www.iFourWinns.com

First off there is no simple winterization technique. It requires some expertise (amateur is OK) and a clear understanding of the purpose you are trying to achieve.

I am going to weigh in here with my thoughts...If you are not 100% positive about whether or not your motor is protected then either don't do it yourself or figure it out. Make sure you understand how your system works as a whole and what you are doing to protect it. Ask yourself if it makes sense..... Follow all the hoses and look for water traps (ie the oil coooler on the 7.4 Gi)

Marinas use the "suck up" method because it's fast and each marina has their own methodology PLUS they are insured if something happens to go wrong. You are not insured if you do it yourself. A new motor is very costly

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Marc, Kathlin & Nathalie


'89 Chaparral Laser 32

'93 Vista 245, 5.8L w/ King Cobra

Former Boats
'01 H260, 7.4 VP Duoprop
'98 H200, 5.0 GL w/VP SX drive

for what it's worth I used exactly 4 gallons on my 5.0 that's also taking into account that i left the plugs out of the block and manifolds to let some run out first before closing those off and filling all the way. my four winns shop were the ones who told me to pick up 4 while i was there getting other supplies.

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2006 Nissan Titan SE 6" Lift
2000 Four Winns 190 Horizon 5.0GL

Try The Winterizer
Expensive, but re-using your anti freeze each year would add up in only a few short years.

Sincerly, non affiliated , Cap'n Green

P.S., Note to millhaven-niceguy, there are plans to make your own "winterizer" on the site.

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One of 4 Previous (Sold) Boats:
2000 Four Winns 268 Vista

Current Boat: 2004 Chaparral 235 ssi cuddy

I looked at that thing, I can see how it would make it a lot easier, but here in salt water with the rust you get in the block, I don't know that it would work well..

As far as the way marinas do the winterizing, the techs know how to tell when the thermo opens, so do I (top of thermo housing gets warm and hoses to manifolds get warm) but the beginning winterizer may not and go by the temp gauge which can be misleading. A 160 stat STARTS to open at 160, if your gauge reads 160, it may have just started to open, not enough to let the raw water out of the block. My engine never gets above 160 or so idling on the water hose...

As far as the thermo housing having a bypass, yes it does but the function of it is to allow the water to bypass the block and exit through the exhaust manifolds. From my OMC manual "if this were not provided, the resulting water pressure would be enough to force the thermostat off its seat, resulting in a greatly increased warm period". When the thermo is closed, the water in the block just recirculates until the water gets hot enough to open the thermostat and that allows the raw water out of the block which then can be replaced by the incoming antifreeze...IF the thermo opens.....

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Thanks every, as the boat is stored in my garage I'II do as per LouC suggested (open the block drains and drain some of what comes out into a paper cup, then stick that in the freezer) and see if it freezes, that should give me some indication if I should drain it and start over.

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2005 Four Winns Horizon 190
2010 Toyota Highlander

I reviewed the site. It does seem awefully expensive for a bunch of garden fittings and a vaccuum pump You're right Cap'n I am always thinking of how I could "adapt" however I see how it would work for the risers since they are open to atmosphere but what harm are you doing to suck out the block afterall it is a closed system and you need air to replace the water that is displaced. I will stick with the "stand on your head and barely reach" method of manually draining each area.

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Marc, Kathlin & Nathalie


'89 Chaparral Laser 32

'93 Vista 245, 5.8L w/ King Cobra

Former Boats
'01 H260, 7.4 VP Duoprop
'98 H200, 5.0 GL w/VP SX drive

take a look at this thread on Iboats, it shows the cold and hot flow through the Merc style thermo housing with the separate outlets for the manifolds and risers....scroll down to posts #18 and 21...
this is different from the OMC/Volvo style stat housing where the manifolds always get water even when the engine is cold, but still you can see when the thermo is closed it does not let raw water out of the engine...

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=448042

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Thanks LouC, I did as you suggested (open the block drains and drain some of what comes out into a paper cup, then put in the freezer and the liquid froze rock hard. I guess now have to redo it and will follow your instruction.

Thanks a million, you saved me a bunch of dough in the spring.

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2005 Four Winns Horizon 190
2010 Toyota Highlander

Thanks, now I don't feel so bad about ranting and raving on this topic, and you saved your engine, great!!

So you see when your temp gauge says 160, that's normal operating temp, but that means that the thermo has just started to open, it does not fully open till it gets to about 175, and it probably won't get that hot, idling on the water hose, on a cool day, with 45* water running through it...so the thermo was mostly closed, kept the raw water in the block, and all the AF went out the exhaust and filled the manifolds.....

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II