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I want to install a clarion aft radio control on my 2007 H190. I'm wondering if anyone has done this, and it was it a difficult job. What is the easiest way to drill out a 4inch hole?
Any suggestion? roll:

Search "Walt's Mod's". It's in there. I have one stern and one bow.

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Walt B
"Debt-Charged"
Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
Missouri River; Kansas City, Mo.

I used a 5 inch hole saw to make 2 speaker holes and it worked very well, make sure you run your drill slow and in reverse (oposite of the cutting teeth side) this way you won't damage or chip the gel coat.

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Thank you
Denis

2007 H190 4.3 MPI
2010 Ford F150 FX4

First step is to make sure the area behind where you want to mount it has enough room. Room for the remote to fit all the way in and room for your hands to get to the back to tighten the mount.

As has been suggested, start the drilling with the hole saw backwards. This helps break the surface of the gelcoat with less chance of splitting. It also helps to use some tape. Blue painter's tape works nicely for this. Once you've cut into the gelcoat it's safe to use the drill in the proper direction. Just take care not to apply too much pressure. You want to let the saw cut through the material on it's own. Pressing on it too hard leads to the rear surface getting pushed out and splintering. Best to make as clean a hole as possible.

For added protection it's considered a good idea to use some marine epoxy to seal up the edges of the hole. This to prevent water from getting inside the layers of fiberglass and causing LOTS of other problems down the line. This is 'less important' when you're only dealing with a thin layer of just fiberglass. But if you're dealing with a hole that goes through wood in-between then it's a VERY GOOD IDEA to seal it up. Either way a small kit of marine epoxy and some time to apply it is a small price to pay considering the costs of repairs from water intrusion.

And if you use any caulk to seal up the remote be SURE to use the right kind. DO NOT USE 5200. 5200 is considered a non-removable adhesive, not a sealer. Use one of the removable kind (like 4200 or Life Caulk). This way if the remote dies you won't have to risk ruining the fiberglass to remove it. 5200 is great stuff, but not when it's used in the wrong applications.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

It is a very easy install. I cannot seem to find a picture of mine, but will take one tonight and post for you to see. Each remote radio control has a different shape and size. The instructions will tell you what size drill. I totally covered the gel coat in the blue painters tape after I determined the "exact" (read that has 1/2 hour thinking about how people get on and off the boat, where they sit and what looked best) location.

Drilled the hole, ran the wiring through and there is a plate that goes on the inside of the hole and two nuts secured it from the bolts sticking out of the back of the control. Snaked the wire up the starboard side and zip tied and plugged it in. The only issue I have had was it not lighting up at night. I tied it in with the stern light wiring. I have re-wired that, but I think it might be my ground.

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2010 Sea Hunt Triton 220 "Big Whiskey"
2003 FW Freedom 180 Volvo Penta 4.3GL/SX-M "It'll Do Four Now" (Sold)
2012 Avalanche LTZ 4X4