www.iFourWinns.com

Has anyone installed the Volvo Neutra-Salt flushing system? How does it work? Any problems? Is it worth the $$?
Any thoughts would be appreciated....thanks, Steve

_________________
"For My 50th"
1996 238 Vista
5.7VolvoGL DP
Previous boats; 91 Cobia 19' Cuddy, 87 Starcraft 16' BR,
67 Winner BR, 65 Arrow 14'

There's a T-piece inserted just prior to the fluid cooler on the transom. A solenoid valve betweeen the T-piece and the reservoir opens when the dash switch is pressed. The solution is sucked in to the incoming water, not injected in as such. From my experience with Neutrasalt it works well ( 2 years on previous boat, on my 8th Season with it on our current boat,cast iron risers removed after 7th season and found to be virtually as new internally). Some things to bear in mind;

"Things" like to grow in the Neutrasalt liquid, forming a black slime that eventually blocks the outlet and filter. The filter cannot be dismantled, small disposable automotive petrol fuel filters with a clear plastic case are a cheap alternative. DON'T use the petrol filters with a glass tube body and replaceable filters designed for outboards; the diecast body either corrodes and/ or reacts with the Neutrasalt solution forming a gel . !I also put a few drops of disinfectant in the solution, which keeps the slime largely at bay !

The solenoid valve on the previous one failed, or at least the plunger didn't seat back properly in the closed position. The whole contents of the container had disappeared by the next time I used the boat ( that stuff is not cheap !). It might have been contamination; the early kits had no filter. As a precaution though, I have fitted a small manual ball valve between the container and filter.

"Things" like to grow in the Neutrasalt liquid, forming a black slime that eventually blocks the outlet and filter. The filter cannot be dismantled, small disposable automotive petrol fuel filters with a clear plastic case are a cheap alternative.

Thanks for the insight! So you're saying that this system has an external filter that will clog? And just to use an in-line auto fuel filter instead?
What about winterizing? Do I need to somehow bypass the Neutra Salt resevoir outlet line? Or can I just back-fill my block with anti-freeze the way I do now after I drain the water out?

thanks again for your help.....I picked up a brand new unit on ebay for about $100 US....not bad I think..

_________________
"For My 50th"
1996 238 Vista
5.7VolvoGL DP
Previous boats; 91 Cobia 19' Cuddy, 87 Starcraft 16' BR,
67 Winner BR, 65 Arrow 14'

The standard filter, at least on mine dating from 2005 had a grey or black body. It was impossible to tell whether the filter was blocked or not, The automotive ones with the pleated filter element and clear plastic body make it easy to see if they are starting to get blocked. They are also very cheap, the equivalent of a couple of dollars at most even in the UK ! ( I didn't price up a VP one, I'm sure it would not have been cheaper !).

I've never done anything with the Neutrasalt system for winterizing; it's isolated from the engine when the solenoid valve is closed. However, I do keep the engine compartment at around 4- 5 deg. C though, using tube heaters and a thermostat.

I imagine the solution can freeze, I don't know at what temperature that happens. I can't see it damaging the solenoid valve or hoses as there's so little volume of solution in there, the filter maybe. The reservoir is vented but presumable if it's very full and freezes a lot of pressure could develop and split it. If in doubt, drain it out !

You can drain. back fill with antifreeze as normal, the solenoid valve will stop any back flow into the Neutrasalt reservoir.

Thank you Graham for the insights. I ordered a "new" one from ebay--it did not come with installation instructions. I checked the Volvo web site but could not find any installation instruction there either. It looks pretty straight forward to install, though....so that brass "t" goes on the water intake hose BEFORE it gets to the cooler that's mounted on the rear of the motor, correct? I just slice open that hose and clamp in the brass "t". For power, I have a POS & NEG cable and I can go right to the battery, right? There's a fuse on the POS cable built in. The solenoid and reservoir are simple to mount, and the switch will go right in the dash where I have an ACC space already waiting......I'll try it soon....

Steve

_________________
"For My 50th"
1996 238 Vista
5.7VolvoGL DP
Previous boats; 91 Cobia 19' Cuddy, 87 Starcraft 16' BR,
67 Winner BR, 65 Arrow 14'

The hose from the transom goes onto the T piece, The kit comes with a short length of hose that fits between the cooler inlet and the other end of the T piece.

As to wiring it, yes, you could connect the fused wire to the battery, but then the wire would have to go all the way forward to the switch at the helm and back again to the transom. It's better to find a spare terminal on the fusebox at the helm so you keep cable runs as short as possible. Either using the supplied fuse/ fuseholder, or adding a fuse for the fusebox terminal if there isn't an appropriate one there. The -ve wire can go onto a block ground stud.

Oh that makes sense to wire it that way, of course.....yeah, I'm missing that short piece of hose adapter to the cooler.....suppose I can just cut a short length from an old hose or something to splice in......

_________________
"For My 50th"
1996 238 Vista
5.7VolvoGL DP
Previous boats; 91 Cobia 19' Cuddy, 87 Starcraft 16' BR,
67 Winner BR, 65 Arrow 14'

I hope so; there are 2 versions of that T piece; one's for a 1" ID hose and another one for 1-1/4" hose ! From memory, the VP hose is 1-1/4".