www.iFourWinns.com

My Merc switch was plug n play with my Volvo. Access was not even that bad. The OEM volvo switch will not work as a second trim switch unless you splice the wires as it does not allow it to operate both from the helm and the transom in the way it comes from the part supply store. Look back in this thread on page 7 for pictures. Note the Volvo has one round connector where the Mercury has two. Having the two allows both the helm and transom to plug into the harness and be used at either location with no wire splicing.

_________________
2010 Sea Hunt Triton 220 "Big Whiskey"
2003 FW Freedom 180 Volvo Penta 4.3GL/SX-M "It'll Do Four Now" (Sold)
2012 Avalanche LTZ 4X4

My OEM Volvo switch works perfectly at the transom with no affect on the helm control.

_________________


Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

These switches will all allow the system to work from the helm & transom as long as you follow one very important rule... don't have one person pressing UP and the helm while someone is pressing DOWN at the remote location... that's like pressing UP & DOWN at the same time and there's no telling what might happen but it can't be good for the trim pump and possibly could fry it if you held those buttons down... but, i mean come on... who is actually dumb enough to try this?

_________________
2007 FW Horizon 200 5.0GXi/SX-A

Mike - didn't you have to cut and splice some wires to make the Volvo switch work? I had the Volvo switch, but it only had one inline connector (round connector) so i returned it. The Mercury switch comes with two connectors so the helm control plugs into one and the transom into the other.

Go to page 7 of this thread which has pics of the Volvo switch (see the one clear connector) and Firecadet posted a picture of the mercury switch (it has two round connectors that are black).

The mercury switch on my boat required no wire splicing, just cut the hole in the transom, mount and make the connections which was all disconnect and re plug in.

Both switches will work, but I liked the plug and play of the mercury vs having to do splice some wires with the Volvo switch.

_________________
2010 Sea Hunt Triton 220 "Big Whiskey"
2003 FW Freedom 180 Volvo Penta 4.3GL/SX-M "It'll Do Four Now" (Sold)
2012 Avalanche LTZ 4X4

Oh yes, my switch did involve splicing; I read your statement as the Volvo switch just doesn't work. Since I didn't do the splicing myself, I was happy with it.

_________________


Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

FYI - In looking under my helm I noticed many more of the flat OMC style connectors like the one used for the OEM Tilt Trim on my boat. I'm now thinking FW, not Volvo, placed those connectors. The round style are more common, and may be the default Volvo tilt trim connectors. Hard to make a plug-n-play connection when the boat manufacturer flips back and forth to different connectors.

_________________
2007 Horizon 200
4.3L GXi/ SX 225 HP

Maybe I got lucky? If you look at my pictures on page 7 you can see the round connector that I plugged into with the transom mercury switch.

_________________
2010 Sea Hunt Triton 220 "Big Whiskey"
2003 FW Freedom 180 Volvo Penta 4.3GL/SX-M "It'll Do Four Now" (Sold)
2012 Avalanche LTZ 4X4

the more and more I think about it, I tend to agree... Four Winns has their own connectors with the red "lock" tabs that you have to slide to unlock before you can disconnect... I doubt it is possible to find a plug n play solution for these.... I recently changed my blower motor and it had the same red "lock" tab connectors... I had to cut and solder once again... the same blower was available at West Marine, but it doesn't come with a connector...

_________________
2007 FW Horizon 200 5.0GXi/SX-A

From what I can gather, the Volvo switch is designed for lower helm and flybridge helm installations, not transom installations. There is probably an additional extension harness they connect to that makes them "plug and play".

Graham

After reading all the posts I could get my hands on concerning a transom mounted trim switch, I have ordered and received the Merc switch with GM style (Metri Pack) three cavity terminals. After looking to confirm what type of connectors I have, I found that they are the Four Winns style with the red lock tabs. I don't want to use crimp splices for fear of breaking/cutting wires during crimping and the chance of water getting into the spliced area regardless of how much tape or shrink wrap I put on the connections. I ordered Metri Pack connectors from pcsconnectors.com for a little over $6 for male/female connector, male/female terminals, wire locks and seals. Shipping was more than the cost of the connectors by about a dollar, but I figure $14 for a plug and play, water resistant/proof? connection is worth the peace of mind of corrosion taking out the trim system on the lake and making it easier to raise/lower the outdrive so I don't drag it again..... (it was just a little drag at slow speed... )
I also bought a Irwin 3/4 inch auger bit for the installation of the switch. Not loking forward to breaching the hull, but I plan to put it in the same location that I saw on the FW website, on the transom to the left of the outdrive above the normal waterline, within arms reach when installing the drive supports for trailering. Will post pics when it is done.

_________________
Tanker Toad
NKAWTG..N!!
2008 H220 SS
2008 Chevy Silverado 4x4
2010 Tahoe LT 4x4

Tanker. Your install sounds more complicated than mine (plug and play for the most part on mine with zero splicing).

What I did was cut some blue painter tape the exact size of the trim switch and kept moving it around on the transom till I found the exact spot as I was afraid to make that hole. Once I had the spot and it was "perfect" I drilled the middle guide hole. At this point you are through. Keep the tape on the boat (I added extra incase it slipped) and then drill the size you need.

I love having the switch.

_________________
2010 Sea Hunt Triton 220 "Big Whiskey"
2003 FW Freedom 180 Volvo Penta 4.3GL/SX-M "It'll Do Four Now" (Sold)
2012 Avalanche LTZ 4X4

PDACPA - Thanks for bringing this thread back to the top, it's prompted me to get this mod done. Fire thanks for reposting the link I used it to order the Merc switch. I'm finally going to get this one done!

_________________
2008 H210SS VP 5.7 Gi/SX
2011 Ford F150 FX4 EB

I find it interesting that in over 20 years of boating I have only perhaps thought once that a transom mounted switch would be at all useful.

You have to go into the boat to disconnect/reconnect the battery anyway -- Why not just put the drive up or down then.

Yes --- I store my boat on a trailer with the drive down and the battery disconnected.

Dale -- west palm

_________________
DaleG -- West Palm Beach FL
2003 240Horizon -- 5.7Gi -Duoprop

Dale,

I guess I have never heard a good reason to disconnect the battery when storing the boat. I also utilize trailer clips that support the drive should a hydraulic line rupture on the drive home. With a transom trim switch I can reduce this operation to 1 person, instead of having my son trim up and down, smashing my fingers, while I install the clips.

_________________
Tanker Toad
NKAWTG..N!!
2008 H220 SS
2008 Chevy Silverado 4x4
2010 Tahoe LT 4x4

I do the same, especially when trailering on long trips. I also try to make it a habit to drain the drive after each use by lowering it while I'm running around doing other stuff and if I forget to put it back up after I get out of the boat it makes life much easier then. End of the season is the only time I turn my battery switch to off, when it's going to sit for months without use.

_________________
2008 H210SS VP 5.7 Gi/SX
2011 Ford F150 FX4 EB