www.iFourWinns.com

Chrisvs, well put.

Cincy, you're higher input voltage theory is right-on and valid in only one scenario (that I can think of); an amplifier that does not have enough power or right at its limit to drive the sub or driver that it is connected too. the higher input signal will make your amp work at peak efficiency, giving you that last little bit of loudness (volume) before clipping and distortion is introduced by the amplifier over the lower voltage source.

If the amp has a reserve of wattage and amperage to drive its driver, then the difference in input voltage can be made up by the amplifiers (reserve) power, keeping the sound good, which would be impercievable to all the chicks partying on the swim platform.... That is until it you turn it up too loud and you start introducing distortion (either the high or low voltage input) by the drivers themselves.

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2009 H180 w/3.0 Merc
Homebuilt Minimax Hydro
2011 Zodiac Cadet 310

I can live with that explanation. Thanks.

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Former owner of:
1996 Four Winns Horizon 200 5.8L VP
2006 Four Winns Horizon 260 8.1L VP
2007 Sea Ray 290 Sundancer

Current boat
2004 Sea Ray 290 Sun Sport Twin 350 Mags

The higher voltage preouts should have no bearing on how loud your system plays because you should be adjusting the gain on your amplifier to match the input voltage.

As others have said in the thread, the higher voltage should provide a "cleaner" signal. However, on a boat, in that type of environment, it's a waste of money in my opinion. In our environment you do want some sound quality but volume is much more important.

When looking at a head unit, I'd look for the features you want as far as playable formats, number of preouts, built in x-overs, tuning settings, etc and whatever the preouts end up being, so be it. Just my opinion.

A little late to this party but the head unit recently just died in mine (M455 Clarion, 2006 vintage), it was working fine, then one day it shut off by itself and all the presets were cleared but it powered back on.

Then the next day it just wouldnt power up, tried resetting, power to both fuses, tried it on the bench - its dead. I do a lot of electronics work and it appears one of the 5V regulators died. Its such a PITA to take it apart to get to it, and the board is silicone coated and SMT its not worth the effort IMO. Plus I hated the thing anyhow, tiny little buttons for tuning and non-intuitive controls. Plus the helm remote was mounted in a pretty stupid place. But if I could have found one or a M475 I would have bought it, the remote leaves a nice 2" hole when you remove it and the newer remote cables have a couple more wires and are a pain to run.

I'm no audiophile on the boat so I just went with a cheap Jensen 3007 with a wireless, floating RF remote so I can adjust the volume or switch ipod tracks while being in the water (or anywhere near or on the boat). Even though its not compatible with the newer ipods/iphones I have an old 1st gen touch that works fine with it. Pretty easy job, speaker wire colors were the same and the harness had two plugs so I wired it up at home and just plugged it in. Sounds just as crappy as the Clarion but is a little easier to use for me.

Wireless remote is awesome too, until someone loses it

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2006 Vista 248 5.7DP - SOLD
2011 Crownline E6 - SOLD
2007 Sea Ray 260 Sundancer