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PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 3:38 pm 
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Location: Austin, TX
SXA outdrive. The water pickup connection in the leg where the view port is... broke, so it's picking up from the upper hole not the lower one in the bottom of the leg and it will run hot when on plane (fine on idle).
Is there a way to fix/replace that broken connection without taking the whole damn thing apart? Im thinking maybe it's accessible from the cover but it's time to head to a super bowl party and no further time to diagnose today

Maybe it's covered by the warranty? ill call tomorrow

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Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2013 11:06 am 
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WELL off to the dealer it goes. Hopefully it's warranty work. If not, it picked a bad time to break... I recently quit my job to start my own venture. Got tired of working for someone that fucks everything up. It's not like I don't have money saved but I'm just starting to get contracts signed and been without income for a month and I don't want to touch my savings!

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1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold

Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2013 1:43 pm 
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It's a $4 part and SUPER pain in the ass to take out/install. Gotta tilt the drive up and to the starboard side and attempt to get the old broken plastic thing out and screw new one in. Oh and in the process of inspecting the water pickup, the plastic speedo pitot nipple broke off, which is also inside the front side of the drive. So no more speedo for me.

VOLVO!! Why do you use cheap ass plastic parts when they should be metal?!!?!?!

Edit: I just got a call from a buddy that's an aircraft mechanic. He said he should be able to find something in metal that will work and never break again. The dealership said they break every year or 2 because the plastic gets brittle and as soon as you lift the drive it breaks off. It's their most common part they fix on boats with SX-A drives, so much so that they can't even hold one in stock.

Part #9
Image

_________________
1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold

Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2013 2:29 pm 
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Location: Ohio
ric wrote:
WELL off to the dealer it goes. Hopefully it's warranty work. If not, it picked a bad time to break... I recently quit my job to start my own venture. Got tired of working for someone that fucks everything up. It's not like I don't have money saved but I'm just starting to get contracts signed and been without income for a month and I don't want to touch my savings!


What makes you think the new boss will be better than the old one?


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 9:43 am 
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Location: Chester, UK
ric wrote:
It's a $4 part and SUPER pain in the ass to take out/install.
VOLVO!! Why do you use cheap ass plastic parts when they should be metal?!!?!?!Edit: I just got a call from a buddy that's an aircraft mechanic. He said he should be able to find something in metal that will work and never break again. The dealership said they break every year or 2 because the plastic gets brittle and as soon as you lift the drive it breaks off. It's their most common part they fix on boats with SX-A drives, so much so that they can't even hold one in stock.

Part #9
Image


Ric,

The earlier SX drive also used a "plastic" part for that application; it's held in place with a plastic nut, rather than being screwed into the tilt housing. I've never heard of one breaking on the SX. That nut on mine has never come loose. I think ithe failure is probably because they didn't design the later plastic part properly ( or the hole it screws into !) My guess is that the plastic part becomes slightly loose due to creep, then each each time the drive is tilted up or down it's flexed with most of the strain at the point where it enters the tapped hole, which ulimately results in fatigue failure.

Or, maybe they are overtightened which results in deformation and reduced resisance to fatigue.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 11:23 am 
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I'm going to attempt to get what's left of out of the drive today and visit a plumbing store, I'm bound to find something out of brass. I'm not going to rely the safety of my boat on a $4 plastic piece that WILL break again.

_________________
1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold

Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 2:23 pm 
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Found the problem. Made in USA.

Image

Don't mind the broken threads that happened taking it out. It sheered off. Off to plumbing stores to find a metal replacement

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1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold

Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 4:23 pm 
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Location: Chester, UK
ric wrote:
Found the problem. Made in USA.

Image

Don't mind the broken threads that happened taking it out. It sheered off. Off to plumbing stores to find a metal replacement


After seeing the thickness in that area, there can't have been any sort of decent radius in the transition from the thread; a classic design mistake for "plastics"; even if it was made in metal ( another "plastic"!) it would have eventually failed by the same mechanism.

Graham


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 5:09 pm 
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I tried every custom hose/plumbing shop in Orlando. Nothing close. I'll have to order a plastic one and give it to my buddy who's an airplane mechanic to get one machined out of aluminum.

_________________
1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold

Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 5:32 pm 
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The wall thickness and maximum possible radius is too small, I was making a metal replacement I'd be tempted to machine out the thread in the tilt housing and make the tube wall thicker and make it longer, with a nut to hold it in place. there is an "O" ring there and as the hose is clamped to the fitting it can't rotate anyhow.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2013 6:39 pm 
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WELL.

I got the part, but now I need to make a special took to screw it in LOL

_________________
1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold

Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


Top
 Profile  
 
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