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PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 9:35 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 17, 2008 3:55 pm
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Location: Cape Coral
The stereo setup memory power (the harness yellow wire) is looped to red (+12v) on my boat. It has always annoyed me that radio station presets, clock and setup options are lost whenever I switch the A/B switch to off.

I'm deep into the boat wiring now on a Volt/Amp panel meter project so I think I'll pull a wire directly to the house batteries and remove that irritation. Properly fused, is there any downside?

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 6:33 am 
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The only disadvantage is that it could kill your batteries after an extended period. I would recommend that you put a switch in the line and if you won't be on the boat for several weeks I would switch it off.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 7:58 am 
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Location: New Hampshire
As Marc noted, there is the possibility of eventual battery , ummm ... deadness. However, during the season, if you use the boat once in a while, you should be Ok. You could let a car sit for weeks if the only draw on the battery (one in good shape) was the radio memory. Of course, on today's cars, there is a lot more than just the radio drawing power when the vehicle is just sitting, so many will not sit for more than a couple weeks without drawing the battery down to under 50%.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 8:11 am 
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Location: Cape Coral
Good point. This boat enjoys shore power when it's in the lift, though, so the charger will normally always be on. Still, I suppose I can fuse the memory power line with a wall-mount AGC holder next to the A/B switch, so I can easily kill it if necessary.

Thanks.

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Cape Coral

'99 Four Winns 258 Vista
http://www.ustream.tv/channel/bowcam
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 10:19 am 
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Either way ..... you better put a fuse in that line!


Last edited by M3eater on Thu Sep 02, 2010 7:15 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 7:17 pm 
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Location: Cape Coral
M3eater wrote:
Either way ..... you better put a fuse in that line!


Yes, sir. The question is only whether the fuse is under the engine hatch with a switch in the line locker where the A/B switch is - or in the line locker wall, doubling as a switch.

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Cape Coral

'99 Four Winns 258 Vista
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http://www.ustream.tv/channel/cape-coral-marine-radio VHF
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 7:14 am 
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Location: New Hampshire
Well ... since you plan on switching the line anyway, you certainly could use a circuit-breaker/switch combo, in an accessible location. That way if it does blow for some reason, it is accessible. However, installing the fuse or breaker closest to the power source (battery, in this case) is the technically best location. This is so that more of the circuit is protected. If a fuse is installed right at the client (the powered accessory), you are not protecting any of the wiring from the power source up to that point. Therefore, if the power wire were to short for some reason, in an area that is between the power source and the fuse location, there would be no circuit cut-off (no fuse) to prevent a total melt-down ... and potentially catastrophic results.

The fuse only protects from its location to the client.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 8:13 am 
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Location: Cape Coral
I'll be taking power from the A/B switch post. There is 8Ga wiring from the house batteries to the switch and the batteries are each protected at the battery post with 30A breakers. The 10 feet or so of #12 to a post near the stereo will be after a small fuse at the A/B switch. That should do, I suspect.

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Cape Coral

'99 Four Winns 258 Vista
http://www.ustream.tv/channel/bowcam
http://www.ustream.tv/channel/cape-coral-marine-radio VHF
http://67.207.143.181/vlf9.m3u VLF: Lightning, spherics


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