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PostPosted: Sat Aug 24, 2013 4:11 pm 
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Minnow

Joined: Wed Sep 12, 2012 5:45 am
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Location: Derry, NH
I just noticed today that when I leave my drive up it ends up going back down with in a few hours. So slow that I can't notice by looking at it. Has anyone had the same problem?


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 24, 2013 4:51 pm 
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230 Mike
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Many people have. Just do a search for it, there are lots of threads.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 24, 2013 8:41 pm 
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Minnow

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230 Mike wrote:
Many people have. Just do a search for it, there are lots of threads.

Thanks, sometimes the obvious has to be mentioned...


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 24, 2013 9:01 pm 
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Minnow

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230 Mike wrote:
Many people have. Just do a search for it, there are lots of threads.


All I found is from MAy 2009 when you advised someone to take their boat to the dealer...
Also someone suggested it was a cylinder or a trim valve.
Now what and where are the trim valves and how hard is it to change?
Also how can you tell if its a cylinder or a check valve?


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 25, 2013 2:44 am 
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230 Mike
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My apologies, I thought several others had posted with the same problem. I must be thinking of a different forum.

Is this a Volvo? If so (may be the same for Merc but I'm not sure), assuming your "rams" (hydraulic actuators) nor hose fittings are visibly leaking, the culprit is most likely to be the check valve inside the pump assembly. This diagram is probably not exactly a match for your unit but should give you an idea of what we're talking about (see index #42):

Image

That's from http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/vol ... 10430.aspx.

Some pumps have two check valves, high and low pressure. In this case I assume it would be the high pressure one leaking. Most folks will replace the whole pump to fix it ($$$$), but in reality I believe you can repair it if you can track down the parts. I don't know if it would be the ball, spring, seat, or all 3 that you'd need. I haven't had this problem (yet), so I'm afraid that's about as far as I can take it.

You might consider adding your boat, engine, and drive details to your signature, it can really help people get a head start on what the problem might be, when you have one.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 25, 2013 5:44 am 
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Minnow

Joined: Wed Sep 12, 2012 5:45 am
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Location: Derry, NH
Thanks Mike, no wonder why people buy the whole pump. Very intimidating to take apart to repair unless you have done it many times.
So many little parts. :shock:


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 25, 2013 7:25 am 
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Mike, I remember that discussion too...

In case they help at all:

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=11143&p=105848&hilit=+check+valve+drive+ram#p105848

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3396&p=33833&hilit=+check+valve+drive+ram#p33833

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 25, 2013 6:47 pm 
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Minnow

Joined: Wed Sep 12, 2012 5:45 am
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Location: Derry, NH
schoolsOut wrote:



Thanks for the links...

I have a 1990 200Horizon 302 v8 with a cobra outdrive...


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 11:08 am 
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Tadpole

Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2014 10:44 am
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Or you can use the low-tech (and much cheaper) method I use for the same problem. I got some PVC pipe with an inside diameter slightly larger than the inner ram(?), cut a slot lengthwise the same size as the ram (actually slightly smaller so it's a little snug and stays on) and to length 1/2" shorter than the exposed (shiny part. Told you I was low-tech) ram. I slip it on at the end of the day, and the next day I just raise the outdrive that 1/2" and slip it off. For trailering I have two slightly shorter pieces to keep the load on the tilt system balanced.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 3:43 pm 
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Location: West Palm Beach, FL
It is not necessarily at the pump...

If either Ram Cylinder has a leak past it's internal O-ring (which is on the 'head' of the piston rod), then it can slowly leak down, and there is no external leakage. It will leak down even if only one cylinder has a bad O-ring, because they are plumbed in parallel.

Not too hard of a DIY job if you can obtain (or make) a spanner wrench to disassemble the Ram Cylinder. Or you can take it to a local hydraulics shop. The O-rings are all standard $1 parts.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 6:41 pm 
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My SX Drive occasionally does this, too.
I find that if I cycle the trim up & down 3-5 times, the issue goes away for another couple months. :wink:

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 7:17 pm 
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Somewhere in a manual somewhere it states that when you lift or lower the drive to never just trim it all the way. You're supposed to back it off to keep from damaging the value and causing this issue.

Example: Lower drive all the way down until it doesn't go anymore. Now hit the up button for half a second to get the pressure off the valve. Same when you lift it, just in reverse.

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Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2014 3:03 am 
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ric wrote:
Somewhere in a manual somewhere it states that when you lift or lower the drive to never just trim it all the way. You're supposed to back it off to keep from damaging the value and causing this issue.

Example: Lower drive all the way down until it doesn't go anymore. Now hit the up button for half a second to get the pressure off the valve. Same when you lift it, just in reverse.


MMM learn some thing new I did.....

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2014 9:54 am 
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Tadpole

Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2014 10:44 am
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ric wrote:
Somewhere in a manual somewhere it states that when you lift or lower the drive to never just trim it all the way. You're supposed to back it off to keep from damaging the value and causing this issue.

Example: Lower drive all the way down until it doesn't go anymore. Now hit the up button for half a second to get the pressure off the valve. Same when you lift it, just in reverse.


Good information. Didn't know that, but do it most of the time anyway. It'll be all the time now.


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