Need source for Manifolds / Risers / Circulating Pump

rpengr · **Posted:** Sun Jul 28, 2013 12:07 pm

I am looking for a good source for Minifolds & Risers. Also a Circulating pump. I would like to order on Monday, and receive before Friday, so something in the South East could be preffered.

I have had the horizon for 1 year, So I started doing the following tasks.
1. Took out the rear bench seat to get full access to the engine (I will post pictures later)
2. Removed raw water pump, and I am rebuilding it with new SST bearing and seal (I will post pictures of that later)
3. I think I should change the Circulating pump because it is 13 years old...no problems with it yet, but I have easy access with the bench seat out.
4. I took the manifolds off to inspect. I think they are original 13 years old, but only saw salt the last 3 years. Both manifolds look reasonably good and flow water perfectly. One riser looked pretty good, but the other had some chunks of rust blocking part of the slots.
5. Removed the spark plugs, and they all look the same. Nice golden brown color, and some wear. Will replace plugs. (Will do compression check and record results)
6. Will Change Engine Oil & Filter
7. Will change Fuel Filter
8. Will R & R drive and change drive oil

Regarding the Manifolds/Riser: (sorry, I know this has been covered before, but can be hard to find)
What brands are recommended, and best for the money?
Are any brands not-recommended?
I could get the SST Hi-Tech's from Australia for $2000, but I don't think I can budget that, and delivery would be long.
Any reason I couldn't just change the risers now, and get a couple more years out of the manifolds?

Ray

LouC · **Posted:** Sun Jul 28, 2013 1:30 pm

Just went thru some of the same stuff after my massive overheat. I checked the manifolds with my IR temp gun waiting for BoatvTow US (excellent service btw). 375*F!!!
In wanted to check for cracks and did it the way shown on Iboats where you fill em with acetone. Acetone has much less serfsce tension than water and it will find any small leak/ crack. You can't get these 1 piece manifolds anymore and these were only used 2 seasons so I was glad they were not cracked. You could check yours the same way but the other issue is the sealing surface for the riser gasket. If this is eroded I'd change em even if they don't leak internally. Any rust trails in the manifold ports that match up with the cyl head, or in the head exhaust ports itself? That's a sure sign of heeding replacement. For aftermarket I'd use Barr or Osco. Not GLM heard that the machining on them
is not good. I want to see if I can adapt Merc dry joint manifolds when I need my next set

rpengr · **Posted:** Sun Jul 28, 2013 1:42 pm

What's your favorite source (for best price and delivery)? Wholesale Marine.com? MarinePartsExpress.com? VolvoPentaStore? EbasicPower.com?

My Gasket Flanges are seem very good considering the age. I will try to clean them up with a flat sharpening stone or similar and take pictures later.

Graham R · **Posted:** Sun Jul 28, 2013 4:32 pm

I feel guilty; I threw away two 2005 risers 3 months ago that'd been used with the Neutrasalt system from new. Very minimal corrosion as far as I could see, but I got 2 new VP risers on Ebay for a price I couldn't pass up on. I don't intend to hang on to the current boat for much longer, so it's a peace of mind sort of thing.

rpengr · **Posted:** Sun Jul 28, 2013 4:32 pm

Here are photos of my manifolds and elbows as removed. I'm not sure what they used for a gasket, but there was a lot of silver residue that I scraped off both surfaces, as well as a thin metallic gasket.

Note: The manifolds were not running hot. I took them off to inspect because boat is 13 years old and I am fairly certain these are the originals.

I am wondering if I can get another year or two out of these, or possibly change just the risers for now. The manifolds do not have any flow restrictions. Opinions?

Port Riser as removed

Port Manifold, still on engine

Port Manifold, as removed

Starboard Manifold, as removed

This was the worst looking riser (starboard side), however, those rust chuncks cleaned out.

This is the manifolds with the gasket residue still on them

This is a manifolds and riser after clearing loose rust and sanding the flanges with a flat block. The other set looks about the same.

Graham R · **Posted:** Sun Jul 28, 2013 4:40 pm

The "silver" type material is actually graphite ( the gasket is a steel carrier with graphite foil on each side; I can bore you for many hours about how the graphite foil and gaskets are made, if you like !). You need to scrape it all away to get an idea of how wide the sealing face in on the cast iron parts. To be honest, they look pretty good.

rpengr · **Posted:** Sun Jul 28, 2013 4:46 pm

Graham R wrote:

The "silver" type material is actually graphite ( the gasket is a steel carrier with graphite foil on each side; I can bore you for many hours about how the graphite foil and gaskets are made, if you like !). You need to scrape it all away to get an idea of how wide the sealing face in on the cast iron parts. To be honest, they look pretty good.

Yes, It seemed like lead or graphite. The last picture is with all the graphite removed, and the surface sanded with a flat sanding block.

I think I could get another 2 years out of them, but I am open to opinions...sure don't want to leak into the engine.

Graham R · **Posted:** Sun Jul 28, 2013 5:00 pm

The latest advice from VP is to use a copper containing gasket adhesive as well. The ones they recommend are not available in Europe . I can't remember what they recommend, I can let you know tomorrow ( I'm going to bed now; a 10 day period of looking after two 85 year old in laws, one with Alzheimers and ill has had it's toll on me !)

LouC · **Posted:** Sun Jul 28, 2013 7:07 pm

The part you are most concerned with is the section between the water passage and the exhaust gas passage. I'd maybe hit it with a belt sander to see how it cleans up.

Graham R · **Posted:** Mon Jul 29, 2013 5:49 am

Graham R wrote:

The latest advice from VP is to use a copper containing gasket adhesive as well. The ones they recommend are not available in Europe . I can't remember what they recommend, I can let you know tomorrow )

Service bulletion 25-1 16 01
Dated 04- 2010

Coat the manifold and riser mating surfaces with a copper based heat resistant gasket compound
e.g.

Permatex Copper Spray-a-Gasket (80697)
K&W Copper Coat (401612)

I couldn't get either of these in Europe, so I used "VHT High Temperature Copper Gasket Cement".

rpengr · **Posted:** Mon Jul 29, 2013 6:18 am

Yes, thank you. I have a can of the Permatex Copper Spray-a-gasket for the gaskets.

Looks like ebasicpower.com is the closest discount marine for me in the South-East (they are North Carolina).
They have an aftermarket circulating water pump with brass impeller for $84.95 p/n MPR2232MN. Has anyone ever used one of these circulating waterpumps? (I am raw water cooled)

They also have a complete manifold set with gaskets for $599 + $59 shipping (Oslo/Barr), but I think I will wait longer before changing the manifolds/risers.

My Raw Water Pump rebuild, including changing bearing and seal, can be seen here:
http://www.smwebhead.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=12060

LouC · **Posted:** Mon Jul 29, 2013 9:33 am

I used an aftermarket Sierra circulating pump on my 4.3, the OE one lasted over 20 years so if the bearing on yours is not rough or getting noisy and it has not leaked water it might still be good. The Sierra one seems fine too. My old one started making a rumbling noise that's why I had to replace it.

rpengr · **Posted:** Mon Jul 29, 2013 12:02 pm

LouC wrote:

I used an aftermarket Sierra circulating pump on my 4.3, the OE one lasted over 20 years so if the bearing on yours is not rough or getting noisy and it has not leaked water it might still be good. The Sierra one seems fine too. My old one started making a rumbling noise that's why I had to replace it.

I had just ordered a New Pump from eBasicPower.com:
http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/p/MPR2232MN/
$85 + $12 shipping. New, not rebuild, USA made with brass impeller.

There was nothing wrong with the old one, but since I have the bench seat and bulkhead removed, I thought maybe I should do it now as a precaution. Not sure, but I thought my previous boat needed a circ pump at about 15 years.

Regarding the manifolds and risers, I think I will use these for another year or two.

Ray

Toddely · **Posted:** Tue Jul 30, 2013 1:41 pm

Ray Check out this website , it has manifolds and risers , ect. I didnt think they were too bad in price. see what you think.
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/

rpengr · **Posted:** Tue Aug 06, 2013 1:50 pm

rpengr wrote:

Regarding the manifolds and risers, I think I will use these for another year or two.Ray

I chickened out and changed my mind. When putting the manifolds back on, I noticed some rust around exhaust ports $4 & 6 (Starboard middle). So I have a new set of Manifolds, Risers, and Gaskets coming tomorrow from ebasicpower.com (NC). $599 + $69 shipping and Handling

Lots of room to work with Sunsport Seating removed.

Rebuilt raw-waterpump and new circulating pump in place. No Leaks.

www.iFourWinns.com

Need source for Manifolds / Risers / Circulating Pump

Who is online