www.iFourWinns.com

Yep I though of that Bill but the flange on those P/S coolers is just wide enough to accommodate one normal size clamp. Just use the box end to snug it down a bit more than you can with a screwdriver, not a dying strain. And then try to twist the to make sure its really on there.
The gas tank fill on my boat, on the tank end is double clamped. And every few years its a good idea to check all those too.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

OK, a little follow up....
Replaced both burnt up flappers and all the rubber hoses (they were really OK but still 25 years old).
Removed drive, cleaned bits of burn flappers out of exhaust passage.
Split drive again, checked water tube seals, they were fine. Water tube guide (plastic piece that guides the water tube down when putting drive back together) was a bit melted, replaced that. Put drive back together and reinstalled.
Tested exhaust manifolds for cracks by filling with acetone no leaks. Hooked up garden hose to manifolds ran them for a while no water in exhaust ports.
Reinstalled whole exhaust system.
Replaced starter old one had rusty salt water in it.
Wired up an emergency bilge pump with alligator clips, 2000 GPH Rule I can drop in the bilge and hook right to battery, in addition to the normal 1100 GPH one.
Ran engine on the hose numerous times, no sign of water in the oil.
Did a compression test today, results are basically the same as I found 3 years ago...all above 165, highest was 180 lowest a little over 165. No water came out of plug holes while cranking engine for compression test.
Going to put the back seats back in and put in the water this week and see what happens. On the hose it runs and sounds like it always has.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Good deal, sounds like you dodged a bullet.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

Lou, All I can say is "Your the man". You just made it sound so easy and quick to just tear the boat down and check it all and put it right back together. I am learning , I am learning.
Thanks for sharing all your knowledge.

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1997 Horizon RS 180
5.7 GL Volvo Penta /SX drive. (1.60)
2018 Ford F-150 super crew 4x4

Thanks, this work is not really complex as long as you have the right information (factory shop manual from OMC is very good). The hardest part of it is bending your body into tight spots to get at things. Anything on the rear of an I/O engine can be tough to reach. So I have to take out the rear seats/bulkheads and then it's not too bad. The newer ones with all that molded in 'glass around the engine, well if I had to have one of those I'd take it to
my glass guy and have him make it removable. Otherwise it would be tough. The old boats are easier.

This is why I rant and rave about what I feel is bad design throughout the boating industry. It isn't harder/more expensive to make it easier for mechanics. When you make it hard, people get overcharged for easy jobs and they get turned off and get out of boating. The boat companies are hurting themselves, because like I said good design is not more expensive. Let a mechanic of 10 years+ design the rear end of these I/O boats. You will see lightweight seats that fold out of the way, with quick release mounts and removable bulkheads such as I made for my boat. Still looking for lighter bench seats though. Might have to design my own.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

I need to get me a manual for my boat, Mines a 97 so I think actually a Volvo Penta manual not the Omc. Gonna pick me one up. You know the best place to order one? Thanks

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1997 Horizon RS 180
5.7 GL Volvo Penta /SX drive. (1.60)
2018 Ford F-150 super crew 4x4

In those years the OMC and Volvo products were pretty much identical. I've seen both OMC and Volvo manuals and the OMC ones are better, the Volvo manuals still read like a European car manual translated into somewhat imperfect English.
If I recall right if you look on iboats there may be some on line ones posted somewhere...(volvo i/o forum?)
For a paper copy contact a local dealer and see if they can order it for you. That's how I got the one for my OMC. It's saved me thousands over the years (think I paid $45 for it or so).

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

I bought my OMC manual at MarineEngine.com in Vermont. For Volvo, the link is http://www.marineengine.com/manuals/volvo/index.html. For OMC, http://www.marineengine.com/manuals/omc_sterndrive/index.html. I have heard that the SELOC and others are not nearly as complete or thorough. Like the Chilton ones for automotive, mostly there, but not original. Prices are reasonable and they ship quickly.

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1988 215 Sundowner 5.7L OMC

Ok put the boat back in and tested it out a bit. First I ran the engine at 3000 rpm in neutral tied up to the mooring and watched that hose that popped off the p/s cooler. Looked normal, no pulsating or flexing. Temp, oil pressure normal. Took it out on Northport Bay and ran it on plane for about 10 min or so and temp and oil pressure normal. Checked oil on stick and took off fill cap all looked normal. So far so good.
Hope you all... Checked your hoses........

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

I did, and tightened everything just to make sure. Glad you are back out on the water and everything turned out OK.

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1988 215 Sundowner 5.7L OMC