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The transom shower on my boat is leaking. When I move the silver regulator handle to turn on the water, it leaks inside the bilge, probably at the regulator. The hose and it's sprayer seem fine, and do work. There are no leaks on the portion I can pull out of the boat. I'm hoping something as simple as a loose connection between the hose and the regulator. I can seem the water dripping from inside the engine compartment but I can't see the regulator and I can't reach it.

If I remove the power inlet panel in the same locker can I reach the bottom of the regulator?

My other choice is climb up and lay on the engines and see if I can reach the bottom of the regulator, this seems unlikely and I will break something. The last resort is the Bill Kearney documented removal of the storage compartment.

Any other ideas?

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2008 V358 Two-tone Blue V/P Dual Prop 320 HP
Lake Winnipesaukee, NH

yep remove the 4 screws that hold the jncoming shore power and ypu can gain access that way.

Cheeers

Sean
358V 2008

Yes, my thought was the shore power panel too. But I'm not sure how much slack exists in it's wiring. There's also the shore water hookup panel. That's caulked all around the edges but would come out without much trouble. That's going to have a Whale brand tubing connector that could be easily released. That might be a better option than the shore power panel.

I'd start by trying to get a look back up there to see which of the two has more slack. I've had luck with a mirror on a telescoping handle to see back up into areas like that. Still, prepare for it to be a cuss-like-mad hassle, and two days of Ibuprofen afterwards from all the contorting.

And of course you MUST make sure all AC power is disconnected if you're going to be working back there. As in, disconnect the shore power cable entirely.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

Thanks, Bill I already had the discussion with my wife about turning off the air conditioning while I "play around".

Are you saying that the starboard wall of the shore power locker is caulked in or just the actual shore water pressure reducer/connector? Looking at pictures, I don't think my arm could bend the right way if I had to go through the hole for the shore water.

As a last resort, does the floor of the starboard cockpit locker, under the seat come out by itself or do I have to do the whole disassembly that you did?

I'm heading up in the morning, hoping for a nice day or two before Irene hits. Actually hoping she turns east damn soon. Where not supposed to worry about hurricanes in NH.

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2008 V358 Two-tone Blue V/P Dual Prop 320 HP
Lake Winnipesaukee, NH

The floor is integral with the side portion of the panel, so the answer to your question is no. The whole thing has to come out. First take off the upright back seat cushion (the curved L portion along the starboard gunwale). Then remove the seat base, hinges and all. Then the screws around the inside of the locker. Then cut the caulk where it meets the engine compartment deck. This is at the forward end of the section, it's only a 1 or 2 inch section. I didn't cut mine and it came up fine with a bit of effort. Once it's out you might have better access down into the area for the transom shower connections.

This picture shows you don't get direct access: (I have inboard engines so your engine room will look slightly different down there)


But this might be easier to reach than through the other panels in the locker. I'm guessing you could lay down on the cockpit floor and lean your head down into the space to gain access to the shower. I'd bring along a heavy mover's or utility blanket to cushion yourself against the deck or engine. Suffice to say you'd probably want to do this when the engines have been cold for quite a while. The only part that gets ridiculously hot is the exhaust manifold itself, but it makes for an easier job retrieving dropped tools when the engine is cold.

As for caulk, I was talking about the seal around the shore water panel 'hose bib'. The squarish plastic panel that has the hose connection in it. I don't think the locker itself can be removed (at least not without pulling off the whole engine room deck!)

I'll be headed down for hurricane prep tomorrow. Mainly to take down the bimini canvas, foredeck cushions and to double-up the lines. The tide tends to rise quite a bit during storms like this so I'm going to make the lines tighter away from the pier, so the boat doesn't float over and down onto it.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

Well that has to be the easiest fix that I ever did. Finally got a few minutes without the AC on today.

Only four screws holding the power plug panel, once removed it has enough slack in the wire to push it to the side. There is a cable tie that cutting would give even more slack. I reached in, found the hose. The white sprayer hose was loose from the silver hose coming from the mixer handle. Couldn't pull it enough to see if but I could easily feel it. I tightened it up and no more leaks.

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2008 V358 Two-tone Blue V/P Dual Prop 320 HP
Lake Winnipesaukee, NH

Bravo! No doubt you saved yourself from paying a couple hundred having a dealer or mechanic do it.

And now the rest of us know how to get in there when we need it, thanks.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista