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PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 9:58 am 
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Location: Winthrop, Ma.
Graham R wrote:
Paul I. wrote:
I changed my wheel out 2 weeks ago on a V258 "07". If you remove the center cover of the hub, there is one nut. I think it was 3/4" on a shaft with 2 key slots. It took a gear puller to remove it. BUT yes, my fault, you could remove the 6 small bolts that hold the wheel on to the hub too. In my case, I had to remove the hub.


As a matter of interest, I looked up the steering parts on the FW website. It seems from 2001 onwards they swapped between splined and tapered hubs on models where tilt steering was fitted, listing and presumably fitting both types for some years. By 2007 they were back on taper only Some wheels are actually listed as being splined, even though the wheel is removeable from the hub ! Why they didn't always just standardize on one type of hub and bolt all the different wheels onto a common hub, who knows ?? Nothing surprises me about the way boats are built anymore !


Good to know!
Thanks


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 10:21 am 
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Location: Michigan
Paul I. wrote:
I changed my wheel out 2 weeks ago on a V258 "07". If you remove the center cover of the hub, there is one nut. I think it was 3/4" on a shaft with 2 key slots. It took a gear puller to remove it. BUT yes, my fault, you could remove the 6 small bolts that hold the wheel on to the hub too. In my case, I had to remove the hub.


Thanks. I will try the 6 bolts first.
I still haven't gotten to the steering wheel yet. Was too busy fighting with the horn last Sunday. :evil:

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 1:51 pm 
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JeffLW wrote:
Paul I. wrote:
I changed my wheel out 2 weeks ago on a V258 "07". If you remove the center cover of the hub, there is one nut. I think it was 3/4" on a shaft with 2 key slots. It took a gear puller to remove it. BUT yes, my fault, you could remove the 6 small bolts that hold the wheel on to the hub too. In my case, I had to remove the hub.


Thanks. I will try the 6 bolts first.
I still haven't gotten to the steering wheel yet. Was too busy fighting with the horn last Sunday. :evil:


Give the rubber mallet a try and whack it a couple of times it worked for mine...


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 2:12 pm 
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Location: Austin, TX
Loosen the bolt that's holding the hub on to where it's a loose fit, barely touching. Whack the nut/spline with a metal hammer once or twice. Not too hard to break anything, but hard enough. Should come right off because something with science and it being tapered.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 4:04 pm 
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ric wrote:
Loosen the bolt that's holding the hub on to where it's a loose fit, barely touching. Whack the nut/spline with a metal hammer once or twice. Not too hard to break anything, but hard enough. Should come right off because something with science and it being tapered.


No, don't hit it with a metal hammer. If those threads get crossed, god help you! A gear puller is your best option, because you are not putting stress on anything else. I rubber hammer could work, it just depend on how tight yours is.


Last edited by Paul I. on Wed Jun 13, 2012 7:52 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 4:13 pm 
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Location: Chester, UK
Paul I. wrote:
ric wrote:
Loosen the bolt that's holding the hub on to where it's a loose fit, barely touching. Whack the nut/spline with a metal hammer once or twice. Not too hard to break anything, but hard enough. Should come right off because something with science and it being tapered.


No, don't hit it with a metal hammer. If those threads get crossed, god help you! A gear puller is your best option, because you are not putting stress on anything else. I rubber hammer could work, it just depend on how tight your is.



...........and if there's any corrosion of the hub there, it will be etremely tight; the metal oxides have a bigger volume than the metal they are derived from.


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