Graham R wrote:
I've found this type work well in plywood and fibreglass; very easy to screw in using an allen key/ hex driver and the thin flange makes them screw in almost flush to the surface ( and makes the installation look tidy). The coarse external thread spreads the load well.
http://www.theinsertcompany.com/steel_hex_drive_inserts_for_wood_headed.shtmlNice, those are basically the same thing I used except for the Allen recess, the ones I used had a slot for a large screwdriver. I have a right angle ratcheting screwdriver that I used to put em in.
Where you have access to the rear of the panel, these pronged T nuts work well for plywood and Starboard ( but not fibreglass)
http://www.theinsertcompany.com/steel_t_nut_inserts_for_wood.shtmlGraham
FW and other boat companies should hire
US to design their engine compartments, that would help them keep customers and mechanics as well......
As far as them listening to customers, I looked at the vid for the new 180 I/O, another nasty cramped engine hole, that will make a starter change, or oil filter change (if not remote mounted) a pain in the posterior. All so we can have a nice walk through and fancy folding seats. Who gives a crap about that, when you can reach a damn thing? When they go back to a full width style engine compartment, with engine stringers not right next to the starter, and easily removed interior panels then I'll feel that they listened. We did a better job with our boats and we're not (at least I'm not) an engineer but do have some mechanical common sense based on 40 years of mechanical maintenance......
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