www.iFourWinns.com

First off, allow me to introduce myself. I am a new four winns owner (new boat owner too).

Bought this boat off my boss back in July. Excellent rough water boat btw.

I bought the boat knowing the motor knocks. I got an excellent deal so the knocking didn't concern me too much. I just had a guy look at it and tell me it's "low" in the motor and the motor will likely blow at some point (duh, don't they all?).

I have a few questions:

1. Will any other damage occur if I run this current 5.8L Ford till it blows (why fix it of it still works is my thinking, or rather why not wait till the thing tanks completely). I am referring to damage outside the motor. Shoot a rod through the hull or something, I don't know...

2. Where can I buy a replacement motor other than the local dealer (they mark these things up to mars)?

3. Where can I access the bilge pump (it needs replaced and frankly I feel like I need to clean the bilge out)?

I used to work on aircraft so learning about this stuff and being mechanically inclined to do this myself will save me a lot of coin.

So its got a rod knocking...not good and its time will not be long. Yes, a rod failure can sling that thing through the block or pan. No need to wait til that happens.

There are several places to buy a remanufactured marine motor that comes with a warranty. I got a 5.7 for my prior boat that wasn't too bad...around 1k I believe. I got mine from firstmate marine, but there are several reputable companies out there. First mate required and affidavit and checklist be completed by a certified tech before enacting the warranty.

My mechanic works from his house and was certified, so wasn't an issue.

As I said though, I wouldnt wait for total failure. I don't know for sure but an engine coming to an instant stop at high rpm couldn't be good for your drive system either. That would be ungodly to replace.

The knock is from slack at junction with piston or crank...that has caused parts to fly through hoods of cars or downward through oil pan...or out side of block.

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http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o71 ... wqm355.jpg


08' H210SS
VP 5.7Gi

I don't know where you do your boating but I would not take a boat out that I knew had an engine problem. Getting stuck can be dangerous, if the weather turns bad or the water gets rough. It's a nice boat put a new long block in it and enjoy safe boating.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

+1 to both of these. Engine failure in a boat has the potential to be costly, both with actual money and your safety. Like Lou said, change out the block and enjoy the boat, thats a great year for FW's, but you can say I'm a little biased...

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1996 205 Sundowner DLX
5.0FL Volvo SX Cobra
Tow Veh: 2012 Nissan Frontier Pro-4X

Ford 351 marine longblocks are cheap, it's the same engine found in any ford pickup truck from the late 80s/early 90s. Buddy just replaced his in an old Malibu ski boat, minus the labor the engine itself was under a grand with a 1 year warranty from a local reputable remanufactured engine dealer.

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1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold
Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread

Really appreciate the advice!

I have a local mechanic down at my inlaws on lake of the ozarks that quoted me $1500 in labor...how does that compares to your experiences.

And could you folks give me recommendations for new/rebuilt 5.8L V8s? The dealer down there is telling me $3k - $4k....and I know I can get a motor for better than half that.

Thanks a ton!

Try some of the local parts places (AutoZone, O'Reilly's, NAPA, etc) sometimes they have good deals on long blocks. Remember though, you need to save the "marine" parts from the original engine to swap onto the new. The block itself is the same as a car engine, but the electrical/fuel systems are marine rated to prevent spark/fire/kaboom.

Also, to answer one of your other questions, the bilge pump should be located on a small raised platform under the engine. Your gonna have to remove the engine box/doghouse to get at it. 2 screws hold the pump down.

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1996 205 Sundowner DLX
5.0FL Volvo SX Cobra
Tow Veh: 2012 Nissan Frontier Pro-4X

$1500 in labor sounds correct. Engine? $1500 all day long
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-5-8-351W-P ... 3a7812ac8a

3-4k including engine installed at a dealer would be correct out the door.

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1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold
Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread

There is also a large risk of fire if a rod goes through a block/ pan!

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2011 Four Winns H180 SS.
Aussie built Mustang 2800.
SOLD - 1997 Four Winns Horizon RS

Also, if you grenade the old engine, it's no longer rebuildable. You will then have to eat a core charge of several hundred.

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07 Azure AZ200,
Previous boat,
95 278 Vista,
And a lot of others.

Ontario, Canada

What does this mean?

Do I get some money back for my old engine?

Thanks

It means, if you blow up the current engine, most likely it wont be rebuildable. If its not rebuildable, the rebuilder will have to get a rebuildable engine block and pass the cost along to you.

Bottom line is, have this noise diagnosed properly and take the proper action. I can't tell you how many times I've heard engines that sounded like a rod wanted to be set free yet it ended up being loose flywheel bolts.

I suggest having an oil analysis done.

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07 Azure AZ200,
Previous boat,
95 278 Vista,
And a lot of others.

Ontario, Canada

Excellent!

Here's another - I've heard some banter regarding the 5.8L Ford. This knocking issue is what they're known for.

Are these newer rebuilt/remfg. fords built better, less prone to the knock?

Could you guys provide some links to some engine manufacturers?

Thanks!

I have a 5.8l and it doesn't knock. Pull your engine out and rebuild it if you have the time. I built mine and was in it about $2500 and that included pistons, manifold, carb, distributor. machine work, gasket and ring kit etc. Like stated above don't run it- fix it before it costs more.

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'96 200 Horizon 5.8l VP/SX

This route is looking more and more intriguing.

I have never worked on a car or boat engine, however, I was a helicopter mechanic for 5 years in the Navy. My mechanical skill level, I would say, is good.

I have been pondering - what do I need to do in the instance I buy a motor from these guys?

Is there a print manual that can guide me with exploded views and IPBs (illustrated parts breakdowns) through the process of switching all the marine parts over to the new motor?

I have a 3rd car garage and my boat is in covered and enclosed storage - this could be an excellent winter project.