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 Post subject: Surge brakes 2008 H210
PostPosted: Thu Aug 05, 2010 9:10 am 
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Goldfish

Joined: Fri May 21, 2010 12:36 pm
Posts: 33
So, similar to other posts, it seems like the brakes need adjusting on our trailer. They don't have nearly the stopping power they used to and our Jeep seems to be doing the lion's share of the work. I need to find some place to inspect / bleed / adjust them, but standard brake shops don't seem to be able to work on them. Any ideas where we could take the boat other than a FW dealer? They're a bit of a hike to get to from where we keep the boat.

Thanks!

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 05, 2010 9:46 am 
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230 Mike
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Joined: Mon May 15, 2006 7:59 pm
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Location: Kansas City, Table Rock Lake
Look for a trailer shop. Some areas have them, some don't. There's a good chance they just need bled and fresh fluid.

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2005 Four Winns 230/240
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 05, 2010 12:27 pm 
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Nauti Luv

Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2009 9:55 am
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Location: Little Elm - Lake Lewisville TX
In the Dallas area by chance?

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 05, 2010 1:21 pm 
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Goldfish

Joined: Fri May 21, 2010 12:36 pm
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Nope... Denver. And most "trailer shops" are on a 2-3 week timeframe apparently. Will lube up the mechanism and check that the brake fluid is full and hope for the best. Thanks, though.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 05, 2010 1:58 pm 
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230 Mike
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Bleeding your brakes isn't very hard to do if you're a little mechanically inclined. It's easier if you have a helper but isn't impossible to do alone. There are lots of online instructions for doing it.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 05, 2010 2:30 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 29, 2006 10:26 pm
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Location: Long Island NY
Keep in mind that if you have disc brakes (and you probably do) there is no adjustment, disc brakes are by design self adjusting. Drum brakes (what I have on the old 94 Load Rite) are adjustable. If you have a lack of braking action the things to check are fluid level and the mounting bolts for the calipers. The calipers must be able to float back and forth slightly and if the mounting bolts (which usually have an inner sleeve that can be lubed) are not lubed or getting sticky then they may not move enough to give full braking action. The other point is that if you have any air in the brake lines it will reduce your braking substantially. It is not hard to bleed the brakes if you go and buy a one man brake bleeder (I have one made by Lisle, it is a simple plastic cup with a lid and plastic lines attached). But if you had to bleed the brakes it is likely that there is a leak somewere which may be nothing more than a loose fitting that needs to be tightened. So in order of most likely faults, I'd look for leaks first and check the fluid level. If you find a leak then that has to be corrected (often can be done easily with a flare wrench so as to not strip the brake line fittings) and then the air needs to be bled out...

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 05, 2010 3:28 pm 
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Location: San Diego, CA
+1 on Lou's comments.

In addition:
Check for damaged/pinched brake lines. Mine had a pinched line and I was running with one brake for an unknown amount of time....

If you have a removable trailer tongue (and possibly regardless), check for quick disconnects and ensure that they have clipped together correctly to allow fluid to pass.

My guess is low fluid at some point leading to air in the lines. Pep Boys or any other auto shop will have inexpensive bleeder kits and it's a matter of pumping the fluid through the system one side at a time to displace any air. See your instruction manual for your brake actuator for instructions on this process.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 05, 2010 9:11 pm 
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
Also check for leaks on the brake lines - on mine one of the line connections was loose at a union (probably from the factory). Only noticed it by chance when I had it parked on my downhill street with the trailer constantly pushing on the actuator - tiny pool of fluid appeared on the road. Tightened up the loose fitting, checked all of the others and bled the brakes - good as new ever since.

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