www.iFourWinns.com

I'll do what you suggested first Dan. I think ...hope the transom seal is the issue. Do you think it has done damage as the boat has only been in the water once since it was worked on last, second time for minutes. I've have pulled the bottom small bellow, haven't pulled the large one yet, is there a third one up higher? It there some kind of gasket between the transom ?


I want to thank everyone for all the help you have given me already. I'll get it one way or another.....I'm starting to get used to standing on my head and working on it.


Here is what I got when i filled the bilge Dan. Water only ran out the one side so I am assuming I can tighten it all up. Is that a bandaid, I would really like to fix it right no matter what. Should I pull the outdrive and inspect?


image by rick2752, on Flickr

_________________

2001 Four Winns Vista 248 by rick2752, on Flickr

I hope thats the transom seal too. Whoa.

If you havent pulled the outdrive for the season yet, I would do it anyway just to be safe.

_________________
1997 Four Winns Vista 278
T - 4.3l EFI
Kohler 4esz Genset
379 hours as of 8/8/21

I would be looking to remove the gimble ring and check for a wet transom if there is wood before anything else.Or use a meter designed for this purpose. Then get a new gasket. What ever route you take is going to be labor intensive

I would pull the out drive and inspect. With the outdrive off you have access to the u-joint bellows. Inspect everything carefully. If you can get your hands on a good moisture meter, check the transom. This will tell you how wet it is. There are some great resources available on this site. Perhaps after the weekend they will have some ideas. You may also want to post on Iboats.com. There are several similar repair projects which are documented on their board.
I am almost sure that your long term repair will involve engine removal as the y pipe blocks access to the middle nuts which hold the transom bracket on.

_________________

Current Boat: 1994 278 Four Winns Vista

Have you hit bottom or had any trailer mishaps lately?? Might want to think hard and call your insurance co.

_________________
1997 Four Winns Vista 278
T - 4.3l EFI
Kohler 4esz Genset
379 hours as of 8/8/21

Pulling the drive will tell you if water is getting in the bellows, but that's a totally different kind of leak in the pic. I would try tightening all the bolts you can reach, nothing to lose by doing that. If it still leaks then it's time to pull the motor, and check the transom for rot. The best way to fix this is (adds one step but worth it):
Pull drive, motor and transom mount. Inspect transom wood coring. Take a good look a the Y pipe too. If the transom is no good, get a 'glass shop to do it for you. Its a big job and not that easy to get right. Make sure that the wood opening for the drive, is completely sealed. Then reinstall the transom mount. Next install the drive. Put in the plug and back the boat in the water with the engine still out. Climb in the engine compartment and look all around at the Y pipe, and inner transom mount. Let it sit in the water for a while. If there is any leak you will see it then.

Doing it that way you have to install the drive 2x but its easy and worth it to know you have no leaks.

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

I used to get zero water in the bilge of my 1999 225 Sundowner; absolutely nothing. My later "improved" 2004 245 model is another matter. I reduced the gross water ingress from the obvious design flaws, but I have never been able to completely eliminate water ingress into the bilge ( after 8 years of trying!).

So apparently salt water leaked into the the transom shield and corroded the transom studs. They corroded and as the material corroded it swelled. Around a couple of studs it was probably 3/8ths high holding itself off the transom. Here is a pic of no motor , And the corroded transom.


[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/waytekwire.com/IMAGES/M37/items/37701FL.GIF37701**
/8930637407/]image[/url] by rick2752, on Flickr


image by rick2752, on Flickr

_________________

2001 Four Winns Vista 248 by rick2752, on Flickr

Well that's it right there. One good thing is that salt water does not rot transoms, but was that boat used more in salt or fresh water?

Mine has been moored in salt water for 6 months out of the year for over 10 seasons worth.

If the transom's not rotted, let it all dry out and then coat the wood opening with epoxy resin and also coat the inside of the holes for the studs that the transom mounts to.

Can the corrosion on the transom mount be removed and the aluminum be re-finished? We have to do this with outdrives all the time in salt water if the boat is moored or docked.

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Lou, what is the process to refinish the aluminum. I cleaned the corrosion off, I was gonna do some searching for a neutralizer today. I was thinking I could just spray down with some type of chemical and then repaint. Is there something special you guys use or a process to repaint. The boat had been stored since 2011 no water at all, and it spent the summers on cape cod. The transom looks fine ill try to snap some pics of it tonight. Question now is at this point what all do I replace while the motor is out. Motor really surprised me, it came out in less than 2 hrs. I wonder what the shop would charge for this job.

_________________

2001 Four Winns Vista 248 by rick2752, on Flickr

It's a multi step process. Take a look at www.boatered.com and in the engines forum there is a post by geebee that explains it well. What I usually do is sand with 80 grit, wash with solvent then vinegar (neutralizer) and then prime with Interlux Primcon or you can use zinc chromate primer and paint. I use the Primocron because we have to use antifouling paint in salt water.

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Wow you got that engine out in a hurry. Around here $1,200 to $1,500 in and out.
Painting aluminum surfaces that will be under water. Zinc chromate primer, epoxy barrier coat which will seal out the water and stop electrolysis, then top coat. This is my two cents worth.
You asked what else to check. Bilge pump and switch in excellent condition, no easier time. Gimbal bearing spin freely? Stringers sound solid? Any through the hull Transducers? Take a good look. Best of luck. Glad you found the problem.

_________________

Current Boat: 1994 278 Four Winns Vista

I told my wife I just saved us about 3k, but she is used to me doing everything so she expects it...lol. After I took the outdrive off motor was out in about 2 hrs. Exhaust boots were a pain but everything else was pretty easy. It helps having a beam you can back under and hoist off of. I just replaced bilge float while motor was in. Everything else looks good...might as well change the oil while its in the air. My plan is to strip the aluminum and pitting as best I can with wire wheel and any other tool I can round up, then wipe down with vinegar. I bought a can of zinc chromate primer, about 3 or 4 thin coats of it, then the volvo epoxy silver paint. I bought a tube of life caulk o seal the transom plywood edges and a new seal.....total cost......drum roll......55 dollars and a whole lot of time so far.

_________________

2001 Four Winns Vista 248 by rick2752, on Flickr

For the plywood edge of the transom opening mix up a bit of epoxy and coat it in resin, epoxy is water proof and will protect the wood the best. Also coat the holes that the transom mount studs pass through in the transom. I'd replace that transom seal as well. Take a good look at the Y pipe to make sure the sealing area is in good shape. While you got the motor out, take a good look at the oil pan check for rust/or leaky pan gasket main seals. Also look at the splines on the coupler, are they good and straight and not getting rounded off? Spray the oil pan with Corrosion X HD. Look at all the freeze plugs in the block/heads, replace any that look questionable.

You really did get that engine out fast. Nice work!

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II