Marc, Kathlin & Nathalie


'89 Chaparral Laser 32

'93 Vista 245, 5.8L w/ King Cobra

Former Boats
'01 H260, 7.4 VP Duoprop
'98 H200, 5.0 GL w/VP SX drive

Here you go...

_________________


Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic