New Boat Questions

Boater83 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 09, 2012 12:36 pm

I recently purchased a 2001 Horizon 200 with a 5.0gl Volvo Penta engine. It came with a aluminum prop that is a little banged up. I am wondering if I should upgrade to a AL or SS Duoprop or just a normal SS. I really do not know what would be required to upgrade to either prop. I would appreciate any recommendations or suggestions. Also if you could include price estimates for the option you would recommend.

Thanks

St. Louis Dave · **Posted:** Fri Mar 09, 2012 12:46 pm

First, welcome!

Second where do you boat and where are you from?

It is easy to get a propeler (Alum or SS) reconditoned for less than a few hundred $. I would keep it for a spare if you upgrade to SS. Depending on your water and uses, Alum is fine. You will pick up some performance and maybe a MPH or two with SS. Stainless is going to be at least $300 to get in the game. Keep reading about props in the forums and you will learn more than what you ever wanted to know.

ric · **Posted:** Fri Mar 09, 2012 1:16 pm

Well, to upgrade to a duo prop setup, that costs around $9000 for the duo lower unit and props. It bolts right on, you can do it in your driveway in under an hour.

Before you purchase any prop, it's best to see what the boat does with the current one. Take it out on the water with just yourself, and give it full throttle. To make the motor last long you want it to redline no higher then 4800rpms. Moving pitch 1" either way is roughly 150-200 rpms difference lower or higher. Once you figure out what you need for a prop... stay the same or go up a few inches in pitch.. then really.. it's personal preference in SS or AL.

I personally like aluminum (Solas brand). Cheap, light, and almost no flex like SS due to their advanced casting methods. They cost $120 shipped and you can own 3 for the price of one SS. If you get real crafty, you can own a few in different pitches. A high pitch prop for long extended cruises, and one not as steep for tubing or wakeboarding. Takes literally 2 minutes to swap.

Boater83 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 09, 2012 2:00 pm

I am currently living in the twin cities area and plan on boating around the area on the local lakes and rivers. I was able to take it out on a test drive before I purchased it at the end of last season. The AL prop did perform well on the ride but I would like to have a backup prop in case something would take a chunk out of it since it is a little banged up already. I am looking for a prop to get a better hole shot as I plan on using the boat for water sports on a regular basis. Also I am wondering if you have any recommendations of tools or accessories to keep on board the boat(Tool Kit). I already have all the standard equipment required by law.

Thanks Again

ric · **Posted:** Fri Mar 09, 2012 2:40 pm

Better out of the hole you might be a candidate for a 4 blade prop.

I don't advice to get a pre-made tool "kit" in a fancy plastic case, they contain mostly filler. These are the tools I keep on my boat they've allowed me to fix virtually everything from tune ups to changing thermostat and power steering pump.

A 3/8 socket wrench and 1/4, 3/8, 7/16, 1/2, 9/16, 5/8 AND 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm normal sized sockets.
Spark plug socket
Short/long 3/8 socket extension
Combination wrenches same size
Philips, straight blade screw driver
Needle nose pliers
Crescent wrench
Floating prop wrench and a spare cotter pin if you carry a spare prop
Spare navigation bulbs if you have incandescent fixtures
Wire stripper/crimper with some butt connectors. A few spare feet of 18 gauge wire. Electrical tape.
A fuse kit.
Tube of RTV silicone gasket.
BoatUS membership with Unlimited towing package.

Sounds like a lot, but sans the prop wrench it all fits in a little bag. Don't spend $$$$ on tools, they rust or fall overboard. I like the Craftsman Evolv series. Dirt cheap and still lifetime replacement but you need to keep the receipt.

Also things like Dist cap might take a 1/4 socket screwdriver type tool as the standard socket wrench won't fit. Some are just philips head. Check.

Paul I. · **Posted:** Fri Mar 09, 2012 3:38 pm

Hi & welcome!!

As a new boater, I would go with AL. Stainless will do better in overall, because it is harder & will flex less. This also goes back to, if you hit rock or anything in the water. The Al prop will give more were the stainless will not, and that "shock" will go back to the drive and could cause damage. Go with the AL, less possible damage to the drive.

After a few years of boating, than go with SS. You will know how to "read" the water, were to go, and were not to go.

As for tools, Ric's list is a good start! From there, you will learn what to carry & what not too. I would add a voltmeter, and depending on the waters your in, I would add a GPS, VHF, and fishfinder.

Obie · **Posted:** Fri Mar 09, 2012 4:32 pm

A prop that is "a little banged up" is going to waste fuel, cause noise and vibration, accelerate bearing wear, and decrease top speed. If it was my boat I would have the existing prop in for repairs before running the boat. Then evaluate the performance of the repaired propeller. The prop shop can tell you the actual prop pitch (which may have been changed by previous owner). If the boat running at wide open throttle (WOT) can reach an RPM between the minimum and maximum recommended by the engine manufacturer, then the pitch is correct. I like stainless steel because the blades keep their shape better than aluminum under load and are quieter.

PDACPA · **Posted:** Fri Mar 09, 2012 5:52 pm

Add to Rick's list of tools and stuff to have on board a bunch of blade fuses 5 - 25. I carry multiples of all sizes as sometimes a short will pop the new one the second you put it in.

Boat US or Seatow membership with the unlimted tow. Buying just the BOAT US membership does not get you the unlimited tow. I think I paid $179 and it includes boat towing and trailer. AAA will not cover anything but the vehicle you are driving.

(don't ask how I know these things :mrgreen:

)

ric · **Posted:** Fri Mar 09, 2012 6:06 pm

Seatow/Boatus requires all of Florida to get the fresh/salt water package which is $125/yr. Unlimited great lakes and everywhere else in the inland USA is $35/yr. :evil:

Never say never either, my father has used his 2 years ago. Out in the bay, wind dies with water saturated diesel. A potential REALLY bad day turned into a VHF call and more beer drinking with his women folks until the tow boat came.

PDACPA · **Posted:** Fri Mar 09, 2012 6:35 pm

Wow the lakes are cheaper! That is really reasonable.

Mine is higher because our use is always in the gulf and ICW and I also added the trailer coverage (lost a trailer wheel doing 60 on the highway) and we trailer it down to the lower Keys for mini season.

TX H210SS · **Joined:** Thu May 27, 2010 9:10 am **Posts:** 1488

9k for a duo prop conversion is high.....regardless its not something to consider if the boat didn't coe with it....the ss props come with hubs that will fail before the spindle..some of the older style ss props had no hub bushings...in other words ...normally if u hit something the hub bushing will fail first..as for r switch..the size and pitch that orig came with boat will be r best all round performer....research that model. U got a good motor and rig setup...u can walk in to prop shop and get core value for r al prop and get a rebuilt one...no waiting.....run the size and pitch in al and se if u like...then get a ss of same pitch and use the al for spare....around 125 for al and 275 to 300 for ss.

Boater83 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 26, 2012 3:32 pm

I have looked at some of the props and I think I will take Rick's suggestion and go with an AL prop with 4 blades for a better hole shot. According to what I found this prop matches the manufacturers original specs except the diameter is a 1/4 inch off. I am just wondering if I have found a good price for this prop, and If this prop will be right for my boat. Also will I need any other parts to install this prop?

http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/sola ... uctId/5991

Thanks

hutch9900 · **Joined:** Tue Mar 22, 2011 7:14 pm **Posts:** 456

Quote:

I have looked at some of the props and I think I will take Rick's suggestion and go with an AL prop with 4 blades for a better hole shot. According to what I found this prop matches the manufacturers original specs except the diameter is a 1/4 inch off. I am just wondering if I have found a good price for this prop, and If this prop will be right for my boat. Also will I need any other parts to install this prop?

http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/sola ... uctId/5991

I am fairly new to boating and I am looking for a replacement 4 blade prop as well for my 5.0l MPI. I have found http://www.iboats.com to have a slightly better price for this. I would not advise the Solas Amita as from what I am seeing it does not have the removable/replaceable hub, could be wrong though. The Solas Rubex seems like a better deal for $15 more and has the rubber hub instert with washer and nut that are needed. Check it out, I have read the reviews on these, havent seen a bad review yet for them.

hutch9900 · **Joined:** Tue Mar 22, 2011 7:14 pm **Posts:** 456

http://boatpropellers.iboats.com/Mercru ... (All_Years)_19.00-Pitch_RUBEX_4_9513-143-19_Propeller/767/20507/?cart_id=575480094 link for the Rubex 4 blade 19 pitch aluminum. It is $130 plus shiping and includes all washers and nut. See what you think.

Cap'n Morgan · **Posted:** Tue Mar 27, 2012 6:52 am

Solas props are made from a lower grade aluminum alloy. It's cheaper for their Tiawanese supplier to use that alloy, and thus the lower price for their props. I would avoid their props unless you just use it as a spare. Look for the equvalent 4 blade aluminum in a Vortex with the XHS exchangeable hub system. It's a much better choice.

www.iFourWinns.com

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